Fuel gauge problems
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Fuel gauge problems
Hey guys. Im a little a lost with this gauge issue ive had awhile now. Heres the low down. The gauge will read maxed out, at about 3o'clock until the tank is nearly empty. At this time the gauge will read around the full mark. So I do get some movement out of it. Heres what I have done to try and fix it so far. Replaced the sender, gauge, and selector switch. Ive checked the grounds. Which make the gauge read empty when disconnected. Ive traced the sender wire as far I could, looks good. So heres my question. Can I run a wire from the sender right to the gauge to make sure there no problems with the wiring? What else should I check here, im lost.
Thanks alot.
Thanks alot.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Albuquerque
I have your fix! Install a fuel tank/toolbox unit in the bed and you will never have to worry about running out of fuel! LOL.....j/k bro. It sounds like it may be in your cluster which if is the case, will not be an easy fix.
Post Fiend
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From: MICHIGAN
You can check the sender(s): They register 145 ohms full and 22.5 ohms empty. To answer your question, Yes, you can run a wire from the sender straight to the gage.
Does the fuel gage work with either tank?
Have you checked the wiring at the selector valve located on the frame rail? The gage wiring runs though it too.
Does the fuel gage work with either tank?
Have you checked the wiring at the selector valve located on the frame rail? The gage wiring runs though it too.
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Im only running one tank. Removed the rear years ago. I have checked the wiring visually at the valve. When I disconnect the connector the gauge will peg, if its not alreeady pegged. How can I bypass the valve to test it?
Post Fiend
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From: MICHIGAN
Did the fuel gage work after you removed the rear tank?
You should be able to remove the plug on the selector valve and take a reading back to the sending unit in the tank. There is a connector by the power brake booster that contains all the wiring coming from the selector valve going to the dash (slector switch & gage).
There is a ground wire at the LH front of engine compartment, top of upper radiator support that needs to be checked too.
PM your email address, I will send you the wiring schematic and the pin-out for the connectors
You should be able to remove the plug on the selector valve and take a reading back to the sending unit in the tank. There is a connector by the power brake booster that contains all the wiring coming from the selector valve going to the dash (slector switch & gage).
There is a ground wire at the LH front of engine compartment, top of upper radiator support that needs to be checked too.
PM your email address, I will send you the wiring schematic and the pin-out for the connectors
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Jim, the gauge wasnt working before I took it out. So both tanks didnt read correctly. One can only assume thats not a sending unit issue. Ive checked the ground on the rad support and that looks good as well. This has to be a wiring issue somewhere. Im going to head down my shop tonight and try again. Im going to bypass the valve and see if that does anything. If not, into the dash I go. Ill let you know how I made out when I get back. Thanks again.
Post Fiend
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From: MICHIGAN
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Well I finally got it fixed. I bypassed the valve and the gauge now works. Thanks Jim, I cant thank you enough! Ive been without a fuel gauge for almost 2 years now.
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What are the odds of my gauge dying on me today? I got in the truck this morning and the gauge was the half mark. The tank was full. I swapped out the gauge with another I had and it worked fine. Wonder if I broke it yesterday somehow..
14psd, I bypassed the selector valve on the frame rail.
14psd, I bypassed the selector valve on the frame rail.
Post Fiend
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From: MICHIGAN
Check your email, I sent another connector schematic to you.
Have you checked the ground behind the LH kick panel. It's G201 on the schematic I sent you? or, It's the black wire on the fuel tank selector switch connector.
Have you checked the ground behind the LH kick panel. It's G201 on the schematic I sent you? or, It's the black wire on the fuel tank selector switch connector.
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Thanks again Jim, you've been very helpful.
Ok..After another day trying to figure this thing out I still dont have it working correctly. This is what ive done so far. I checked all the grounds, which are all good. Ive even ran new ground to the gauge because I broke the connector in the panel. I ran a wire right from the tank directly to the gauge. Neither made any difference. I cant get the gauge to move from the halfway mark. I put my meter on the sender wire to measure the resistance but I couldnt get a reading. The way thats done is you put one side of the meter on a ground and the other on the sender wire right? Im not sure if I was testing it right. But ive checked everything 2 or 3 times. I dont know what to do next. Except swap the sending unit out again.
Ok..After another day trying to figure this thing out I still dont have it working correctly. This is what ive done so far. I checked all the grounds, which are all good. Ive even ran new ground to the gauge because I broke the connector in the panel. I ran a wire right from the tank directly to the gauge. Neither made any difference. I cant get the gauge to move from the halfway mark. I put my meter on the sender wire to measure the resistance but I couldnt get a reading. The way thats done is you put one side of the meter on a ground and the other on the sender wire right? Im not sure if I was testing it right. But ive checked everything 2 or 3 times. I dont know what to do next. Except swap the sending unit out again.
Post Fiend
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From: MICHIGAN
You are correct about the measurement...from the sender wire to ground. Take the reading at the connector on the fuel tank or as close to the sender as possible. If you get no reading at all the sender is bad.
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I guess it could be the sender. It did come from a salvage yard. The guy at the counter told me a diesel supply pump from a 98 would work in my 95. Wrong. I got the old one out and quickly realized they were not the same. What was the same, or atleast looked the same was the actual sender. So I removed it from the new one and attached it to my pump. Does anyone know it the senders are the same? Maybe thats my problem now.