trans question
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trans question
Hello and Greetings to all,
Do any of you know if it is possible to go to from a C6 to a manual five on a 88 7.3l idi 250? Is this even worth the effort? I am trying to get 400 lower rpms at 65-70mph. Is this even obtainable with the C6 maybe if I went to like 3.08 rear. I dont know what the best option is to achieve my goal is. I was told to go to 3.55 or 3.08 to start but what should I expect from that?
Much Appreciation to all replies!!!
Do any of you know if it is possible to go to from a C6 to a manual five on a 88 7.3l idi 250? Is this even worth the effort? I am trying to get 400 lower rpms at 65-70mph. Is this even obtainable with the C6 maybe if I went to like 3.08 rear. I dont know what the best option is to achieve my goal is. I was told to go to 3.55 or 3.08 to start but what should I expect from that?
Much Appreciation to all replies!!!
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: KY
Originally Posted by dieselred
Hello and Greetings to all,
Do any of you know if it is possible to go to from a C6 to a manual five on a 88 7.3l idi 250? Is this even worth the effort? I am trying to get 400 lower rpms at 65-70mph. Is this even obtainable with the C6 maybe if I went to like 3.08 rear. I dont know what the best option is to achieve my goal is. I was told to go to 3.55 or 3.08 to start but what should I expect from that?
Much Appreciation to all replies!!!
Do any of you know if it is possible to go to from a C6 to a manual five on a 88 7.3l idi 250? Is this even worth the effort? I am trying to get 400 lower rpms at 65-70mph. Is this even obtainable with the C6 maybe if I went to like 3.08 rear. I dont know what the best option is to achieve my goal is. I was told to go to 3.55 or 3.08 to start but what should I expect from that?
Much Appreciation to all replies!!!
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Joined: Mar 2006
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From: North-Eastern, Ohio
Any ZF-5 speed from '88-on will fit on a 6.9/7.3L. You'll need a clutch and pressure plate, clutch hydrulics, clutch petal assy., flywheel, and some modification the floor for the shifter.
But swapping rear-end gears would be a lot less costly.
But swapping rear-end gears would be a lot less costly.
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thanx for the info guys,
so obviously I need to identify the type of rear end in the truck. Is this something I can do by looking at it or do I have to investigate it further? I hope my lack of experience isn't a nuisance to you all. I really do appreciate all of the replies and I am willing to learn if given a chance.
David85,
I think I have asked you about this situation before, Thank you for your patience. You spoke of a gear vendor before. Could you explain how this thing works if at all possible? Is there a website to find these gears? I am in no hurry so reply at your own convenience.
Thank you again to all of you
so obviously I need to identify the type of rear end in the truck. Is this something I can do by looking at it or do I have to investigate it further? I hope my lack of experience isn't a nuisance to you all. I really do appreciate all of the replies and I am willing to learn if given a chance.
David85,
I think I have asked you about this situation before, Thank you for your patience. You spoke of a gear vendor before. Could you explain how this thing works if at all possible? Is there a website to find these gears? I am in no hurry so reply at your own convenience.
Thank you again to all of you
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
With appolagies for the fact that they are showing a chevy setup, this article shows the basics of an auxiliary overdrive:
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...411sc_od_copy/
The rear differential that you have is most likely a sterling (made by ford). If you want to know the gearing of the current serup, you can post the rpms that you are turning at, say 60 mph, at those speeds there is very little slip to throw off your observations.
Or, you could look at the door tag and post the axle code and some one here will be able to decode it (my book only goes to 1985).
There are several online sources for a Gear Vendors overdrive, and if you want to swap the diffy gears (cheaper), Motive Gear makes a set for the sterling 10.25".
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...411sc_od_copy/
The rear differential that you have is most likely a sterling (made by ford). If you want to know the gearing of the current serup, you can post the rpms that you are turning at, say 60 mph, at those speeds there is very little slip to throw off your observations.
Or, you could look at the door tag and post the axle code and some one here will be able to decode it (my book only goes to 1985).
There are several online sources for a Gear Vendors overdrive, and if you want to swap the diffy gears (cheaper), Motive Gear makes a set for the sterling 10.25".
