I have electric door locks, but only the passenger side works.

I just ran up to the store annd locked the passenger side electrically as I usually do, then locked the drivers side with the key.

When I came out and tried to unlock with the key, the button seemed to only come up part way and the door wouldn't open. Thank God, the passenger side opened with the key.

I climbed in through the passenger side and tried the interior dood handle. It seems to have full travel, but the door won't open.

As a side note, the door lock switch no longer opens the passenger door lock.

I tried lifting the door button more with a pliers, but it seems not to want to travel any higher.

I checked on the passenger side, and noticed that when you push in the handle button while the door is locked, it just goes in and does nothing. With the door unlocked, the handle button seems to engage something and open the door.

On the drivers side the handle button just goes in and doesn't engage anything and neither does the interior door handle.

I just drove 50 miles picking up a new door panel I installed last week because the previos owner had trashed it. I wonder if it will come off in one piece with the door closed ?

Has anyone got any ideas ?????

Does anyone know exactly where the problem might be in the door ?????

HELP !!!!!!

 

take panels off and see what is disconnected, bent or missing a clip.

 

I havn't gotten the panel off yet, gonna be a bitch with the door closed and 90+ heat out there.

If I remember from the panel being off last week, there is no easy way to get to the latch with out a real long skinny arm.

The latch bolts are locked in because the door won't open.

 

Does anyone have a drawing showing the hookups around the latch ???

 

My actuator for power locks went bad and bound up ,while I was out town . I cut the rod on it and door worked till got home. Then took the parts off my parts truck . And a slim=jim wont help I had door panel off and couldn't open with me pull/pushing directly on rods. I took actuator loose (was bolted /replaced ) And lock would work with key.

Good luck Take other door panel off and use take pictures of linkage and blow up on PC. If the rubber cover is still on you wont see much

Good luck

 

Well, it's a little cooler now, so I attacked it again.
I got the screws out along the bottom of the door panel, but there's one screw at the top blinded by the side of the dash board (just below the headlight switch).
Hopefully in the morning I will be able to drill in just the right place through the side of the dashboard with the instrument cluster cover removed.
If I can get that screw out, possibly I can get the panel off without breaking it.
It has to come up then off if I remember.
If not, there is a plastic pouch type of insert like a small map pouch right in front of where the latch assembly is. I can cut a hole in it to try to get the door open, then replace the pouch/pocket type thing with the one off of my old panel.

Further playing with it, pulling on the button and turning the key at the same time, clearly neither the button nor the keylock travel far enough to the unlock position, but will go to the fully locked position.

 

did you try unlocking with a key with the battery unhooked?

 

Nope, but maybe you have something there being that the passenger door stopped working also. But it's lock works great manually. Maybe something goofy in the switch.
I'll give it a try in the morning.

 

I have the schematic, IM me a email addy to send it to.

B

 

Thanks Liemavick.........But I got it under control, but still not totally repaired, LOL

After removing the instrument cluster cover, and then the headlight switch, I was able to drill a hole exactly opposite the blinded screw hole in the door panel, only to find and then remember that I was short one screw and never put one in, LOL.

I was able to get it jerked up and got the top off along the window where I was able to jam a rod down in and push while lifting the inside door handle. The door popped open.

I then with the panel removed saw that something was bent down on the latch that kept the inside door handle from forcing the button up as part of it's opening operation.

After screwing around with it for a while I came to the realization that if I tried the outside button with the door locked before I unlocked it, it jammed up.

I tested it and all seemed well so I put it totally together again, door panel and all, leaving the orange handled screw driver the idiot PO had left in the bottom of the door. I locked it and tested it and WAM, it jammed with the door closed again.

So I tore it all apart again, and took out everything including the door latch mechanism which was a bear till I realized that you had to have the window up to remove it. It was all bent out of wack and I had to realign everything. I removed the defective power solenoid and left it out. And I removed the orange handled screwdriver which is a handy size.

I don't need the drawing now cause cause I've had the guts in my hand in open sunlight, LOL. And I was able to figure out the rod retaining clips by feel.

Thanks for the offer, Sorry, I should not have left this thread unfinished.

 

My truck does that if I hit the outside button and then try to unlock it with the key. I then have to mess around to get it to open.

 

Mine still does that too warthog5.
I havn't had a chance to tear it apart again and reexamine the lock assembly.
I have found that by removing the inner weather strip along the window sill, I can get a special 3/8's soft steel rod with a "V" slot cut into the end of it to grip the button rod and pull it back up. Might possibly be a missing or broken spring, or still part of the lock mechanism is bent.

 

Mine too after replacing the cable, broken handle and lubing everything. Haven't torn it apart again to find out why. If the button is pushed while locked, I have to crawl in the passenger side and mess around with it to open.

If anyone knows the fix please post.

 

i've got a '98 Explorer Sport &
I had the solenoid for the rear hatch burn out, just had to replace that and everything was peachy. Now, the drivers side door is doing the same thing as the hatch was before. except the key won't even work to open the door. the window and door locks on the drivers side will unlock all doors except the drivers side, so I know that the solenoid/"door lock actuator" is just burned out. its getting power

Who can explain to me how they got their door panel opened up without breaking anything?
Schematic/pics?

Autozone wants $58.99 for the actuator (no warranty)
The dealership wants $110 for the actuator, and $130 to put it in.

I seem to remember seeing a forum talk about going in thru the OUTSIDE of the door by taking out the 2 screws under the handle. idk, it COULD be something bent or broken too...

help?

 

Did you read what was posted above ????

Try pushing the outside door button on the good side to get the feel of it.
Then try pushing the door button on the bad side.
If the bad side seems to go in too easy for about the first half of the push, then get real hard, then it is caused by the door open button assembly.
There is a rod that goes down along the window guide that has to be pulled up somehow within the door, then the door will unlock with the key and perhaps the inner door handle. Your window should be down while doing this and the inner weather strip along the window (carfully)removed.

You also can remove the door panel from within with the door closed, but you have to get out the screw blinded by the dash.