Some time back, I read on this forum that one could remove the blue caps over the dash light bulbs to better illuminate the dash.
I removed the upper dash panel. It looks like the easiest way to get to the bulbs is to remove the black fascia behind the steering wheel that covers the instument cluster.
I can not get the fascia removed without removing the headlight and windshield wiper *****. There does not seem to be a set screw in either **** for removal. How do I remove the ***** to get the fascia loose? Is there another way to access the dash bulbs and remove the blue caps that cover them?
BTW, this is a 1983 F-150.

 

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-how-hard.html this should help

 

If I remember correctly the headlight and wiper ***** have spring steel inside them that allows them to stay on, once they are on. You can try to get a small allen wrench or similar tool behind them inside the plastic sleeve to push the steel towards you (away from the dash) and pull the **** off at the same time. sometimes you can pull them off by wiggling and pulling hard also. Hope this helps you.

 

Look at the back sides of the ***** and you will see small spring clips that hold the ***** on the shafts. Use a small screwdriver or longnose pliers tip to depress the clip (there's a little slot in the rear of the **** where you access the clip) while pulling out on the **** and it should slide right off the shaft. Try the light switch **** first since the shaft pulls out so it's easier to see the clip. Some radio ***** have the clips, too. Once you get the instrument cluster out you need to remove the individual instruments to be able to get the blue plastic covers out completely. You can get colored versions of the instrument panel bulbs (Green works for me) at parts stores if you don't like the yellowish color of the clear ones. It's also a good time to clean the connections on the printed circuit wiring and change the turn signal indicator bulbs to the long life versions. OBTW if your truck is automatic, when you remove the shroud around the steering column be sure to carefully disconnect the cable to the transmission indicator before proceeding to remove the cluster. At the age of these trucks, the plastic outer cable cover is usually brittle and easily broken.

 

 

There's another way to remove the headlight ****. There's a small button on the switch assembly (opposite side from the wires that go into it) you can push in while the headlight **** is pulled to the "on" position. That allows the ****'s shaft to come completely out of the switch. Reach under the dash and feel around for it. To reinsert the **** assembly, just push it in really hard until it pops into place. Sometimes takes a few tries. Note: Disconnect the battery before starting this procedure. Mostly because if you forget your headlights are on, you can drain your battery, but also because it's just smart whenever you work around wiring in your truck.

The wiper switch can actually just be tugged off, but sometimes the spring steel clip stays on the shaft. Just use some pliers to pull that off, stick it back in the ****, and you're set. To reinstall, just snap it back on. Your heater controls and fuel tank selector switches all have these same clips inside. They function the same way.

If you happen to deform the opening where the spring clip goes into the ****, you can just superglue the clip back in, let it dry, then put it back on the wiper switch. (DO NOT put it back on while the glue is wet, or you will never get it off again.)

 

Forgot to mention... You'll need a small socket or nut driver to remove the speedometer and the other gauges from the cluster to get at the caps. They're almost impossible to pull out with those in place. It *may* be possible to pop them loose from the back side, but they might just fall down inside the cluster and get stuck there.

Be EXTREMELY careful with this, however, to not bend the needles or damage the springs they attach to. Also, this is a good time to get any dust or bits of bugs that are most likely stuck in there, and to give the clear plastic face a good cleaning.

If you have an automatic transmission, and the indicator in the dash that shows what gear you're in still works, be as careful as you can to not damage this. They're quite delicate. The plastic tube that houses the cable gets very brittle and will snap with very little pressure.

 

I didn't take my cluster apart when I did it. I just took the bulbs out, took a pencil and poked the blue covers out. It didn't take much, since they were so dry rotted and brittle.

The secret little button on the headlight switch is the ticket for getting that **** off. Just remember to disconnect the battery, since theheadlights will be on till you re-insert the **** later.

 

I never tried to pop them out while it was still assembled, since I took mine apart to paint. I did, however, have to take it apart to put them back IN... (I painted my gauge cluster white, and it was actually TOO bright without the caps. Now it looks pretty durn cool.)

I'm thinking about taking them back out and using colored bulbs, though... The aqua-green look doesn't appeal to me quite as much as straight blue would. But then again, I'm picky.