Help! Weld On Ranger Leaf Spring Shackles
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Help! Weld On Ranger Leaf Spring Shackles
I'm planning on installing Ranger leaf srings on the rear of my 54. I have seen other members on the FTE also use the Ranger hangers and shackles. The problem is that the PO used rect tubing on the rear of my frame from the bed back. If I did bolt on the Ranger shackles I'm worried of over tightening the bolts and deforming the rect tubing. I am hoping to find hangers that I can weld on to the side of the frame. I've searched and can only find those that weld under the frame. I'm trying to lower the rear as much as possible. Anyone know where I can get spring hangers that weld to the side of the frame for 2 1/2" leaf springs.
Thanks in advance,
rustfarmer
Thanks in advance,
rustfarmer
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 4,190
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From: Riverside, So Cal
Don't weld the hangers. Just use a piece of tubing at each bolt as a crush spacer. Size the tube to be exactly the width of the rectangular tube from inside of the outer web to inside of the inner. Drill the inside bolt hole to the tube OD size and use a larger washer there.
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I was trying to avoid crush tubes since thats 16 holes I would have to work on. Would be a whole lot faster and easier to weld the brackets on. I am also crushed for time -sorry about the pun. I may have to go that route though. I can't seem to come up with uitable hangers. Another reason I was trying to avoid the Ranger hangers is that there seems to be alot of posts out there mentioning that the factory/stock style tends to rot out after time. And I'm sure the rain and ssalt water here would accelerate that.
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,337
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From: Harpswell Maine
Originally Posted by rustfarmer
I was trying to avoid crush tubes since thats 16 holes I would have to work on. Would be a whole lot faster and easier to weld the brackets on. I am also crushed for time -sorry about the pun. I may have to go that route though. I can't seem to come up with uitable hangers. Another reason I was trying to avoid the Ranger hangers is that there seems to be alot of posts out there mentioning that the factory/stock style tends to rot out after time. And I'm sure the rain and ssalt water here would accelerate that.
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 15,882
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From: Durham NC
16 crush tubes shouldn't take much longer to put in than welding hangers in place. A continuous weld bead would warp the heck out of the tubing making the frame useless, so you would need to do more than 16 short tacks and wait to cool in between. The tubes could be cut assembly line style with a chop saw, all the holes drilled with a step bit, then the tubes welded in alternating sides to allow cooling time. Shouldn't take over an hour or so, and you wouldn't have to worry about them ripping out. According to Bill's experience bolt a new set in after 10 years and you're good for another 10! (or have them powder coated and they'll likely last a lifetime.)
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Thanks for the advice. I'll go with the crush tubes. Any advice on what diameter tubing and what size bolts. Thick wall tubing is difficult to get in Hawaii without special ordering it. So I'll probabably have to special order it.
Thanks again,
rustfarmer
Thanks again,
rustfarmer
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Rio Rancho, NM
If you can't find a lenght of tubing to cut up you could always use some pipe nipples from the local hardware store, they can be found in various lengths and diameters, its easy enough to cut the threaded ends of to get the length you need.
Bobby
Bobby
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Durham NC
My local ACE hardware, Northern Tools and Lowes stores stocks 3' lengths of steel tubing. 1/8" wall is plenty thick for crush tubes. Ford was very fond of 5/16" sized bolts for most everything. There should not be any shear strain on the bolts if the mounts wrap under the frame. Use grade 5 bolts and nuts.