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time to play name that noise!

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  #16  
Old 07-22-2007, 05:47 AM
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my 2 cents
I had the same on my 94 150. searched and searched.I pulled my driveshaft and the joints had 0 play. I decided to replace them anyway while the ds was off and found one cap had dried and the needle bearings had turned to rust. (too many times backin the boat into the lake).It moved ok, had no play,but it was the problem.
good luck
 
  #17  
Old 07-22-2007, 09:23 AM
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once they dry out they sometimes feel tight but like you found are junk.
 
  #18  
Old 07-22-2007, 10:32 AM
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I drove myself nuts trying to fix that same noise you're talking about, so I replaced the rear U joint, and the noise is gone. I'd say thats your cheapest and best bet.
 
  #19  
Old 07-22-2007, 10:42 AM
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agreed....
 
  #20  
Old 07-22-2007, 10:45 AM
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And if you decide to replace them, and don't know how, find someone who does. Theres a few little tricks to the game that need to be done to keep from premature wear on the new joints.
 
  #21  
Old 07-22-2007, 10:48 AM
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and marking the driveshaft before removal.
 
  #22  
Old 07-22-2007, 08:57 PM
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Question

Originally Posted by rootbeerford
Recently my truck has started making noise while accelerating up to around 35-40 mph and its getting worse, also driving through deep water the other day seemed to make it worse the followig day. the noise is a squeaking / rubbing noise that sounds like two metla parts of some sort rubbing against each other that changes with rpm. Im thinking its the clutch but hoping its not, I sprayed some wd-40 on the driveshaft u joints the other day (no not to fix the problem) I figured if one of the u joints had lost its grease somehow then a spray of lube would make the noise go away for a little while anyway. So from this I learned its not the u joints, also the noise only happens when the clutch is fully engaged (foot not pushing the clutch pedal). My truck is a 1988 F-250 diesel with a 7.3 non-turbo, 5 speed and 4x4. also this is hapening under normal driving with the 4x4 disengaged at the transfercase and at the hubs (you can freely spin the front driveshaft with the truck parked and the tranny in gear).
Thanks for any help!
you said rubbing noise. just wondering did this start as a clicking noise on acceleration from a start. as my truck does this on rare occasion. i was thinking u joint but now i am not completely sure. have jacked up truck wiggled tugged and yanked in all direction no play but still sometimes hear sound.
 
  #23  
Old 07-22-2007, 09:37 PM
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I had that problem with mine turned out to be motor mounts. I checked them by putting a 2X4 on my jack and lifting each side at the oil pan flange. There wasn't much movement so I thought they were alright. Truck kept making the scraping noise so I changed them any way. It doesn't make the scraping noise any more. It seems they put a pin through the motor mounts to keep them from lifting too much(it fooled me) any way the motor wasn't lifting it was moving sideways and forceing the drive shaft to rub the bushing inside the transmission.
 
  #24  
Old 07-22-2007, 10:32 PM
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Another good way to check motor mounts. Put the truck in reverse. If an auto just hold down the brake, if manual, put on the parking brake. Have someone watch the engine while you gently apply power. The engine will lift from its normal position noticibly if the mounts are bad. Then when you let off the gas, the engine will settle back down on the mounts in its normal position.
 
  #25  
Old 07-22-2007, 10:52 PM
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Bradshaw. Mine only moved a little when I tried that. The pin through the mount wont let it mve up very much, and when I jacked it up it only looked like it just relieved the pressure on the rubber. The reason I decided to change them was the drivers side looked like it was sliding off the frame pad with the bolt still in place. I did notice that there is a large washer under the pin and it was distorted(on the under side by the bolt) after I removed them.
 
  #26  
Old 07-22-2007, 10:55 PM
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10-4. On mine the drivers side lifted noticibly because the rubber was torn in half but could not be seen from above. I guess mine did not have that pin in it. But I will never know, that truck is long gone. Thanks for the info.
 
  #27  
Old 07-23-2007, 12:00 PM
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Well saturday I pulled the drive shaft out and sure enough the front u-joint seemed ok in the truck but on the tailgate it had a little squeak when i tried to move it and as I tried to remove it I noticed small peices of metal coming out that used to be the needle bearings and were now cube/roundish shaped. Marked the driveshaft and slip yoke to the trans before removing, got the cheap $7 replacement joint (oh well) but after taking out the spring retainers i could not bang that thing out for my life, so I jsut dropped it off at the machine shop so they can press it out, and charge me an arm and a leg for labor.
Also I checked the rear pinion nut and it is tight, but there is a little play in it. not front to back just rotational, I could turn it by hand maybe 3-5 degrees, i lossened the nut and re tightened to make sure, is this a problem too?
 
  #28  
Old 07-23-2007, 12:17 PM
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do it to the torque it is supposed to be at.

those darned dry u-joints squeek every time.
 
  #29  
Old 07-23-2007, 02:26 PM
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Yeah there is a bit of rotational slop in my differential too, I don't think it's anything to worry about. I'm glad you found the sound you've been chasing. Good luck with the truck.
 
  #30  
Old 07-23-2007, 02:54 PM
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Next time you need to replace u-joints, go to autozone and rent a ball joint press. It's free, just leave a deposit and get it back when you return the tool. They double as a u-joint press and you can replace the u-joints under the truck in about 20 minutes.
 


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