What is the best way to remove chrome from a grill (or any part for that mater I guess)? I have a '57 grill that needs a little body work then re-chromed. I need to weld a few cracks, patch a hole and get rid of a couple dents. No local chroms shops so it will eventually have to be shipped somplace to finish it.

Anyone with a good idea?

Thanks,
SPark

 

I know Sulperic Acid will remove chrome, I've seen it done in a chrome shop, but if you don't have one nearby, then maybe a Rad Shop will do it for you. Don't leave it in there to long usually a quick dip does the job. Then rinse it off with water, and don't inhale the fumes, or get to close to it.

 

Here is some info I copied off other sites:

There are two common ways to remove chrome, Maunie. The first is hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid). The second is reverse current alkaline stripping--essentially, putting the part in an electrocleaning tank.

The first is fast and simple, but can attack the substrate. The second will not attack the substrate but is more complicated, and it generates hexavalent chromium.

What is critical to remember is that these procedures remove chrome metal, but consumers commonly use the parlance 'chrome plating' when referring to decorative multilayer copper-nickel-chrome plating. So after the chromium is stripped, you still have nickel plating--which doesn't look a whole lot different to the untrained eye

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Jim, I used to do a little brass refinnishing and among the most popular items were the Alladin and Rayo lamps, which were orriginally chromed. The proceedure is very much the same as removing rust but with different chemical. First, degrease completely and scrub thoroughly with detergent. Mix 1 cup of Muriatic acid with 3 gallons of water in a plastic bucket. NOTE; ALWAYS ADD ACID TO WATER. NEVER WATER TO ACID !!! (It WILL explode) Hang two or three copper wires (#12 or larger) around sides of bucket. Connect these to ground of battery charger. Hang item to be dechromed in fluid with positive lead connected. Be sure part doesn"t touch ground wires. Within a few seconds or minutes, depending on thickness of chrome, it should come clean. More or less time as required. When finnished, wash parts in mild soda water solution to nutralize acid. (Do this right way to prevent rust) As with any caustic acid, handle with care. Dave H.--

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What we have done here is very aggressive sand blast, it takes time, but its a lot cheaper. Depending on the quality of chrome, it will go fast or slow. IF its triple striked chrome, that is Copper, Nickel, Chrome, the Chrome and Nickel will come off with sand blast, but the Copper will take sanding or wire brushing, we usually paint over the copper. Another trick we have found, is if you can crack the crome, chip some away, it will speed up the sand blast process. It lets the sand penetrate under the chrome.

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To remove Chrome and Rust
first you will need a tank large enough to hold the part a piece of stainless steel size depends on the part you are de plating a power source battery charger will work
there are different type of Acid Pickles they are explained in greater detail on pages 34 35 and 36
of the Caswells Plating Manual
WARNING ! Never pour water into Acid always pour acid into water
Pickle 1 used for mild etching before plating
to make this solution
20 parts fresh water to 1 part muriatic Acid for etching soak part for 1 to 15 minn 1 hour will remove rust from most steel

Pickle 2 also rust remover and de- plater
to make
2 parts fresh water 1 part muriatic acid
to remove Chrome hook you positive lead to you part and your negative lead to the stainless
adjust your power to 1 amp per sq inch de-plating should be complete in approx 15 to 20 minn
DO NOT use this method on Pot metals or aluminum !!!!
Caswell’s recommends’s using Anodize & Chrome Stripper to remove chrome plate
this system is less harmful to the base metal .
There are also other ways Caswells sells a scrubber wheel that works great sand or bed blasting if you do not have a bead blaster Caswells also sells an abrasive nylon wheel 6" part number NBB595 for 7.04 works great also I use al these methods
Remember when plating with copy chrome 1 amp per 32 sq inches
lets say the part is 46 sq inches
this would be 46 devided by 32 would give you 1.4375 amps round down too one amp plate out side items for 1.5 hrs

 

If you are going to send it off to be rechromed, and are repairing the piece rather than modifying it, It would be best to let the chrome shop do any straightening and repairs. They do it all the time, and know how to do it best. DIY could end up costing you more to undo an improperly repaired area, may make the piece unrepairable/rechromable, or the plating shop to completely refuse the job.
The plating is only as good as the metal surface under it, so a quality shop will strip it, staighten/repair it then polish the piece completely before replating it.

 

Have you discussed the repair with the chrome shop? They typically make those kind of repairs. I had my bumpers and guards done and the repairs were invisable. The price may not be that much more to have them do the repairs. Jag

 

Packrat

Thanks for the safety tip on the Acid. Never knew that adding water to this would cause a dangerous reaction.
I really appreciate the safety tip.

 

It will explode VIOLENTLY if you add water to a strong acid! Even when adding acid to water pour it in slowly into COLD water while gently stirring the "brew" with a plastic mixing rod. You'll be surprised how hot it will get. (I cracked a toilet bowl by pouring in a cup of muriatic acid to unclog a drain.)
(Believe it or not I was once a nuclear chemist!)

 

Ax, say this with a Jersey accent....Do as you ought-ta, add acid to wawt-ta.

 

For me it was do it in the order of the alphabet: A - W.

 

Love it! Thanks...

 

Interesting.. I may try the rust removal part on some small stuff I took off that 54.

 

I use electrolysis on old engine parts (from the teens and twenties) Here is a good explanation:

http://royalcrossfarm.com/electrolysis.htm