time to play name that noise!
#32
Very good advice. I've gotten to the point where I take U joints out with a socket and a ball-peen. Experience pays off.
When you get the driveshaft back, check to make sure that it pivots free and easily before you bolt it to the yoak on the pinion. If not, PM me and I'll tell you how to fix it. I'm pretty sure that the machine shop should know what they're doing, but I've heard some dandys. That being said... got a quick story...
My buddy took his crank to a machine shop to have it turned and polished. The guy told him to polish it, was going to cost extra. Figure that one out...
When you get the driveshaft back, check to make sure that it pivots free and easily before you bolt it to the yoak on the pinion. If not, PM me and I'll tell you how to fix it. I'm pretty sure that the machine shop should know what they're doing, but I've heard some dandys. That being said... got a quick story...
My buddy took his crank to a machine shop to have it turned and polished. The guy told him to polish it, was going to cost extra. Figure that one out...
#34
Well it's not really a trick, just words from an old wise mechanic neighbor of mine. Remember which side you beat the U joint inwards from. What happens when you beat it in, is the ear on the opposite side will slightly bend out. When you put the new U joint in, chances are it won't move freely. A slight smack or better yet...tap (just for insurance reasons... don't want to have 30 driveshafts showing up to my door b/c someone beat it with a 10 lb sledge and broke the ears off, and think I should fix it) will bring that ear on the opposite side of the one you were beating through, back in.
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