Hey guys. I noticed my gas tank vent line is, well, open, and I have a bracket for an evap can, but no canister.

My truck is an emissions exempt (in my state) 79 F100, 460 swap, Edelbrock carb, Mustang dual snorkel air cleaner.

Anyway I can hook this back up with this setup properly? and if not, can I just hook up the evap canister to the vent line and plug all the other caps? that should be better than nothing I would think?

I figure the less vapor that can escape, the less 'smell' my truck will have when parked, and the more $ I'll save in the long run.

Thanks

 

You will have to provide vacuum through it to make it purge properly. I would definitely hook it back up. It is nice to be able to park your truck and not smell like a gas station

 

Haha, exactly!

Anybody ever do this with an Edelbrock carb? I figure with a holley you could stuff a hose over each bowl vent, not sure on an E-brock

 

My Edelbrock does not have a carb vent for the evap emissions cannister.

Find a carbon cannister from another vehicle. Reconnect the tank vent. Connect the purge line to the small line at the PCV valve. Just use a small piece of alum or brass rod to fit the line with a 1/16" orifice drilled thru it. This has worked on several applications. I like to cut the line so that the rod shows a few inches from the end of the line. That way it is less likely someone will just throw it away when they replace the vac hose some way down the line. You can put the restriction in either end of the hose.

 

I am not sure which canister you have since this is a 460 swap. My canister has 3 ports, one 5/16 (or ¼) to the tank, one 3/8 to the carb bowl vent and one ½ that goes to the air cleaner. The two that are important are the 5/16 to the gas tank. It might be ¼ I am not sure, (it has been a long time since I have looked at mine) and the ½ that goes to the air cleaner. This ½” hose is the vacuum for the purging.

The ½ goes to the air cleaner before the air filter to protect from flashbacks. You can buy an adapter at most auto parts/speed shops if you don’t have the access on your air cleaner for the ½ hose.

The bowl vent hose can be connected or plugged if your carb doesn’t have the bowl vent. You do have a bowl vent if you have the Edelbrock 1400 series. It is the 7/16 tube on the top near the front of the carb on the same side as the fuel intake tube. Mine didn’t have one on the 750cfm but did have it on the 600cfm that I previously had on it.

I like the idea of having the bowl vent hooked up so I took the top off of the carb and drilled a 3/8 hole into the bowl vent and swaged a 3/8 inch tube into it and ran the hose to it. I can send a picture of the project if you are interested in doing the same.

 

Sorry guys, been away at the New England Summer Nationals all weekend.

I have no charcoal canister, but I have access to the three port unit described.

My #1407 Carb doesn't have the port, the 750 CFM carbs don't have the bowl vent. I compared to the '50 state legal' 600 CFM carb they offer, and the port isn't cast in at all to the carb. I was thinking of doing just what you described, I'd like a picture if you could provide one. With the bowl vent drilled and with a tube, what did you do for the original bowl vent opening at the top of the carb?

 

Here is the information with pictures of how I added the vent bowl line to the carbon canister. View #1 shows the carb installed on the truck with the 3/8 hose running to the canister. View #2 is the side view showing placement of the 3/8 copper tube. View #4 shows the tube inserted into the vent bowl.

The top of all of the Edelbrock Performer Series carbs that I have seen uses the same casting. They all have the vent bowl in them. The only difference is that there is no vapor outlet in any of the carbs except the 1400 and the marine series.

All that is necessary to add this vapor outlet is to carefully drill a 3/8 inch hole into the vent bowl as the pictures show and put a short length of copper or brass 3/8 tube into it. Start out and drill a small pilot hole, I used 7/64, in the location shown in View #2 through the casing into the vent bowl. (View #4) I start out drilling small holes into the casting increasing one drill size after each pass. This makes the hole cleaner and avoids disastrous events like splitting the case, out of round holes, etc. When you get the hole out to 3/8 cut a short length of tubing and insert it into the hole. Insert the tube into the hole far enough that a little sticks out inside of the vent bowl opening. (View #4) Take a drift pin and spread the tube out a little inside of the vent hole. This will keep it from backing out due to heat and vibration.

That’s all there is to it. Feel free to ask if you have any more questions. Good luck Gary

 

Is that all there is to it? Don't you need some sort of check valve or purge valve in there?

 

I still haven't done this.

Do any Ford charcoal cans exist without the goofy foil line (1/2" diameter) that runs to the air cleaner?

 

I replaced mine with a piece of water heater hose. It looks a lot cleaner and is a lot cheaper. I did this probably 15 years ago and have never had a problem with it.

 

I meant, without that outlet entirely.

 

The 1/2 inch outlet is what purges the canister. It sucks fumes through the cannister into the outside of the air cleaner and burns the fumes through the combustion process. With out it the darn thing wouldn't work. This is the line Lariat was talking about hooking to the pvc.

 

I may have to hook that "inside" my air cleaner then, drill a hole and put a fitting, as my air cleaner doesn't have an external neck.

 

Lariat 85 hooked his through his PVC. I am not sure I would do it that way. You might put a lot of cool air into the intake valves and warp them. My 460 blew a hole in the brake vacuum booster and it was sucking mass amounts of cold air directly into the #4 & #7 cylinders. I warped both intake valves before I knew what was happening, so I stay away from anything that will put cool air directly into the intake. I assume that you have an after market air cleaner that has the filter element exposed to the outside. If so then there is probably a punch out on the bottom plate that you can put a connector on to hook this hose onto. These connectors are called "Universal Smog Tube Fittings." You can usually find them where these after market air cleaners are sold. You can get on the internet and do a search for CHR-7290 if you want an idea of what they look like.

Check out http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store..._479875?CT=999

 

Not to beat this to death..

But an edelbrock carb without that fitting.. 1400 series.. Aren't the bowls vented to the atmosphere? You'd have to seal up the original vents (Aren't they the openings on either side of the rod access ports with the screw on top?) in order for that added tube to do anything I'd think.