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Is anyones elses rear end loose,i ment ring and pinion,so dont get red faced
Theres a jolt when I put it in gear,and also when I give my truck gas after coasting it.I thought it could be a u-joint,but there all tight as a ducks butt.Then I thought about the transmission,but what would explain the jolt upon acceleration.My guess is pointing to the rear differential.It sounds like it too,because you can hear the clunk coming from the back,but I havent been able to pinpoint it.Or did I just type all this up for nothing and it turns out all ford 9"s with over 100,000 miles have this problem.If it ward to be rear end slop,would I damage it if I drive it like this.It don't really see highway speed. The most I do is about 65 for a 15 mile long distance once a week or so,but most of its use is on the streets and in the mud.Sorry post is so long.
Thanks for any input
1977 Ford F-150 4x4 351M C-6 just incase it matters
Is anyones elses rear end loose,i ment ring and pinion,so dont get red faced
Theres a jolt when I put it in gear,and also when I give my truck gas after coasting it.I thought it could be a u-joint,but there all tight as a ducks butt.Then I thought about the transmission,but what would explain the jolt upon acceleration.My guess is pointing to the rear differential.It sounds like it too,because you can hear the clunk coming from the back,but I havent been able to pinpoint it.Or did I just type all this up for nothing and it turns out all ford 9"s with over 100,000 miles have this problem.If it ward to be rear end slop,would I damage it if I drive it like this.It don't really see highway speed. The most I do is about 65 for a 15 mile long distance once a week or so,but most of its use is on the streets and in the mud.Sorry post is so long.
Thanks for any input
1977 Ford F-150 4x4 351M C-6 just incase it matters
Bad U-joints are the first thing to look at. Next is the Drive Shaft Center Support (aka carrier bearing) if you have the two piece driveshaft. There's a bearing inside that wears out, the rubber support cracks and sags with age. Note: There are three u-joints with a two piece driveshaft,
The slip yoke on the transmission may be another cause of clunking. You might try greasing the output shaft splines. The 9 inch rear axle is damn near bullet proof, but over time, things do wear. When a ring and pinion is changed, the lash must be set. So don't just tighten up the pinion nut, that holds the companion flange to the rear end. Get advice first before tackling the rear axle.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jul 20, 2007 at 07:05 AM.
The previous moron who owned my truck swapped out the rear gears and never set the backlash. Some backyard mechanics.....anyway, because of it, my rear end does the exact same thing as you mentioned above. I've been told by two gear shops that they could reset the gears for pretty cheap if thats all thats wrong and as long as the ring or pinion hasnt started to wear unevenly. Obviously no one knows until they take it apart what the extent of the problem will be....
I got the time, just not the money or is it the other way around.
my truck has over 200000 miles on it an it dont seem to be making noise at all and im sure that everything is original. By the way my truck is a 1977 f150 4x4 351m c6 shorty regular cab, looking to buy a 400m for it from my dads cousins father, my dads cousin builds motors.
The previous moron who owned my truck swapped out the rear gears and never set the backlash. Some backyard mechanics.....anyway, because of it, my rear end does the exact same thing as you mentioned above. I've been told by two gear shops that they could reset the gears for pretty cheap if thats all thats wrong and as long as the ring or pinion hasnt started to wear unevenly. Obviously no one knows until they take it apart what the extent of the problem will be....
I got the time, just not the money or is it the other way around.
Once it's taken apart, you should replace the pinion bearings and races, pinion seal and "O" Ring, and the axle seals. You will definitely have to replace the crush sleeve. If you don't replace these parts, a dollar to a donut, something will either start to leak, or the bearings will begin to howl like an 'ol hound dawg. All these parts should cost less than a C note.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jul 20, 2007 at 09:36 AM.
i just finished checking the 3 u-joints,and there all tight,with no play at all.Then i put the truck in neutral,and turned the driveshaft and i can turn it 45 degrees before it locks up,that means it needs to be reset right?Also the carrier bearing is worn too.I'll get the carrier bearing today.And i take my truck to a shop to look at my r&p on monday.
i just finished checking the 3 u-joints,and there all tight,with no play at all.Then i put the truck in neutral,and turned the driveshaft and i can turn it 45 degrees before it locks up,that means it needs to be reset right?Also the carrier bearing is worn too.I'll get the carrier bearing today.And i take my truck to a shop to look at my r&p on monday.
Thanks for all the help
More than likely the pinion bearings, and/or the carrier bearings are worn. This causes the gears deflect farther away from each other, causing excessive play. It's possible to replace the bearings and have the backlash reset, as long as the gears aren't damaged.
I just rebuilt my 9" (finished it in march) make sure you clean all the junk out of your breather tube after you've done all the parts that number dummy mentioned. I did mine, but didn't think much about this until I noticed gear oil leaking past the oring for the pinion support. When I went to check the fluid level I pulled the fill plug and the case was pressurized- my breather was packed with dirt. Also find out if you have a daytona pinion support before you order your bearing kit. Mine has a daytone- maybe all with nodular cases do- I don't know. You'll know it by the pinion bearings- the daytona has a bigger bearing near the gear head, the regular pinion support uses the same size bearing at both inner and outer. the daytona also uses a different yoke and crush sleeve. I hope this saves you some of the headaches and restocking fees that I suffered.
i just finished checking the 3 u-joints,and there all tight,with no play at all.Then i put the truck in neutral,and turned the driveshaft and i can turn it 45 degrees before it locks up,that means it needs to be reset right?Also the carrier bearing is worn too.I'll get the carrier bearing today.And i take my truck to a shop to look at my r&p on monday.
Thanks for all the help
The Drive Shaft Center Support bearing (aka carrier bearing) is 1.37" I.D. The parts store will prolly ask you what size is the bearing. The entire kit is also available from Ford and parts stores.
D9TZ-4800-A .. Drive Shaft Center Support Replacement Kit
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