my pump seems to work fine, but in my estimation the last time it was rebuilt (60K ago) the guy was a hack. with the original pump when the truck was warming up there was a noticeable difference between the high idle and when it stepped down...also now I feel like my pump acts funny when it is cold...sometimes driving the truck at highway speeds it seems to want to 'run away' from me- as if I had my foot on the gas pedal. who do you guys recommend using to rebuild a pump and how much should it cost?

 

I went to diesel care. they are about 295, and the pumps are real good. Mines real strong. Injectors are 23 bucks too, so they are a steal. I live in canada and the cheapest pump up here is 470 bucks so call them up. Enjoy the power. My truck is the 7.3 turbo so the pump and injectors (G) are alittle more. the regular pumps are 275 and the injectors 18 buck. Enjoy.

 

cool, thx...you have contact info for them?

 

http://www.dieselcare.net/FORDPRODUC...FQLxYAodLFFqhw

 

If it feels as if it is running away, try looking for air leaking into the fuel system. Feels like a nitrous boost.

 

how would you go about that?

 

If your looking to find the air leak - here is some tips. Check the fuel return lines located between the injectors. If they are painted engine gray they are in need of replacement. Hairline cracks in the hoses will let air in and no fuel out. Also another spot to look is along the frame. Check to see if fuel lines are getting rusty. If they are replace as air will leak in thru the rust.

 

How much fuel do you have in the tank when this happens. It could be 1/4 tank syndrom.LOL , Ford has a valve inside the tanks on the pick up. in cold climates water at the bottom of all diesels will freeze plugging the inlet not allowing fuel to pass and no start. So the second valve at the 1/4 tank level (still in fuel) will sense the vacuum and open letting in fuel. Problem is its rubber, so it gets weak and will open periodically when your tank drops below it (1/4 tank), it then sucks air for a millisecond causing the nitrous boost effect. Eventually it just stays open and you can't go below 1/4 tank without stalling. I took mine out. Both tanks. Solved the problem immediately. Besides it never freezes here anyway....... Air leaks, well start by starting her up, warm up then one by one loosen off the injector nuts. One at a time. If it starts sputtering when you loosen it off and let air in, then that one is OK. Tighten it back up then move to #2. If one doesn't cause a change, then it was already leaking. Return lines are the most likely spot for a leak. the plastic caps leak, the hoses leak. Diesel care also sells the entire return kit for 23 bucks, a steal compared to 70 here in canada. It has O rings caps hoses and clamps. All real good. The idle drop is adjustible. The solenoid has a little nut shaped end on the shaft . Righty tighty , lefty loosy, Loosy makes longer. Which makes more idle at cold start, and bigger drop when it shuts down. By chance is it unplugged, or weak. Turn the key on cold, step on the pedal to help it out, cause there wimpy, then get out and have a look, is it sticking out or not. May have bit the biscuit. There cheap too. Thats the beauty of these trucks, all the parts are cheap if your doing it yourself. Any way good luck, and if you go for the new pump hit diesel care, there good. They send you your stuff, you send back the cores, and they give you money back. They even give cores on the injectors. Hope I helped.

 

thanks for the advice guys...I'm pretty sure the return lines are all original...the return kit is only $23? that includes the lines? well I have some investigating to do...I replaced the rear tank a couple years ago so I wi=onder if that valve setup is in the replacement tank? come to think of it, the nitrous boost seems to happen when it's cold, but I'll have to pay more attention...I'm sure I'll locate the prob now...

 

If the fast idle and timing advance are still on when this happens it is because of the timing advance and it is normal...... other than that read.

http://www.intellidog.com/dieselmann/idi.htm

I recommend MWIF they have a very good reputation...... cost should not be the defining factor in IP rebuilds......reputation and service should be however.

http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_69.htm
http://www.mwfi.com/dieselPage/ford_73.htm