Disc Brakes.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 446
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From: Texas
Disc Brakes.
Yeah, I know, there's a million threads on this. Here's another.
I've been researching this conversion since I bought the truck back in 04, and there's a lot of information out there to go through. It seems like no 2 people have done it exactly the same way. While most of my questions have been answered by the search function, I have a few that either I didn't find the answer to, or I found conflicting answers to. Either way, I need to ask them here.
First, my 66 has Forged braces, those things that go back from the spring to the frame and brace the I beams. The 76 Doner I found has thick stamped steel. Which are better?
Rubber bushings. They're 40 years old, but not falling off. Some say keep them, as there better than the reproductions, some say go to urithane, some say both sugestions are crazy and go for new rubber. most agree that the new won't last another 40 years though. It was never realy debated, just random advice in random threads on converting to Discs. So whats better?
Porportioning valve. The one I got from the doner truck is jammed up. Whats a good sorce for a new, or NOS one? will one from a 80s to 90s truck work?
I've been researching this conversion since I bought the truck back in 04, and there's a lot of information out there to go through. It seems like no 2 people have done it exactly the same way. While most of my questions have been answered by the search function, I have a few that either I didn't find the answer to, or I found conflicting answers to. Either way, I need to ask them here.
First, my 66 has Forged braces, those things that go back from the spring to the frame and brace the I beams. The 76 Doner I found has thick stamped steel. Which are better?
Rubber bushings. They're 40 years old, but not falling off. Some say keep them, as there better than the reproductions, some say go to urithane, some say both sugestions are crazy and go for new rubber. most agree that the new won't last another 40 years though. It was never realy debated, just random advice in random threads on converting to Discs. So whats better?
Porportioning valve. The one I got from the doner truck is jammed up. Whats a good sorce for a new, or NOS one? will one from a 80s to 90s truck work?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Beater, You have asked some good questions. I think progress and innovation caused changes along the way. You can get opinions on which is better. Take a look under a 96 and see what was used for the last year of the I-beam. I am happy with my complete swap on my 66 with new rubber I might add.
You have me wondering, how can you tell that the proportioning valve is jammed up?
John
You have me wondering, how can you tell that the proportioning valve is jammed up?
John
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,232
Likes: 1
From: Colville, Washington
66- I used Energy Suspension bushings at the axle pivots and radius arm bushings. I think they will likely last 40 years, the main complaint seems to be squeaking which I have not had any issues with. I also replaced the rear spring bushing with the Energy Suspension and feel they are worth the money.
I reused my original forged arms, but radius arm failure is not a typical problem with either the forged or stamped. I did however experience a cracked arm on a '95 F150 4x4 with the stamped steel arm.
There are a few pictures in my gallery of the disc conversion I performed, if that would help any.
I reused my original forged arms, but radius arm failure is not a typical problem with either the forged or stamped. I did however experience a cracked arm on a '95 F150 4x4 with the stamped steel arm.
There are a few pictures in my gallery of the disc conversion I performed, if that would help any.
Last edited by Putt; Jul 22, 2007 at 06:14 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 306
Likes: 0
From: Berthoud, Colorado
I had the same problem with my prop. valve and soaked it in a good degreaser for about a week. I rinced it out good and sprayed it with WD-40 and have had no problems yet, and that has been 2 years.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 1,836
Likes: 3
From: Elizabethtown, PA
If you do just the spindle swap, you don't have to worry about the forged radius rods. The rubber bushings are certainly adequate, though urethane will be firmer and last longer in most cases (at a higher cost, naturally). I used new rubber bushings, with no problems so far. The proportioning valves were used for years and years, so finding another one that's good shouldn't be hard. I would not buy new as they are pretty expensive. If you only want a new part, then get a Wilwood adjustable valve and mount it wherever you want so that you can reach the ****. It will take some testing to determine where, exactly, you will want to set it that the rear brakes assist but don't lock up. I prefer the FoMoCo part because it takes all the guesswork out.
Cargo Master
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 2,082
Likes: 175
From: Central Texas
I decided to use new rubber bushings, there was nothing, I thought, wrong with the old, but since I had it all apart I went ahead. Glad I did, because there was noticable difference.
As far as the radius rods...I don't think it really matters, I cannot remember what the construct is on the radius rods I have.
I am not using any prop valve, but I think its a matter of dumb luck. My truck (F-250) includes a Dana 61 out of a '81 1-ton SRW which for whatever reason, doesn't really have issues without the prop valve. If I were to install one though, I would also go with an adjustable unit. That allows you to tailor the brakes for the load you're carrying....full rear braking if you have a load in the bed or reduced rear if you're running empty.
I am also using a power booster, which I highly suggest if you're going this route.
As far as the radius rods...I don't think it really matters, I cannot remember what the construct is on the radius rods I have.
I am not using any prop valve, but I think its a matter of dumb luck. My truck (F-250) includes a Dana 61 out of a '81 1-ton SRW which for whatever reason, doesn't really have issues without the prop valve. If I were to install one though, I would also go with an adjustable unit. That allows you to tailor the brakes for the load you're carrying....full rear braking if you have a load in the bed or reduced rear if you're running empty.
I am also using a power booster, which I highly suggest if you're going this route.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 1
From: East Central Florida
There are no OEM provisions on the forged radius arms for an anti sway bar, that's not to say one can't be fabbed.
I prefer Forged arms just for their class and effect. But I wouldn't run with out an anti sway bar they way my Slick is set up. Anti Sway Bara are a Must for me.
FBp
I prefer Forged arms just for their class and effect. But I wouldn't run with out an anti sway bar they way my Slick is set up. Anti Sway Bara are a Must for me.
FBp
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 446
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From: Texas
Thanks for the answers. I hope to be turning a wrench soon. the hardest part of this conversion isn't putting the parts together, its putting all the information together.
when I got the Power brake and Master cylinder, it was already off the truck, and there was no pedal assembly either. Pluss, there were no brake lines. Anyone have good pictures or drawings of the way the lines hook up to the MC, and how the power brake pedal was setup?
when I got the Power brake and Master cylinder, it was already off the truck, and there was no pedal assembly either. Pluss, there were no brake lines. Anyone have good pictures or drawings of the way the lines hook up to the MC, and how the power brake pedal was setup?
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