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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 12:07 AM
  #16  
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Simple fix for the non-roller blocks is to use a 351W camshaft in it (same firing order as the 5.0 HO). Save time and a big wad of money.....
 
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 01:14 AM
  #17  
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There are differences among the 302/5.0/HO 5.0 crankshafts. Crankshafts from engines of 1983 and later (or so, I'm not sure of the date) are 50 oz.in. unbalance. Crankshafts before that are 28 oz. in. unbalance. Later cranks also switched to a one piece rear seal. I don't know the exact date again, it would be great if it were the same time that they went to 50 oz. in. unbalance.
So you have to insure that the crank you use matches the flywheel and damper for unbalance, and the block for style of rear main seal.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 05:25 AM
  #18  
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If your block is roller capable you can.
The Mustangs were Speed density from 86-88 with HO roller cams (except CA. cars that went MAF in 88) The Mark VII's were all speed density with the same HO roller motor as the Mustangs.
So the answer is yes, if you have a roller capable block, it will run fine with a speed density set-up, just change your plug wires to the 351W firing order. The injector wiring should be fine since the trucks are batch fired with SD.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 09:43 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by rustfarmer
Sorry to drop in on the thread but.....I have a speed density setup from a 89 van. Its in a 54 ford truck. Can I switch to a cam for a mass air motor?
We should be carefull here... exactly waht cam is this, a factory cam or something aftermarket? The factory MAF cams are also SD compatible, so it will drop in and work with the SD computer, but the aftermarket cams typically have short lobe center angles which are not SD safe.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 12:18 PM
  #20  
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Conanski,
I believe the motor is all stock. The PO told me it's from a 89 E150. It has the truck style intake with two inlets. I have been prepping the motor to be pulled to change the bad homemade motor mounts. I'm new to the whole EFI thing so I have been trying to figure out things as I go. I checked the computer and could find no markings at all. The present firing order is 1,5,4,2,6,3,7,8. The reason I would like to change the cam while the motor is out is because I would like to switch over to a Mustang style Mass air. I am still collecting the parts to do that. I am not sure yet if the cam is a roller style. I haven't pulled the lower intake yet. I'm hping it is a roller style and I can switch to a stock mustang cam.

Thanks for all the help,
rustfarmer
 
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 07:25 PM
  #21  
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You are right all trucks 92 and on with the 5.0 were roller and the roller block came in as early as 85 in some ltd's and mustangs. The roller 5.8 came in the trucks and vans but the lightning was still hydralic. The trucks went Mass Air in 95 and 96. The Mustang became MAF in most 90 models but not all models until 93. But what I was getting at was that to put a mass air cam such as an E or B Ford Racing cam in a speed density vehicle you have to change the FI harness or cut and re-route it and change the firing order to the HO or windsor order.
 
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Old Aug 6, 2007 | 07:27 PM
  #22  
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That motor if it is factory is probably not roller all though you can have it tapped and drilled for the spider tray at any local machine shop.
 
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 10:14 AM
  #23  
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89 pickup/van 5.0 will have a roller block with a flat tappet cam. Beware though the spyder hold down bolt bosses, not all are fully formed and these cannot be drilled and tapped. You would have to remove the boss first before doing this operation. I have two spare roller 5.0 blocks from pickups, one has the bosses fully formed, the other they're half formed. The mass air roller cam from the 94-up pickup/van 5.0 used the 351W firing order but was used with both systems (SD & MAF)
 
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 12:52 PM
  #24  
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Guys, thanks for the help. I checked the numbers near the starter. It was E7TE also had a big S near that. I still need to pull the motor then remove the lower intake. I'm hoping to pull the motor this Sunday.

Baddad457, you know of any links I can go to to see what the bosses look like. Is it worth it to have this block tapped and drilled by a machine shop? Will the motor have to be torn down to a bare block to do this? Or should I just look for another block one that's already set up for a roller cam?

Thanks for all the help once again. This is all new to me and the help on the FTE is invaluable!

rustfarmer
 
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Old Aug 7, 2007 | 10:46 PM
  #25  
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The normal bosses are about 1/2" in diameter and about 1/4" tall. The block I have with the not so normal bosses, they're only about 1/4" in diamater and 1/4" tall. You can drill and tap these yourself, just be careful on how deep you drill, unless you're going to replace the cam bearings in a rebuild anyway. The drilled holes only need to be about 1/2"-3/4" deep for the hold down bolts. It also can be done in an assembled motor if neccessary, just watch the shavings. I'd send you pics, but can't swing the time at this point in the week.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 01:27 AM
  #26  
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baddad457,
Thanks again for the help. Hopefull all goes well. I cut out the shoddy home made motor mounts today. Hopefully I can pull the motor this Sunday....If the wife will alow it......Does anyone know if I can switch out the truck intake and throttle body and run a mustang HO one while still running the speed density computer? I'm still tying to scrounge up the rest of the parts to go Mass Air.....Thanks again for all the help guys!!!!
 
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 09:06 AM
  #27  
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Yes you can run the Mustang intake no problem. You would have to change your throttle cables and use the truck fuel rail on the mustang lower so you don't have to move your fuel lines.
 
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 12:30 PM
  #28  
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Cool....Glad to hear I can run the Mustang while still on speed density! My truck intake has a throttle cable bracket that also holds the auto trans kickdown. Are there different throttle bracket styles between 5speed and automatic?

Thanks again everyone for the help,
rustfarmer
 
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Old Aug 8, 2007 | 07:04 PM
  #29  
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As far as I know the throttle bracket is the same for both, just the one cable isn't used.
 
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