Transmission swap problem
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Transmission swap problem
Have a 92 F350 4X4 C/C. Has a 6.9 with a Banks turbo was an E40D trans. swaped in a 94 ZF 5sp using a 6.9 single mass flywheel. Problem awful noise from front of trans?? sounds like a blender grinding ice. When rpm increased to 1000-1200 out of gear clutch out noise goes away. All parts are new except trans. The trans has all new bearings and the shop that did the work said the transmission was good. Any ideas out there other than swap trans for another and see if noise goes away?
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From: KY
Originally Posted by JoeJ
Have a 92 F350 4X4 C/C. Has a 6.9 with a Banks turbo was an E40D trans. swaped in a 94 ZF 5sp using a 6.9 single mass flywheel. Problem awful noise from front of trans?? sounds like a blender grinding ice. When rpm increased to 1000-1200 out of gear clutch out noise goes away. All parts are new except trans. The trans has all new bearings and the shop that did the work said the transmission was good. Any ideas out there other than swap trans for another and see if noise goes away?
. I don't believe the noise is the trans. We were going to try a difference clutch disk. I am thinking the clutch disk is causing the resination. We haven't fooled with it though it hasn't come apart yet and it is kinda funny. This is an old work truck and he has a excavating business so at all the job sights the guys have been taking bets on which part will hit the ground first. I am not picking at you by anymeans. I feel for ya. It is bad.
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From: Kent WA
I just did this swap in my truck.
3 things I did that almost (but not quite) got rid of the "blender full of ice" or "washing machine full of marbles" noise....
1) Heavier oil. I used 15W50 Mobil1 synthetic in mine
2) MORE oil. It only takes 1 gallon to fill it to the filler plug. I put 2 gallons in mine by removing the shift lever and pouring the oil in through the shift tower
3) Increase idle RPMs from the factory setting of 625 RPMs +/- 50. I upped mine to around 750-800 RPMs
After doing all that there is just barely a little bit of noise when sitting idling in neutral with the clutch out. You can hear a difference when you push the clutch in versus when you let it out in neutral, but at its worst it is not a loud as the engine at idle. Quiet enough for me.
As always, YMMV....
3 things I did that almost (but not quite) got rid of the "blender full of ice" or "washing machine full of marbles" noise....
1) Heavier oil. I used 15W50 Mobil1 synthetic in mine
2) MORE oil. It only takes 1 gallon to fill it to the filler plug. I put 2 gallons in mine by removing the shift lever and pouring the oil in through the shift tower
3) Increase idle RPMs from the factory setting of 625 RPMs +/- 50. I upped mine to around 750-800 RPMs
After doing all that there is just barely a little bit of noise when sitting idling in neutral with the clutch out. You can hear a difference when you push the clutch in versus when you let it out in neutral, but at its worst it is not a loud as the engine at idle. Quiet enough for me.
As always, YMMV....
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Sounds like that is the route that I'll try. Hate to pull everything apart and go to a duel mass flywheel. My trans uses ATF it won't hurt to use Mobil 1?
thanks
thanks
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
As thin as syntetic oil is, even when cold I don't think you will have any trouble at all.
I know it will also perform better when the temp is high.
Using conventional oil in low temp climates would more than likely cause problems from lack of lubrication when cold.
When I was running over the road, one guy I knew took the gear oil out of his Road Ranger transmissions and replaced it with 30 weight motor oil.
I drove one several times and was always impressed with how easy it shifted even at very low temps.
And even though he was not using the specified gear oil, he had less transmission trouble than the guys running gear oil.
I know it will also perform better when the temp is high.
Using conventional oil in low temp climates would more than likely cause problems from lack of lubrication when cold.
When I was running over the road, one guy I knew took the gear oil out of his Road Ranger transmissions and replaced it with 30 weight motor oil.
I drove one several times and was always impressed with how easy it shifted even at very low temps.
And even though he was not using the specified gear oil, he had less transmission trouble than the guys running gear oil.
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From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by JoeJ
Sounds like that is the route that I'll try. Hate to pull everything apart and go to a duel mass flywheel. My trans uses ATF it won't hurt to use Mobil 1?
thanks
thanks
IIRC the 15W50 rating means that the oil contains addatives that allow it to have the same viscocity (thickness) as 15 weight oil at 0*C (ATF is approximately 15 weight oil) and at the same time it has the same viscocity as 50 weight at 100*C. The thing to remember is that as oil heats up it gets thinner, and 50 weight oil at 100*C is actually thinner than 15 weight oil at 0*C. So, lubrication shouldn't be an issue.
I don't know this 100% for sure, but I think that the reason they recommend synthetic is because the sulfur in regular petroleum-based oil is bad for the brass parts inside the tranny. It creates pitting in the surface of the brass. At least that is what I've read elsewhere. That's why I chose the Mobil1....
Last edited by CheaperJeeper; Jul 28, 2007 at 01:53 AM.
Post Fiend
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From: Faibanks Ak.
ok guys what is the difference in a standard 6.9 flywheel and a luk replacement for a dual mass for some reason I was thinking the input shaft on a zf was to short to go all the way into pilot bearing using the 6.9 flywheel. there was a reason we didn't put 6.9 flywheels on when the dualmass first started going bad
Post Fiend
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From: Faibanks Ak.
dave seems like i compared a zf to a for speed one time I had two trucks apart the way I measured it if you mounted a zf on a 6.9 flywheel the input just barely started in the pilot bearing figured would cause problems.
I thought maybe the luck was thicker.
I thought maybe the luck was thicker.
Post Fiend
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From: Nutter Fort, WV
I have seen a dual mass to Luk swap before, as I remember there is a spacer that mounts on the clutch/tranny side of the dual mass that goes between the Luk flywheel and the crank.
That has been a while back since I saw that though.
That has been a while back since I saw that though.
Post Fiend
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From: Faibanks Ak.
possible there noise problem.
my ford man told me they recomended syn gear oil in 5spds if used hard instead of atf even in rangers.I have a zf out of may have a bellhousing will measure close to see.i 6.9 flywheel works zf going in highboy dont need bigger clutch never had clutch problems.
my ford man told me they recomended syn gear oil in 5spds if used hard instead of atf even in rangers.I have a zf out of may have a bellhousing will measure close to see.i 6.9 flywheel works zf going in highboy dont need bigger clutch never had clutch problems.