So I am finally getting around to replacing the lock actuators, three of them, and I can't figger out how to get the stupid things out . I know that read about them here before, what's the trick to getting the module out of the door?

Scott Johnson
201 F-350, 6637 Mod, remote starter, Rancho RSX Shocks

 

you have to remove the entire latch from inside the door. The three bolts from the outside and all of the actuator rod's.
hope this helps
Billy

 

If you drill out the rivet that holds the actuator in you may be able to remove it without taking out the latch....

 

try this link it explains it and its how I fixed mine.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...cks-fixed.html

 

that was the write up i used and did all 4 of mine it took about an hour for the first one and about 15 min for the other three. they work great now and didnt cost a dime.YES!!

 

I've done a few of these, a couple of them recently.

I highly recommend the "penny" method instead of the aluminum foil, though my first two were foiled.

Pop

 

Thanks for the help guys!! I'llhave to try again on my next day off.

Scott Johnson
2001 F-350, 6637 mod., Remote start, Rancho RSX

 

One of my door locks just kicked the bucket....what's the penny method ?

 

I think you just cut a penny to the same size as the little resistor and use it in the resistors place. I used the tin foil method about 8 months ago and still going strong.

 

Does anybody have a more detailed information on the "Penny trick" verses the tin foil?

 

Ummmm, before I begin on my 3. What is the procedure to remove rear door panels? I always seem to break some plastic on other vehicles. Thanks guys

 

If I remeber correctly behind the reflector in the door is a screw. Basically comes off the same way as the front ones. Maybe one more screw by the handle.

The "penny" method is just cutting it in half and then make it so its the same size as the resistor. I just used some dikes to cut it. You can fix two doors for the grand price of $0.01. The foil is a good idea but it might end up getting cut a little when sliding the resistor back in. If you use the penny just put some dielectric grease on it and it should be good.

 

Yes, there is a screw behind the reflector and one behind the handle. You have to pop off the the handle part where the power window switch is, then just raise the panel and it will come out. I did mine yesterday and it works. It took me a while to figure out where the screws were but I finally got it. I used the foil method, but will try the penny method on the two other doors to see which one last longer. The only problem I had was that the lock does not raise or lower all the way, but it still locks and unlocks. One more thing, when I use the keyless entry remote, the motor that I fixed works backwards. When I tell it to lock, it unlocks and so on, but I read some where’s on here that to fix that, you just unhook the batteries to reset the computer and it works after that.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>

 

no dont unhook the batteries, i had the same problem on one of mine when i did it, the little motor that you took apart to put in the foil the plastic end you took off, when you put it back together you put it on backwards. I did the wsame thing and it messed me up so I tore it all apart again and just hand flip the plastic end of the motor 180 and it works right

 

Chriz, definately just flip the motor over. I think in the heavy duty forum there is a topic on the door locks and someone else had the same problem. Here is the link to it https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/4...cks-fixed.html .This is the original link I used about a year ago when I did mine.