I'm rebuilding a '92 F-150 flareside with a 5.0L 302 in it. I have a couple of questions I figured I would bring to you guys:

First, I'm considering some 2nd gen Lightning wheels. I'm not sure which style I will go with, but will all of them bolt up to my '92? I've seen a few with these wheels so I assume so.

Also, since I am rebuilding the 302, I figured I might try and get a little extra power out of it. I have seen a few people switch their cams to those out of a 5.0 mustang. Does this increase power? Lastly, as far as intake manifolds go, can a 5.0 mustang manifold bolt up to my truck 5.0?

Thanks for any help guys.

 

Yep. No problem there.

I would avoid the mustang cams. There are a lot better off the shelf grinds and custom grinds that will develop much better low end torque than the stang bump sticks. If you can find a MAF unit for your build, the possibilities are endless for the power increases. If you plan to stick with the Speed density computer, theres a few cams that work well with those computers. I'm sure someone here will chime in with the exact grind number.

Yes it can. But you will certainly lose some low end torque to sacrifice some high end horsepower. You need all the low end grunt the 5.0 produces to keep that 5000lb truck moving. The stock 5.0 intake is not a bottleneck on the system until you have major camshaft, exhaust, and cylinder head upgrades. As a matter of fact, it flows rather well out of the box. If you plan on improving your cylinder heads, the lower truck intake can be ported and matched. Also, a larger throttle body can also be matched to the upper plenum. I did this to my rig, over installing the mustang intake. I've seen the stang intakes on trucks before. They pull real hard...but only after 3000 rpm.

DO NOT just throw on a larger TB with a mild rebuild. You will actually lose power. Only consider that upgrade AFTER you've improved the cylinder heads, added an aggressive cam, upgraded to a MAF system, and considered some long tube headers.

If your motor can't spit any more air out, it won't help to increase the flow in.

Hope this helps...and again this is just my opinion from the work I've done on my own rig.

Good Luck,
Mike

 

A lot of people think that the mustang parts will make their vehicle go fast, cause the mustang is fast. Those parts are designed for a different engine, and different vehicle.

We are driving trucks do not forget. We need a different powerband then a lightweight car.

 

Oh, I wasn't thinking mustang parts would make my truck faster because they are from a mustang. I actually have an '03 GT with a 4.6. I am building this truck so be a reliable fun street truck so I can have some down time on my mustang to build a turbo kit for it. My main reasoning for asking the intake question was because I actually have an old B&M 144 blower sitting around with no use. I figured I might can get a lower manifold for it and put it on the truck! I'll have to see about that.

Also, what all would it require to swap to a MAF? I'm not to familiar with the speed density computer. What size MAF is best to run? Shoot, I've even though about swapping to a carb set up, but I figure it would take away some reliability, which is why I need the truck. If I do the MAF swap, what kind of cams are you guys seeing good results from?

As for exhaust, I'm considering some long tubes, but where can I get some that fit? I found this website but it seems too god to be true...
http://www.carpartswholesale.com/cpw...my=1&make_code=

Thanks for all the tremendous help so far guys. I appreciate it.

 

Bump for MAF swap. Is there a "How-to" on swapping to a MAF set-up?

 

Do a search. It's been discussed MANY times here before. IMO it's better to run the SD computer and use a progamming software and laptop like Tweecer. The MAF computer has a better air reading system but the SD computer is a little more friendly to being upgraded. Either way you go you can't go wrong so to speak. If you have the E4OD trans you won't be able to upgrade to MAF unless you get a lightning computer.

 

How can I tell which tranny is in it? I got the truck for free from a family member who couldn't tell me much about it.

I will probably end up staying with the speed density set-up. I'm trying not to complicate things too much sine I'm might be putting on the B&M blower.

I saw a post where I person used a gen 2 lightning throttle body. Is this a good idea? I can get one for free.

 

I have to disagree here...The MAF computer is quite friendly to upgrades. I have built four EFI high output trucks. Two on SD and one two on a MAF system. I'd take a MAF setup anyday over an SD build!

Aggressive cam upgrades, injectors, intake mods, exhaust, high flowing cylinder heads etc. etc. all work well with a stock MAF computer and no tweaking. Once the rig is fired up and run for a day, the ECU will relearn the curves and shift points. Try any of the above with an SD system...you will be tweaking, checking, and re-checking air:fuel tables, shift points etc. hours after the upgrade.

There's a reason the speed density system is deemed archaic. Although the SD system is doable with the software, MAF is quite painless and extremely user friendly in comparison.

 

Hmmm, in that light, if a MAF conversion will help with my A/F ratio and keep me from having to do a lot of tuning, I may do it. It will adjust the A/F itself, but SD won't?

 

The MAF system uses SET tables and anything larger than 306ci will require a custom tune to allow for more fuel flow, the SD uses the same set tables for ignition timing and fuel rate so either one needs to be tuned to work properly.

The easiest way to find out is look at the tag on the door. There is a field labeled "TRANS" and underneath it will give a letter code. Post that code.

 

Ok, I'll get it here in a little while and post it. Thanks.


Also, whats the stock gearing for a '92 5.0?

 

Transmission code is "E"

 

E is an E4OD. On that same sticker look for a field labeled AXLE. It will have a 2 character code. It's probably 19 which is a non limited-slip 3.55:1 8.8 rear axle, the other common one is 18 which is a 3.08:1 8.8 rear axle.

 

A mild built 331 worked great with a stock MAF ECU setup. It was tuned on a chassis dyno with a custom chip and software for nominal performance gains (3-5 hp and 7-10 tq) at the expense of large fuel milage losses and too many dyno runs. This was deemed not worth the effort time or money....

The truck now runs on the stock MAF ECU with no custom tuning software. 19lb injectors, 0.544" lift cam, ported truck intake, bbk 61 mm TB, heavily ported e7's, 4.10 gears and long tube headers. The only modification was an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. The truck hit just under 300 hp to the rear wheels at 5300 rpm and 345 tq at 3700 with the stock MAF ECU. I'd love to see a speed density system even drive with those mods.

I think you might be underestimating the stock MAF ecu. Give it a try for your next stroker build.

 

Yep, it was 19 so I guess I have 3.55's.

So if I have read correctly in other posts, the MAF from a '95 F-150 would be easiest for the swap? I work at an auto parts store, so I might can get a good deal on some MAF's with my discount, I just need to know what's the best one to go with?

Also, what is the curb weight on a '92 5.0 Flareside?