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Hey guys,
I have been out of town, sorry for the late reply. My door tag says axle 39. At 60 mph I am turning a little over 2500rpm. Maybe you can tell me more about these rear diff. gears. My goal is to get down 400rpms by going to 3.08s or something comparable. With my original C6 do you think this is possible or just wishful thinking. I also plan on purchasing a gear vendor after I get my bonus. Do you think this will go well with the C6 and 3.08s?? ANy help is much appreciated because I obviously need it
I have been out of town, sorry for the late reply. My door tag says axle 39. At 60 mph I am turning a little over 2500rpm. Maybe you can tell me more about these rear diff. gears. My goal is to get down 400rpms by going to 3.08s or something comparable. With my original C6 do you think this is possible or just wishful thinking. I also plan on purchasing a gear vendor after I get my bonus. Do you think this will go well with the C6 and 3.08s?? ANy help is much appreciated because I obviously need it
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From: Tacoma, WA
Originally Posted by dieselred
Hey guys,
I have been out of town, sorry for the late reply. My door tag says axle 39. At 60 mph I am turning a little over 2500rpm. Maybe you can tell me more about these rear diff. gears. My goal is to get down 400rpms by going to 3.08s or something comparable. With my original C6 do you think this is possible or just wishful thinking. I also plan on purchasing a gear vendor after I get my bonus. Do you think this will go well with the C6 and 3.08s?? ANy help is much appreciated because I obviously need it
I have been out of town, sorry for the late reply. My door tag says axle 39. At 60 mph I am turning a little over 2500rpm. Maybe you can tell me more about these rear diff. gears. My goal is to get down 400rpms by going to 3.08s or something comparable. With my original C6 do you think this is possible or just wishful thinking. I also plan on purchasing a gear vendor after I get my bonus. Do you think this will go well with the C6 and 3.08s?? ANy help is much appreciated because I obviously need it
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Lead Driver
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Originally Posted by dieselred
Hey guys,
I have been out of town, sorry for the late reply. My door tag says axle 39. At 60 mph I am turning a little over 2500rpm. Maybe you can tell me more about these rear diff. gears. My goal is to get down 400rpms by going to 3.08s or something comparable. With my original C6 do you think this is possible or just wishful thinking. I also plan on purchasing a gear vendor after I get my bonus. Do you think this will go well with the C6 and 3.08s?? ANy help is much appreciated because I obviously need it
I have been out of town, sorry for the late reply. My door tag says axle 39. At 60 mph I am turning a little over 2500rpm. Maybe you can tell me more about these rear diff. gears. My goal is to get down 400rpms by going to 3.08s or something comparable. With my original C6 do you think this is possible or just wishful thinking. I also plan on purchasing a gear vendor after I get my bonus. Do you think this will go well with the C6 and 3.08s?? ANy help is much appreciated because I obviously need it
My book only goes to 85, so some one else will have to decode that for you, but if you have 235/85/16 tires, you probably have 3.54 gears. Going to 3.08 gears will make a difference (close to 400 rpm), and so wll a GV overdrive, but doing both will not be worth your while.
First of all, it gets pricy, but the slip in the toque converter will also increase once your final drive ratio tries to push the rpms below about 2000 rpm.
3.08 gears will put your RPM at a little over 2100 (assuming zero slip) at 60 mph, but a GV overdrive will push that down to 1680 rpm, but the TC will increase its slip at those speeds such that your RPMs will be closer to 2000. Overall, you will increase your top speed, but the reduction in RPM will not be at a useable speed, unless you like to cruise above 75 MPH -then again, I've been known to do that
.I've mulled over all these options with my truck, and figured the gear swap would give the best bang for my buck. I was satisfied with the results but......less than two years later I started building an E4OD transmission for it
.I hope some of that made sence.
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david85
thanx,
It makes sense.
I guess the gear swap is as good as it will get unless I want to dive into an e40d, which I have no experience to even attempt. Is there anything else you would recommend to enhance overall preformance??? I am willing to spend 3grand or so if it is justified to keep me running as long as you have. Thank you again for your patience and expertise. Yall are my only outlet to learning about this truck and I consider all of your opinions invaluable.
thanx,
It makes sense.
