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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 11:21 AM
  #16  
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all this talk and no pictures to prove???
 
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Old Jul 27, 2007 | 09:19 PM
  #17  
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From: Louisiana
I'm still slowly trying to finish up swapping transfer cases.
Who ever said it was a bolt up swap needs to be shot.

Man, EVERYTHING has to be changed or something has to be done.
I'm haveing clearance issues with the front driveshaft and the tranny crossmember and the transmission pan. I cut some of the crossmember, but I'm thinking about doing something to strengthen it back up.

I'm changeing some brake lines tomorrow on the bronco, and fixing my blower motor/fan speed switch on my 77 so I can have A/C again.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 09:54 PM
  #18  
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fishmanndotcom
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From: Senoia, GA
still working on the new shop.

also working on getting my cromo shafts, gears, joints, and flanges in.

also, about to order 1410 driveshafts with yokes very soon

-cutts-
 
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:40 PM
  #19  
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From: In a hole
so, can i put 52" swampers on my d44 with 4" lift?
 
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:50 PM
  #20  
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I don't see a problem with that. In fact, I would just do a hockey puck body lift.
 
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 10:52 PM
  #21  
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79-400-POWER
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From: In a hole
thats what i was thinking, somthing like 5" be good
 
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Old Jul 28, 2007 | 11:30 PM
  #22  
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RawPower
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From: Rep. of Texas
recycled and stacked 2x4's work just as well, and they are easier to come by, and a whole lot easier to drill through
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 10:49 AM
  #23  
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KubotaOrange76
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From: GA
In the process of putting 4 leaf 63 chevies inboarded in the rear of My junk

A little off topic...Drove three laps around talledega in my dodge yesterday...only got up to 102 in the turns she needs more gear

 

Last edited by KubotaOrange76; Jul 29, 2007 at 11:30 AM.
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 11:46 AM
  #24  
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Dig the pics KO. Driving around the track would have been pretty cool.
You will like the flex from the long chevy springs. I have been running them outboard in the back for a while, and like them a bunch. Decent low dollar mod. I had returned them to the outboard mounting location. I found that it was too flexy (did I really say too flexy?) with them inboard. I still run a full bed, and my ride weighs quite a bit more than yours, but having them inside of the rails really made for a bunch of body roll while driving on the street, really was not very stable (for me) and felt like it wanted to flop pretty easily Never got it on its lid (yet), but felt a little more stable with the outboard mounts.
Here is something for you. I moved the shackle closer to the front by about a full inch, and added a zero rate AAL. This curved the spring up slightly (making it a bit shorter) and allows for a great deal of compression. With a slightly longer shackle it can really swing, and you can get a great deal of travel out of it. I run a decent amount of shackle angle so it rides good on the street, and can extend as far as she can go, while still allowing for good compression without flipping the shackle backwards.
You will just have to monkey with it to see, but you should like them.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 11:54 AM
  #25  
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From: GA
street manners is not a concern with me because it has no tag anymore...which leaves did you have? the 4 leaf? im hoping mine works out good with the lighter rear...i still have my national spring int he rear that i had on the truck with the bed, they flexed good with the bed but now the front does all the work, im hoping to balance it out

Driving around that track was awesome....pace was about 80, but i would let off in the straights and floor it around the turns....even at 102 i was slightly turning the wheel to the right to keep the truck from going to the bottom of the track, those banks are STEEP
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 12:07 PM
  #26  
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Mine are 4 leaf, and the ver bottom one is nothing more than an overload. I cut it at the rear so it does not do anything other than touch the front of the pack under acceleration. It acts much like a slapper style bar. The underside of the spring is pretty shiney so it touches quite a bit, but does a very good job of controlling the axle. I do not run any type of traction device, at all other than the modified spring. did fool around with various mounting locations for the shocks, and ended the mounts to get better leverage on the axle without compromising compression and rebound. I also removed the tops of the spring clamps so they can seperate during extension cycles, and let me tell you, they come apart a bunch. Never had too much trouble with them twisting, and the nylon sliders help to keep them quiet. I know you dont much care about that, but it is still nice to not be the squeeky guy on the trail.
Either way, I am sure you will like them.
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 12:42 PM
  #27  
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From: GA
AWesome....im going to go fab my spring mounts....i got a free 10 foot peice of 3/8" wall 4" square tube im making the front and rear mounts out of....going to box in the frame at front and rear mounts, put a crossmember between the front mounts and use the stock chevy shackles in compression for now
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 12:54 PM
  #28  
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That will work just fine. I only boxed in the section and used the factory hangers. Of course I used the chevy fixed hanger, because it was pretty long, and the ford fixed, I used out back to habg the factory chevy shackle from. Worked good, but like I said was a little too flexy for my heavy junk. Probably will work pretty sweet in your lightweight. lol.
If you are going to make crossmebers and everything, then you are going to get wicked narrow on the spring perches right?
 
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Old Jul 29, 2007 | 01:36 PM
  #29  
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From: GA
im going to put the crossmember between the boxed frame rails
 
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