6.0 problems
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From: patterson, ca
6.0 problems
just got back from the mountains, fun vacation, not so fun trip. started by overheating climing a grade. granted i was towing a 6000 lb trailer, but at 11 at night, at 45-50 mph! i have also nitced that it will not tow faster than 55 on flatland without overheating. secondly, went to fire it up to leave and the trany wouldnot engage. i messed with some fuses and nothing. after 20 min, i shut it off, started it back up, and it worked, the tow/haul light was also flashing. i'm at a loss, the dealer cant get to it for a few days. any thought would be greatly appreciated.
its an 05 4x4 with 50000,
its an 05 4x4 with 50000,
Last edited by MOB.Diesel-350; Jul 9, 2007 at 12:54 PM.
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From: SoCal, SD CO. East
Originally Posted by MOB.Diesel-350
dealer wont even look at it for two days, might take it to another one. no warning lights either
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From: SoCal, SD CO. East
Parts guys are not techs (usually)
Originally Posted by MOB.Diesel-350
went to auto zone, their scanner didn't pull any codes, the guy said it was because there was no check engine light.
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From: patterson, ca
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From: SoCal, SD CO. East
R U out of warranty???
Originally Posted by MOB.Diesel-350
so i took the truck to the dealer this morning, $252.00 just to try and diagnose the problems
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From: Arizona
Originally Posted by MOB.Diesel-350
so i took the truck to the dealer this morning, $252.00 just to try and diagnose the problems
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From: patterson, ca
i asked the dealer about the warranty, he said its just for the motor, the trany is not covered, hence the extra cost.
they pressure tested the coolant system, and it checked out ok. talking to some other people i know, they thought it sounded like a head gasket. and what do ya know, that was the next thing they were going to try and diagnose.
they were also able to pull two codes for the trany. i believe they were p2700 and p2701. basically it sounded like the clutchpacks. they are now going to drop the pan and look for any debri.
they pressure tested the coolant system, and it checked out ok. talking to some other people i know, they thought it sounded like a head gasket. and what do ya know, that was the next thing they were going to try and diagnose.
they were also able to pull two codes for the trany. i believe they were p2700 and p2701. basically it sounded like the clutchpacks. they are now going to drop the pan and look for any debri.
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From: patterson, ca
BLOWN HEAD GASKET(s)! they havent pulled the motor apart yet, but they foud fuel in the coolant, and you can feel pressure when you put your hand over the rad filler, all indicating blown gaskets. but is this common an a stock motor? i have the banks turbo back exhaust, and thats it. so what caused it?
test drove an 08 by the way. nice but not impressed enough to deal with all the emissions crud. even with all her probs, ill keep my 6-oh.
test drove an 08 by the way. nice but not impressed enough to deal with all the emissions crud. even with all her probs, ill keep my 6-oh.
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From: Arizona
Originally Posted by MOB.Diesel-350
BLOWN HEAD GASKET(s)! they havent pulled the motor apart yet, but they foud fuel in the coolant, and you can feel pressure when you put your hand over the rad filler, all indicating blown gaskets. but is this common an a stock motor? i have the banks turbo back exhaust, and thats it. so what caused it?
test drove an 08 by the way. nice but not impressed enough to deal with all the emissions crud. even with all her probs, ill keep my 6-oh.
test drove an 08 by the way. nice but not impressed enough to deal with all the emissions crud. even with all her probs, ill keep my 6-oh.
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From: patterson, ca
i stopped by the dealer today, they are going to start working on the motor on monday. the other thing i wanted to see was the trany pan once they pulled it off. there was a lot of crud in there. the tech said it was clutch material and a lot more than should have been there. it was almost coating the bottom of the pan!
they want to tear it down just to look at it further. my question is if its already going to get torn apart, would i be better off just to go ahead and do a rebuild on it?
if i do, i dont think i want to have them do it, as they quoted me almost $1500 in labor alone. anyone know of any good shops in the CA central valley (stockton, tracy, modesto, turlock,etc.)?
they want to tear it down just to look at it further. my question is if its already going to get torn apart, would i be better off just to go ahead and do a rebuild on it?
if i do, i dont think i want to have them do it, as they quoted me almost $1500 in labor alone. anyone know of any good shops in the CA central valley (stockton, tracy, modesto, turlock,etc.)?
Tuned
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: South central kansas
I would try to get the dealer to install ARP head studs instead of the factory ford studs. The trick to this is how you handle your service writer and your relationship with them. Some dealers will not do this for you. By the way, you will have to buy the studs yourself, cheapest I found on the net was Summit racing. 563 bucks overnight delivery. I just mine done a few weeks ago. That should take care of the head gasket issues.