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I have a msd blaster 2 coil. Stock ingition box and stock distributor. My question is do i have to get a ignition box from msd to make that coil work like it was intended?? I have found a 6a for 30 bux used. And do i need the distributor too?? I have a 351m alum intake and 600 edelbrock. i have noticed that when its cold it "bust out". Daddy said he thinks i need new plugs. i was thinking it was the coil.(but im not really good when it comes to timing and ignitions and electrical). So I was thinking if i put that ignion box in there with the coil it would kick in and create a bigger spark to burn the gas quicker. am i right??
I have a msd blaster 2 coil. Stock ingition box and stock distributor. My question is do i have to get a ignition box from msd to make that coil work like it was intended?? I have found a 6a for 30 bux used.
The MSD 6A is good, but the stock box should be fine.
And do i need the distributor too??
No, your stock distributor should be fine as well.
I have a 351m alum intake and 600 edelbrock. i have noticed that when its cold it "bust out".
What do you mean "bust out".
Daddy said he thinks i need new plugs.
He could be right. Spend the money on spark plugs and wires.
i was thinking it was the coil.(but im not really good when it comes to timing and ignitions and electrical). So I was thinking if i put that ignion box in there with the coil it would kick in and create a bigger spark to burn the gas quicker. am i right??
No, the fuel will burn the same.
Can you give us a better description of your problem?
I wouldn't buy a used MSD box... they are great new, and have impeccable service life, but once they have been removed, they tend to get thrown around and dropped and the like, and quality is compromised... I like the Crane Hi-6s box, which is a Capacitive discharge box, not an ignition system like the MSD, the CD box gives you a spark for 20 degrees of crankshaft rotation, insuring a complete burn in that cylinder.
If it runs fine now, I wouldn't change to the CD or MSD box... they won't help enough to offset the cost, unless you are racing.
I'm not racing but it is in my 4x4 on 38.5's. So i need power but i cant put a cam in the motor because it voids the warrenty. Busting out is when i get on the gas it'll start to pop i guess u could say. but when it warms up it'll run like a swiss watch. Could it have been because i was running open headers??? I was on my way to the exhaust place. So the coil works without the box. The other question is. my buddy and i put a pickup in the dizzy and we broke the bolt on the mounting and its being held on with a zip tie. could this affect anything??
If you mean that it is popping back through the carb when cold, it is because the mixture is too lean.
Is the choke set right?
Are there any vacuum leaks?
i dont know if the choke is set right. I put it on and daddy adjusted the idle screw and it runs about 500-600 rpm's. Its electronic choke. I wonder if i got a air/fuel mixture gauge if it would help me out?? I dont believe there are any vaccum leaks. I dont hear any air sucking.so if everything works on people's ignitons y should we upgrade?? Whats the purpose of the msd??
alright. but back to my original question. Whats the purpose of an msd box?? I know it creates a bigger spark to burn the gas and make better combustion(atleast thats what everyones telling me) And if i done a full on msd ignition system would i gain power?? Full on i mean coil, dizzy, and ignition box.
alright. but back to my original question. Whats the purpose of an msd box?? I know it creates a bigger spark to burn the gas and make better combustion(atleast thats what everyones telling me) And if i done a full on msd ignition system would i gain power?? Full on i mean coil, dizzy, and ignition box.
The spark only ignites the fuel-air mixture. A MSD box will insure ignition in marginal conditions, such as an over-rich mixture, and the motor will run a little smoother under load. A MSD dizzy is a very good unit, and necessary for a race vehicle, but it will add little to a well tuned stock motor.
The spark energy is controlled by the coil, which is basically a transformer, turning the 8-12 volts it receives into 30,000 to 50,000. The MSD Blaster is one of the best coils on the market. A capacitive discharge box controls the spark frequency, usually by creating multiple sparks for each signal it receives to create a clean burn. These are great for stock engines and make cold weather starting much easier and weekend toys that don't see much action really benefit from them.
thats what my 4x4 is. its a weekend toy. And if i check my carb and tune it to peak performance, then it'll be a well tuned motor correct? There cant be much wrong with its a brand new motor with less that 1000 miles on it. I just want some horsepower without voiding the warrenty. But to be honest i prolly voided it with the 600 edelbrock i put on it.
You'll have to check with your warranty paperwork... but running it rich can cause carbon buildup which results in detonation and severe engine damage, it doesn't take that long either.
You should have gotten some tuning and adjustment paperwork with that carb, if not, its free from Edelbrock, you can download a PDF or they will mail it to you.
ok i know this thread is kinda old but whats the point of a msd rev limiter?? I know it obviously limits me over revving. I have a spot on my msd box for one. And its my 4x4 which sees mud should i put one on it??? is it worth the money?? i think i turn it about 5k when im in the mud. I dont really pay attention to the tach when im trying to get out of a hole. AND if i have a vaccum secondary carb. I need the vaccum dizzy right??
ok i know this thread is kinda old but whats the point of a msd rev limiter?? I know it obviously limits me over revving. I have a spot on my msd box for one. And its my 4x4 which sees mud should i put one on it??? is it worth the money?? i think i turn it about 5k when im in the mud. I dont really pay attention to the tach when im trying to get out of a hole.
If you don't pay attention to the tach when you are in the mud, it sounds like you would want to use your rev limiter. Last I checked, you could buy a bag of 5 preset "pills" as they are called, for around $25 or so.
As a side note, a friend of mine has an EXTREMELY warmed over '96 Camaro SS. He runs an MSD rev limiter with it set around 7200 RPM (application specific here). He took me for a ride in it and hit that rev limiter, it really gets your attention!
Its kind of optional, if you had a chevy that lets go at 5K, then they are necessary, before I replaced my 351M with a 400, I held that sucker to the floor and tried everything to make it explode but it wouldn't, I held it at 5300+ RPMs for close to 30 minutes. I'm not saying that your motor will hold together at that RPM or for that long, just that mine did.
The Vacuum secondary carb has nothing to do with a vacuum advance distributor, but I highly recommend that you run a vacuum distributor if you run on the street, and with a truck, you really need a vacuum secondary carb, mechanical secondaries are made for light cars and racing. Mechanical distributors are great for lighter vehicles and racing when you don't see any street or never haul a load.