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I have noticed my BANKS engine oil temp gauge reading 240-280
The guage reads 170 to the far left and through 240 in the safe green operatine range, going 240 and about in yellow and 320 at the very right RED
I usually just view the gauge but have never seen it reach this temp.
Anybody have a engine oil temp gauge and know the normal operating range?
thanks
bob
My EVO II reads Oil Temp off the PCM. With the stock stat it read 190F at unloaded freeway speeds. With the 203 stat it reads 205 to 215 depending on speed/grade.
I sure hope your gauge is broken or reading incorrectly.
I am thinking that the gauge sender may be at fault.
I am going to look at it more closely tomorrow and check for continuity.
I think Banks should be able to send me a new sender FREE, I should still have my warranty and reciepts
Have you changed your Thermostat lately, if so, Did you get the long shaft, the incorrect Thermostat (short shaft) does crazy things, it lets the water take the shortest path of resistance, To keep this short, It will not send coolant to the back 6 cyls and cause lots of HEAT damage!
Rich
I did the 203* T-stat many months ago.
This temp issue is with the oil not water temp
I am going to change my oil soon and see if that makes a difference
If you bought your thermostat from a diesel site then I doubt this is your problme, but just in case, here is more info on how it could effect your oil temps!
The thermostat in the Powerstroke not only controls operating temperatures, but properly directs the flow of coolant through the engine. As the thermostat opens, it proportionally closes the bypass. With the thermostat fully open, the bypass is mostly closed, and vice versa. With the International (Pre-96 Ford) thermostat, this cannot be controlled properly because of the shorter bypass stem. The shorter stem of the IH(pre-96 Ford) thermostat allows the thermostat to be fully open while the bypass is fully open. This means the coolant can travel in any direction available -- whatever direction it chooses. It can either travel through the radiator or simply make the shorter, less restrictive path back through the front of the engine. This will cause uncontrolled overheating in the back cylinders of the block, with absolutely no signs of danger showing on the water temperature gauge in the cab. It is possible that the back of the engine can have no coolant flow at all yet the thermometer in the outlet of the water pump shows all to be normal. Multiple things can happen at this point. Cylinders can seize, freeze plugs can fall out and other normal symptoms of an overheating engine may occur. Worst case is a blown motor and it won't be covered under warranty.
My problem IS NOT water/coolant temp rising to unsafe temps.
My 203* T-stat is working well and I have not had any issues with even the temp getting above 210*
My problem is ENGINE OIL TEMP rising into a caution zone
YOUR not reading what I am trying to tell you, your WATER temps will appear normal!!! APPEAR Normal is the word. Read the post! Or dont! Your seem to be having ABNORMAL high OIL TEMPS, Read the post or go to the dieselsite.com site and read it for yourself! OR DONT>
This means the coolant can travel in any direction available -- whatever direction it chooses. It can either travel through the radiator or simply make the shorter, less restrictive path back through the front of the engine. This will cause uncontrolled overheating in the back cylinders of the block, with absolutely no signs of danger showing on the water temperature gauge in the cab. oil temps will be HIGH!
Last edited by 15 and 92 Dad; Jul 28, 2007 at 06:06 AM.
Yea Toyota, If you are not 100% sure that is a long stem 203* thermostat get it out quik. Like 15 has said a short stem Tstat will allow coolant to return to the block without going through the radiator and will cause overheating in the back of the block. since oil is also used for cooling this will increase your oil temp without increasing coolant temp noticeably unless you also have an aftermarket coolant temp gauge.
Where do you have the sender located? Easiest test for the sender is to pull it and stick it in boiling water and see what it reads.
Any chance of that diverter valve coming off of that long stem thermostat and causing the symptoms 15 and 92 Dad are writing about?
I have to second the recommendation that you remove the thermostate to verify proper operation. 4 gallons of antifreeze are a LOT cheaper to replace than overheated engine repair. Even if it's eight gallons of Evans.
sorry for not understanding the correlation between the water/coolant and oil temp
I was not aware they could affect one another.
I bought the 203* T-stat and new short billet T-stat housing from Dieselsite almost a year ago with no issues till now.
I tried to reach Ron at HMP, but they are out of the shop this weekend.
sorry for not understanding the correlation between the water/coolant and oil temp
I was not aware they could affect one another.
I bought the 203* T-stat and new short billet T-stat housing from Dieselsite almost a year ago with no issues till now.
I tried to reach Ron at HMP, but they are out of the shop this weekend.
No problem !! I just wanted you to be aware of what the problem COULD be, but since you bought it from the diesel site and didnt have any problems after installing it some time ago then I doubt that the T-stat is your problem.
Good Luck
Rich
I def appreciate all input, I just am upset with myself for not keeping a better eye on this gauge and remembering if this temp is normal or just something that just started happening.
I am curious to know if anyone is running a BANKS or Autometer engine oil temp gauge and can tell me what their readings are like after about an hour of driving.
I am def going to change my oil and filter, get a sample to BLACKSTONE and see if their is any sign of abnormal degration, compared to my other samples.
...My problem is ENGINE OIL TEMP rising into a caution zone...I am curious to know if anyone is running a BANKS or Autometer engine oil temp gauge and can tell me what their readings are like after about an hour of driving....
The pic shows where my engine oil temp sender is located. The manual that came with my Banks Stinger system says that the max reading is 250 F. Running empty on an 80 F day at 65 mph (2000 rpm with my 4.10 diff swap in a SRW) I read about 200 F. If (as I've done for an experiment) I shift to 3rd and run for awhile at 65 mph (2850 rpm) the temp goes up to about 230 F, which tells me that the HPOP heats the oil a lot more at higher rpm, everything else being equal. The highest I've seen is about 240 F when towing my 14 K 5er up a long grade in 3rd, maybe hitting 245 F at the top.