Seized Rims
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Elder User
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From: Agawam,MA
Seized Rims
Hello out there, I think I saw something on this subject somewhere in this forum but not sure. Have 1991 F-150 with seized bleeder screw so want to take tire and caliper off, it took heat to get the lugs off but now the wheel will not budge. Tried hammering it, kicking it, heat, and RB Blaster overnight. Short of leaving the lugs off and going rock-crawling, (of course not actuallyan option I was considering) --someone out there must have dealt with this. Good thing I'm not out somewhere with a flat! --Also what is usually done to rims to prevent this kind of thing?
Thanks!!!
Thanks!!!
Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 11,289
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From: Lakewood, Ohio
with the truck on stands, not just a jack, and the wheel nuts off or almost off, hammer from the inside of the rim, try a large rubber mallet, heavy boots and a swift hick or a sledge hammer.
you can use wood to help soften the shock on the rim from the sledge.
you will need two people to do this.
rust around the center of wheel and hub is the culprit, grease or anti sieze may help for next time.
wear goggles!
you can use wood to help soften the shock on the rim from the sledge.
you will need two people to do this.
rust around the center of wheel and hub is the culprit, grease or anti sieze may help for next time.
wear goggles!
Last edited by quicklook2; Jul 17, 2007 at 04:15 PM.
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From: Agawam,MA
Thamks.. It's already up on 3 ton jack stands.. Tried these things, but apparently the missing ingredient is time. Just have to keep beating on it. I assume by "2 people to do this" that we need to beat or kick opposite sides of the tire at the same time. Thanks for reply!
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From: Agawam,MA
Thanks again. The wood is probably best because behind the wheel there is not a lot of rim to hit, the rest of the area is covered by the rotor shield. I'll get it off. So, just ordinary WD 40 or similar on the inner rim before putting it back on will prevent or reduce this? It does seem to be a very tight fit between the rim and the 4x4 hub.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2003
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Ran into this problem on one of my old girlfriend's trucks. With the vehicle on jackstands, and all the lug nuts off, except for one, which was on very loosely, not even hand tight, have someone in the driver's seat to operate the brakes. Spin the tire / wheel as fast as you can by hand and have them stab the brake. Rotate it in the other direction as fast as you can and have them stab the brake and just keep repeating. It may take quite a few tries, but has worked for me in the past. Once it's off, clean the mating surfaces of the wheel and drum / rotor with a wire brush, then apply a thin coating of anti-seize.
Last edited by jade79; Jul 17, 2007 at 04:58 PM.
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From: Agawam,MA
Hey, thanks! Problem with this is the brakes don't work in the front. I had to replace some lengths of steel brake line, went to bleed this wheel out and can't budge the bleeder screw. Can't get a socket on it because the screw is too close to the ball joint knuckle. So wanted to pull the wheel and the caliper and either wrestle with the bleeder screw on the bench or simply replace the caliper, this time being sure to remove its bleeder and coat the threads a little with anti-seize, etc.
Do you think I would get the same effect if I leave the lugs loose, lower the truck and pop the clutch a couple times in 4WD mode, of course? It seems like it might because the effect would be to have the hub trying to move the truck but nothing holding the wheel to the hub except rust. Of course the lugs would be on so the tire doesn't come off with the truck unsupported.
Do you think I would get the same effect if I leave the lugs loose, lower the truck and pop the clutch a couple times in 4WD mode, of course? It seems like it might because the effect would be to have the hub trying to move the truck but nothing holding the wheel to the hub except rust. Of course the lugs would be on so the tire doesn't come off with the truck unsupported.
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Post Fiend
Joined: May 2004
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From: Lakewood, Ohio
the method i am describing has always worked.
with no brakes what you just described sounds dangerous.
with no brakes what you just described sounds dangerous.
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Elder User
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From: Agawam,MA
Thanks to quicklook 2. I will be doing what you described. BTW the rear brakes are fine, I was able to get a socket on the rear bleeders and replaced them, so the rear brakes are fine. The fronts are the ones that need bleeding and will likely be taking both those calipers off. Vise grips won't help on these things either. Likely will lust break or crush the bleeder screw.
thanks!
thanks!
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Elder User
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From: Agawam,MA
Thanks to graveyardshift. This one is really stuck good. The last time it was off was when the tires went on new 5 years ago, and they cranked the lugs good with the air gun, so beating on the tire with the sledge might not work too good because the tire will soften the blows from the hammer. The rust on that hub needs to die hard
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From: Agawam,MA
Thanks quicklook2. well, I'm losing daylight so best get out there and get working on that. I appreciate the time you and the others took to reply. The suggestions of old-time mechanics are always valuable for things like these. I'll post what hapens later on, but will be away from this computer a while.
Elder User
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From: Solon, Ohio
Best way to free up bleeders is to make sure the hole is clean and shoot PB Blaster into the hole, several times 10 minutes apart. Inside is where the corosion is.
Also, Sears has these neat stripped nut extractors, like an outside in instead of an inside out easy out. They are great on bleeders because you can turn them from the side with an open end wrench. I have every size they make, and the smaller ones are great as stud extractors and they can also be used to grab around the head of a stripped phillips screw.
As far as the tire and rim, PB Blaster and heat at the rim near the center hub, then a 16 pound sledge hit to the tire from the inside out, being very careful of course.
Also, Sears has these neat stripped nut extractors, like an outside in instead of an inside out easy out. They are great on bleeders because you can turn them from the side with an open end wrench. I have every size they make, and the smaller ones are great as stud extractors and they can also be used to grab around the head of a stripped phillips screw.
As far as the tire and rim, PB Blaster and heat at the rim near the center hub, then a 16 pound sledge hit to the tire from the inside out, being very careful of course.
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From: Agawam,MA
Thanks netscaner for the bleeder screw tip. While fighting with the one rim I will do that blaster in the other screw, which I have not tried yet and is not damaged.
As for the rim, lights out for today, so I heated it and resoaked with penetrating oil (PB Blaster-- I wonder which penetrant is most popular...) and have at it again tomorrow. Fortunately there is no hurry to use this truck right now so can take time and be careful with it.
As for the rim, lights out for today, so I heated it and resoaked with penetrating oil (PB Blaster-- I wonder which penetrant is most popular...) and have at it again tomorrow. Fortunately there is no hurry to use this truck right now so can take time and be careful with it.