Hi guys, I'm new around here. I'm a reformed Mopar & Chevy man. I've got a 79 F100 with a stock 302 and a four speed (not the creeper gear trans, the other one where 4th gear is like overdrive, I guess you all know what I mean) with a 9inch out back. Not being all that knowledgeable on Fords, I'd like to know a few things. I'm planning on turning this into my fun truck, but I'm a bit unknowing.

Specifically, can I put 351 cleveland heads on this block?
If so, can I still use a aftermarket small block intake manifold?
This is a short wheelbase truck, which I'd like to set up for low and midrange torque.
If 351 heads don't work, what options do I have for my stock heads? Can I go bigger on valve size? Should I? ( Not sure, but I believe this is the stock 79 motor, I would think it needs a little help breathing.)
Any recommendations on cams? (remember I'm interested in torque)
Should I stay with a @ 600 cfm carb, or can I go bigger without losing torque?
Should this engine have a smog pump?(I know I don't WANT it, I was just wondering if this belongs there. It's got one, which caused all kinds of headaches trying to locate all the stupid plumbing for inspection)Can I get away with taking it off?
Is my tranny usefull for this application? I'd like to keep it, but if it's not suitable for performance it'll have to go.

Basically this is all prompted by the fact that my motor needs a rebuild BAD! Rings and seals all pretty shot. All this is assuming that the block is okay, but I'd like to punch her out at least .030" over. I might get a junkyard motor to drive around on while I'm doing all this, and if so, will any 302 non-H.O. motor work? Somewhere I thought I heard something about crankshafts and tranny pilot shafts and holes lining up and all, Does anybody know what I mean? I thought there was one type of crank for an auto, and another for a manual.

I live in PA, near enough to Philly to wish I didn't, anybody else familiar with our emissions/performance mods regulations? Basically, I'd like to build this:

302, aftermarket intake & 4bbl;
351 heads if possible, stock if not;
stock 4spd overdrive manual tranny/Hurst shifter;
9inch/@ 3.23 or 3.5ish diff gears;
Headers, one performance cat and one perf. muffler per side;
As little smog crap as I can get away with;
All the normal ignition mods.

Thanks, guys in advance for the help. Sorry so wordy, but I get this way when a new bug bites me. Any advice/critique welcome.

Rob.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-May-02 AT 09:47 PM (EST)]Mauserbob, If torque is what you're looking for, you don't want the Cleveland heads. Besides being a little tough to adapt to your engine, the ports are too big for torque. Great for high RPM horsepower though. Your stock heads would be of an open chamber/lower compression design. You could have larger 1.90/1.60 Chevy valves installed quite easily, but you would get more bang for your buck if you do the same mod to a pre 1970 set of closed chamber 289/302/351 heads, because of the higher compression. If you could find a set of 1969 351W 4 barrel heads, they would already have the larger valves. If you have the cash, a new set of aftermarket heads is the best choice. For a cam, you should use a split lift and duration cam. The exhaust figure for lift and duration would be higher then the intake, to help out the small blocks weak exhaust ports. Don't get a cam with a high duration, because that kills your torque. Get a double roller timing set with a 3 position crank gear, and advance your cam 4 degrees. This makes your torque peak at about 500 RPM's lower then if installed straight up. For your intake, go with a low or medium rise dual plane unit. Several companies make good manifolds. For the carb, even a 500 cfm would be plenty for what you seem to want. Most use the 600 cfm though. Just make sure you get a vacuum secondary carb. I like the Demon line of carbs the best, but because of price, I use an Edelbrock on one, and a Holley on another engine. I haven't found a 302 crank yet that wasn't drilled for a pilot bushing/bearing. Any junkyard 302 will work for you. You need to make sure you buy a pre 1981 for balance reasons if you intend on using your existing flywheel. The imbalance was changed on the 302 in 81. if you used a post 81 engine with your flywheel, the engine would literally shake itself to death. As to the PA inspection laws, I have not a clue.

 

Thanks for the advice, Steve. So what about my tranny? Is this any good for performance? Or should I rip it out and go with a C-6? I'd like to keep the 4 speed if I could. And as for headers, will I have to go with shorty Mustang tubes, or do you think normal, longer ones will fit. I know I seem to have a good amount of room in there, but it looks kinda dicey around the shift linkage.
If I went with 351W heads, will I really see much of a difference over the stock 302 heads? I don't want to get too exotic with aftermarket heads yet. Wife and budget, you know.

Thanks again.

Rob.

 

Your tranny isn't exactly a performance trans for racing or whatever. The long shifter makes for slower shifts, and there's a few other reasons. It IS however a good, tough transmission. If you like it, I would keep it. After all, how often will you be using your truck as a performance vehicle. As far as headers go, I'm sure you could find some good long tube tuned headers to fit your truck. This really isn't a place to try and save money. If you're going to buy them, buy a good set that will last and not give you problems. That translates to more expensive. With the correct 351W heads, you would have higher compression and larger valves then you have now (10:1 instead of about 8.5:1). Most stock 302 truck heads are low compression/open chamber and have smaller valves. By itself it would only mean about a 35 or 40 horsepower difference over your stock heads. Throw a performance cam into the picture, and your performance gains would be quite a bit higher with the better heads. Of course you can always work on your stock heads to make them flow better. A three angle valve job, port match your intake and exhaust ports to a good set of performance gaskets, and grind off the emissions bumps on the exhaust ports. Pay more attention to the exhaust side. You can do all of that yourself with a Dremmel tool, or better yet, the Black and Decker equivilant. Except for the 3 angle valve job. Do the porting first, and then have the valve job done in case you slip. A lot of parts stores loan out tools with a deposit. You could borrow/rent a valve spring compressor if you don't have one. I could go on, but it looks like I'm trying to write a book.