Front Steering Torque Questions ??????
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 342
Likes: 0
From: Gainesville, Georgia
Front Steering Torque Questions ??????
Hi Guys,
This question is specific to my 1967 F-100 4X4. No two-wheel drives here...
I am installing a new Drag Link and Center Link onto my truck and cannot seem to find the torque specifications for the ball joints. Since this is my first time doing steering parts, I wanted to do it correctly. I would rather that they are not loose and break going down the road! I have searched thru my manuals and cannot find the specifications for these. Can anyone out there lend me a hand in this area. How tight do I tighten these before putting the cotter pins back in ??? Should I use some washers or spacers ???
Thanks a million.
This question is specific to my 1967 F-100 4X4. No two-wheel drives here...
I am installing a new Drag Link and Center Link onto my truck and cannot seem to find the torque specifications for the ball joints. Since this is my first time doing steering parts, I wanted to do it correctly. I would rather that they are not loose and break going down the road! I have searched thru my manuals and cannot find the specifications for these. Can anyone out there lend me a hand in this area. How tight do I tighten these before putting the cotter pins back in ??? Should I use some washers or spacers ???
Thanks a million.
Posting Guru
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 2,222
Likes: 1
From: East Central Florida
By Ball Joints (?), I'm gonig to presume you are talking about the pivoting tie rod ends with tapered shafts connecting steering linkage to steering knuckles & pitman arm.
Based on that; They are a tapered fit, with either a 7/16 or 1/2 NFT thread. Therefore I'd tighten 1/2" dia's to +60#s & 7/16ths to +50#s, San's washers or spacers. Just run the nut down to the forging. It should be machine finished for that very purpose.
Also, if you're about to hit your desired torque spec but the cotter key hole is already lined up, quit & install the cotter there. I do it that way all the time with good results.
Reason I do that is I don't want to over tighten & I sure don't want to back off after I tightened the nut down,. So undertightened, but close within a few lbs torque is best alternative to me.
I hope this helps you out. BTW I just came thru your neck of the woods yesterday.
FBp
Based on that; They are a tapered fit, with either a 7/16 or 1/2 NFT thread. Therefore I'd tighten 1/2" dia's to +60#s & 7/16ths to +50#s, San's washers or spacers. Just run the nut down to the forging. It should be machine finished for that very purpose.
Also, if you're about to hit your desired torque spec but the cotter key hole is already lined up, quit & install the cotter there. I do it that way all the time with good results.
Reason I do that is I don't want to over tighten & I sure don't want to back off after I tightened the nut down,. So undertightened, but close within a few lbs torque is best alternative to me.
I hope this helps you out. BTW I just came thru your neck of the woods yesterday.
FBp
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
rbhug
1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
7
Nov 12, 2012 12:04 PM
rbhug
Brakes, Steering, Suspension, Tires, & Wheels
6
Dec 1, 2010 11:11 AM