I guess the gear swap is as good as it will get unless I want to dive into an e40d, which I have no experience to even attempt. Is there anything else you would recommend to enhance overall preformance??? I am willing to spend 3grand or so if it is justified to keep me running as long as you have. Thank you again for your patience and expertise. Yall are my only outlet to learning about this truck and I consider all of your opinions invaluable.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
3 grand can get you a LOT on these older trucks. I spent around $400 CAD on the ring and pinion set delivered to my door, cost around $250 US (these days the canadian dollar is almost on par to the US though). If your not comfortable with a changing the ring and pinion, you may be able to find an older Dana rear axle with 3.07 gears for a similar cost, but swapping rear ends is more work than just the gears.
With whats left over, you could still have enough to get a NEW turbo kit.
If you reeeeeally want to get an E4OD, you could get a rebuilt unit for as little as $1500, but its not recomended unless you get one with a few internal upgrades and then it get even more complicated. And then you will need a computer....
With gear swap you won't have to mess with your driveshaft either, just the speedo gear unless you feel like getting lots of speeding tickets.
With whats left over, you could still have enough to get a NEW turbo kit.
If you reeeeeally want to get an E4OD, you could get a rebuilt unit for as little as $1500, but its not recomended unless you get one with a few internal upgrades and then it get even more complicated. And then you will need a computer....
With gear swap you won't have to mess with your driveshaft either, just the speedo gear unless you feel like getting lots of speeding tickets.
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i would not personally put a e4od behind the diesel engine, just doesn't make sence to me. i thought it would be a good idea to use one, but it is giving me fits so i am kinda prejudice against e4od's right now.
david. i see you have an e4od in a 6.9. i just got through putting together and installing a e4od on my 89 gasser that used to be a c6. but the tranny slips like crazy, 1st gear is the only one that holds tight. anyways if you know anything about internals of the e4 give me a shout pm or something. i would also like a set of 3.08 rear gear for the sterling 10.25
david. i see you have an e4od in a 6.9. i just got through putting together and installing a e4od on my 89 gasser that used to be a c6. but the tranny slips like crazy, 1st gear is the only one that holds tight. anyways if you know anything about internals of the e4 give me a shout pm or something. i would also like a set of 3.08 rear gear for the sterling 10.25
Last edited by 89ford73; Aug 2, 2007 at 12:08 AM.
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or if you really want power and torque, just put a 12v cummins and 5 speed nv4500 in the ford!! thats what i did to my 94. just get a new driveshaft for the rear. then i would say get a set of 3.08's or 3.55's for sure.
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Campbell River, B.C.
Originally Posted by 89ford73
i would not personally put a e4od behind the diesel engine, just doesn't make sence to me. i thought it would be a good idea to use one, but it is giving me fits so i am kinda prejudice against e4od's right now.
david. i see you have an e4od in a 6.9. i just got through putting together and installing a e4od on my 89 gasser that used to be a c6. but the tranny slips like crazy, 1st gear is the only one that holds tight. anyways if you know anything about internals of the e4 give me a shout pm or something. i would also like a set of 3.08 rear gear for the sterling 10.25
david. i see you have an e4od in a 6.9. i just got through putting together and installing a e4od on my 89 gasser that used to be a c6. but the tranny slips like crazy, 1st gear is the only one that holds tight. anyways if you know anything about internals of the e4 give me a shout pm or something. i would also like a set of 3.08 rear gear for the sterling 10.25
I will admit I had some problems with my project as well, but most of it was my own falt, hmmm....actually it was more than most
.Are you sure your transmision is actually sifting to the next gear? Or is it just stuck in first? You can do a test with the rear wheels off the ground to see if it will go through all the gears.
Is the trans a fresh rebuild? Anything else you can tell me that could help us figure this out?
For 3.08 gears, (is this going in an E4OD equipped truck???) Motive Gear was the brand that I used, I basicly just found the cheapest online store I could find, $225 USD (before shipping and brokerage) comes to mind. I don't know of any other brands, but after about 40 000 miles, I did the second fluid change (first change was 500 after swap), and they were in beautiful shape.