Setting The Timing Woes
Setting The Timing Woes
Greetings fellow enthusiasts, hopefully someone can help me with my timing problem. Here's the situation, I replaced the timing chain and put everything back together. I warm the engine to operating temperature, turn off the engine, remove the spout connector, restart the engine, using a timing light try to set the timing to 10BTDC at the pointer while rotating the distributor to said timing marks the engine dies. What am I doing wrong? I want to push it off a cliff, but I cant drive it to a cliff because it wont start. The wife is plenty ticked that I cant get it running and wants me to get rid of it. Any help will be appreciated!!!
If you can keep the truck running long enough to pull computer codes BEFORE it dies, do so. This could help shed some light on the cause without making you have to go on a wild goose chase.
Otherwise, the key to any engine stall issue is the ignition triology... fuel, heat(spark), and air. The IAC controls the airflow into the engine at idle. The fuel pressure regulator controls fuel delivery at idle. The TFI module controls spark timing at idle. Its highly unlikely that the problem lies in the spark since the engine DOES run. However the other two are questionable. If bringing the timing into the PROPER setting causes a stall, somehow either the air or the fuel are not getting where they need to.
Otherwise, the key to any engine stall issue is the ignition triology... fuel, heat(spark), and air. The IAC controls the airflow into the engine at idle. The fuel pressure regulator controls fuel delivery at idle. The TFI module controls spark timing at idle. Its highly unlikely that the problem lies in the spark since the engine DOES run. However the other two are questionable. If bringing the timing into the PROPER setting causes a stall, somehow either the air or the fuel are not getting where they need to.
I also replaced the timing chain last year. I remember noticing the pointer bracket holes are quite a bit larger than the two bolts and guessed it to transfer about 1/2 degree difference depended on where I tightened it down. So I set the timing for the highest idle rpm which turned out to be 11-12 btdc and it runs great with no knock. However, it did continue to run at 10.
get the motor to tdc on cylinder 1. then pop the dizzy cap and see where the rotor is pointing. it should be pointing to the #1 post on the dizzy cap. if not then you need to pull the distributor and re stab it. I bet the dizzy is 180* out







