leaky power steering
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Carrboro, NC
leaky power steering
Hi all! I just became the proud owner of an '89 aerostar. The car had sat for a while (maybe 8 months to a year), so the first thing I did was an oil change and check any other fluids. The power steering fluid seemed dry, so I filled it up. That took care of the noisiness when the wheel was turned. However it looked like the fluid was low again (after working the air out and verifying levels) and sure enough there was a little spot under the van. I went and got some of the "power steering and leak fix" stuff from autozone and filled and bled air again. The leak definately seems to have slowed, but it is still there. I wiped off everything that was covered in PS oil and tried to identify where the oil is leaking from and it looks like the leak is where the steering column connects the system (at the pump?). My question is a) is that the pump that the steering wheel connects to? If not what is it? and b) how do I go about repairing this?
The van runs great and I drove it about 270 miles to get it home and there were no problems at all, however when I got off the highway the power steering oil was obviously low/gone as it was a bear to steer.
The van runs great and I drove it about 270 miles to get it home and there were no problems at all, however when I got off the highway the power steering oil was obviously low/gone as it was a bear to steer.
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New User
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Carrboro, NC
Originally Posted by ken1mod
I have "fixed" two hondas and 1 aero by adding the thick stp oil treatment to the system. I know it is more correct to fix the problem but this has worked for me. It's cheap.
Ken
Ken
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Joined: Aug 2003
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by saulecker
thick stp power steering oil, or some other kind of stop oil? The stuff I put in for the "leak stop" was supposed to make all the seals happy and thicken them up some. It certainly slowed the leak, but it still leaks.
Your steering column ends in sort of a u joint that connects to the rack and pinion unit. There is a rebuild kit available with new seals, etc. for rack. From what I understand it is a real PITA to do. You have to drop the rack to make it easier on yourself; but on the other hand, if you have to drop the rack, for 60 some odd bucks you can get a rebuilt rack and replace it......
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Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Carrboro, NC
Originally Posted by cookkd
Neighbor put me on "Lucas". Wish I had known about it years ago, stuff works great.
It may be a seal at the top of the rack and pinion unit then. The part the extends to the passenger side of the unit is dry while the driver side is oily. That's the side the leak in on as well. I think it's just oily from drips from about where that u joint is.
Thanks!
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Joined: Dec 2004
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From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Running the PS pump low on (or out of fluid) can cost you a lot of money you can burn up the pump or its shaft oil seal. A new pump costs alot more then a new rack.
In my experience those stop leak products don't work well on shaft seals so if your leak is there their performance will be nominal at best.
Check the simple things first like the pressure line (mounted on the right side of the pump and its swivel fitting that likes to leak). Check the return line which is a rubber hose secured by a hose clamp at the back of the pump. Also check all of the hoses on the rack including the fittings for leakage.
If those turn up zilch check out the input shaft oil seal.
If thats ok check the tie rod seals.
If you want to save some green buy a reseal kit and replace the rack seals and you'll be good as new.
In my experience those stop leak products don't work well on shaft seals so if your leak is there their performance will be nominal at best.
Check the simple things first like the pressure line (mounted on the right side of the pump and its swivel fitting that likes to leak). Check the return line which is a rubber hose secured by a hose clamp at the back of the pump. Also check all of the hoses on the rack including the fittings for leakage.
If those turn up zilch check out the input shaft oil seal.
If thats ok check the tie rod seals.
If you want to save some green buy a reseal kit and replace the rack seals and you'll be good as new.
Last edited by krankshaft; Jul 9, 2007 at 05:57 PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Washington state
seals dry up and harden on a rig that has set that long
both the Lucas and STP have extra heavy dose of seal conditioners swellers and thick viscosity
give one of them at try and at least 2 weeks to work
if they don't stop the seal leak, then the seal is torn or the top bearing/bushing is worn out and the rest of the rack/pinion is in the same shape....they usually only last 100k>150k depending on hwy or intown driving patterns
keep the system full of ATF or will cost both new rack and new pump
use cheapest DextronIII/Mercon ATF you can find, the Walmart stuff is fine until you get the leak stopped/repaired
both the Lucas and STP have extra heavy dose of seal conditioners swellers and thick viscosity
give one of them at try and at least 2 weeks to work
if they don't stop the seal leak, then the seal is torn or the top bearing/bushing is worn out and the rest of the rack/pinion is in the same shape....they usually only last 100k>150k depending on hwy or intown driving patterns
keep the system full of ATF or will cost both new rack and new pump
use cheapest DextronIII/Mercon ATF you can find, the Walmart stuff is fine until you get the leak stopped/repaired
Last edited by 96_4wdr; Jul 9, 2007 at 06:09 PM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 5,242
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From: Kiev, Ukraine
My leaky PS was fixed. I had to replace ALL THE SEALS. 2 of them are difficult to remove. Pinion shaft was polished.
One tip. If upper seal leaks only it is easy to remove it w/o disassembling all the R'n'P. I used to remove lock ring and used compressed air. 8 BAR makes seal to fly away....
One tip. If upper seal leaks only it is easy to remove it w/o disassembling all the R'n'P. I used to remove lock ring and used compressed air. 8 BAR makes seal to fly away....
Thread Starter
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New User
Joined: Jul 2007
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From: Carrboro, NC
Originally Posted by 96_4wdr
seals dry up and harden on a rig that has set that long
both the Lucas and STP have extra heavy dose of seal conditioners swellers and thick viscosity
give one of them at try and at least 2 weeks to work
if they don't stop the seal leak, then the seal is torn or the top bearing/bushing is worn out and the rest of the rack/pinion is in the same shape....they usually only last 100k>150k depending on hwy or intown driving patterns
keep the system full of ATF or will cost both new rack and new pump
use cheapest DextronIII/Mercon ATF you can find, the Walmart stuff is fine until you get the leak stopped/repaired
both the Lucas and STP have extra heavy dose of seal conditioners swellers and thick viscosity
give one of them at try and at least 2 weeks to work
if they don't stop the seal leak, then the seal is torn or the top bearing/bushing is worn out and the rest of the rack/pinion is in the same shape....they usually only last 100k>150k depending on hwy or intown driving patterns
keep the system full of ATF or will cost both new rack and new pump
use cheapest DextronIII/Mercon ATF you can find, the Walmart stuff is fine until you get the leak stopped/repaired