When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Just put in new injectors and a new pump, to get it to sound right i have the pump turned about 1/8 to pass. side and still needs to go further. I did not take the timing gear cover off is it possible for the gear to jump time with the cover on?I am going to have the shop that built the pump check the timing tommorrow before i do anything else.
Symptoms;
loud clatter on cold advance and black smoke
after warm clatter goes away but still a slight amount of smoke
going at highway speed still slight black smoke under light loud
I noticed on the old pump the cog on the back of the pump had been broke loose(seal was broken) so i am wondering if the timing gear had jumped and the pump was adjusted.My question is can i make the same adjustment while the pump is in place.
Are you guys with turbos getting replacement pumps and injectors set up for a 7.3 turbo, ie DB22831-507? and G code injectors. I wonder if they are not just plain pushing too much fuel for a 6.9 or <93.5 7.3 engine??
It sounds to me like your timing is about right, justy too much fuel.
I plan on having the timing checked first( it,s free) then proceed ,don't want
to void warranty on pump plus if it is over fueling i'll try to get them fix it first. By the way since this is a turbo pump can you adjust the fuel externally?
That external screw on the pump is only a max fuel stop from what I can tell. The actual limiting screw for the piston plungers is the internal screw, not sure though if its not more related to internal pump pressure rather than limiting settings??
well it turned out i had my timing to far retarded by alot, was set 1/8 to passenger side now set 3/16 to driver side to get timing set at 3.5 degrees.
no smoke and seems to run great, will see how it pulls this weekend.
well it turned out i had my timing to far retarded by alot, was set 1/8 to passenger side now set 3/16 to driver side to get timing set at 3.5 degrees.
no smoke and seems to run great, will see how it pulls this weekend.
Something's whonky here - or else we're not all using the same terms to describe the same thing....
Lets start by clearing up a couple of terms. Since the mark on the IP gear cover does not move, it is the "static reference point" and when you describe the location of the timing mark most people are referring to the mark on the pump flange - since it is the one that moves.
If you move the mark on the pump flange (by rotating the pump), moving it to the passenger side (rotating the pump counterclockwise) will advance the timing. Moving the mark towards the driver's side (rotating the pump clockwise) will retard the timing.
You said your timing mark was 1/8" towards the passenger side AND that it was too far retarded and that now it is 3/16" to the driver's side and now it is 3.5 degrees advanced. Some part of those two statements are backwards. Either it was too far advanced and you moved it to the driver's side to retard it, or you are referring to the movement of the marks "backwards" of the conventional way that everyone else does.
Just trying to help clear up any confusion and make sure we're all on the same page in terms of how to describe things. Anyway, glad to hear its running well......
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalyptic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.