check engine light, engine probs, no codes
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check engine light, engine probs, no codes
Still trying to figure out what the deal is with my '94 Ranger. It's a manual, 4x4 with the 4.0 EFI with about 140,000 on it. Check engine light is on almost constantly. When it turns off the pickup hiccups and runs terrible.
The only thing that has ever helped is shimming the starter. It sounded like it was grating against the flywheel so I shimmed it out. (had recently replaced clutch) and the problem went away. check engine light went out and truck ran great
But the exact same problem is back again. I have no idea what to do with this thing. I replaced the TPS, spark plugs, spark plug wires, checked the IAC and MAF. Maybe a baseball bat would help...
thanks.
The only thing that has ever helped is shimming the starter. It sounded like it was grating against the flywheel so I shimmed it out. (had recently replaced clutch) and the problem went away. check engine light went out and truck ran great
But the exact same problem is back again. I have no idea what to do with this thing. I replaced the TPS, spark plugs, spark plug wires, checked the IAC and MAF. Maybe a baseball bat would help...
thanks.
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Taken this truck to Ford and a just a General Mechanic. Both said it throws no codes. Testing it on my own with a volt meter I cam up with a 341. It's always had this code and in the past has caused no problems. So...that's it for codes. Paid enough money out already, not going back to the shop to have them test it again for 80 bucks, charge me a hundred for a fuel filter install and tell me it is not an "under the hood" problem. Whatever that means... (catallytic converter is not plugged, good flow, can hear fuel pump working when key is "on". )
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Connecticut
I was going to suggest you buy your own code reader. You can get them for under $30 for your '94 (OBD-I).
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Central Jersey
Have you had the computer reset, either by pulling the battery cable or preferably with a code checker? I agree with gashog in that the starter should not cause a CEL. I had a IAC Valve go bad and it caused a strange noise, but no CEL. One other thing to check is the Fuel Filler cap. Not sure if its applicable on a 94, but it caused a CEL on my Escape.
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From: Aurora
Just a thought fellas, but consider this. When you pull codes, and there is none set, you always get the one code that sets when you first turn the key, but havent fired it up yet, no? It's been a while, but I think I remember my old GM's code was for the distributer signal not being there. 'Of course, I haven't started the engine yet', but the simple computer doesn't know this and hence sets the code. Again, when the mechanic tries to pull the codes on a computer that has set no codes, he gets at least one, right?, but ignores it because its the one thats always there.
Like I said, with my GMC, it was the distributer signal failure. If the distributer signal actually failed, how would I know the difference when I pull the codes? I would just think that it's the one that's always there anyway.
I don't know what this code 341 is, but could this be the case? Or could he be looking at a PCM power failure that's clearing codes when it looses power as a by-product.
This line of thought may seem flaky, but I just brainstorming, a rare event anymore
.
Like I said, with my GMC, it was the distributer signal failure. If the distributer signal actually failed, how would I know the difference when I pull the codes? I would just think that it's the one that's always there anyway.
I don't know what this code 341 is, but could this be the case? Or could he be looking at a PCM power failure that's clearing codes when it looses power as a by-product.
This line of thought may seem flaky, but I just brainstorming, a rare event anymore
.
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Hmm. Hadn't thought about a check engine light being on because the EGR was stuck and possibly not throwing any codes. I replaced the speed sensor yesterday just because it's fairly cheap and the speedo was jumping all over the place anyway. This didn't make any difference. I think I need to replace the speedometer cable. But at any rate, at least we can eliminate that. I'll have to look into an EGR valve for this thing. At this point I'm just sort of throwing parts at it as I can afford it because that is all Ford is going to do every time I take it in there, except they charge me five times as much for the part, plus the service. Let you know if new EGR valve helped.
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Also, I've been told a camshaft position sensor could set a check engine light and mess up timing. In theory, if this has a camshaft position sensor it's located behind the intake manifold. When I replaced the clutch it's possibe that while taking off the top bolts of the bellhousing or disconnecting the 02 sensor wires I bumped something up there. But I can't find a camshaft position sensor on this thing. It is my understanding that only models manufactured to be sold in California have the CPS (to decrease emissions) but that could be wrong. Could anyone tell me for sure if I have one of these?
