I had the same problem with the XE274 cam sounded just like a solid cam...could not get those rockers to shut up...I did everything, two different sets of lifters, completely different rocker set up, changed the springs, checked the guides....drove me nuts, I changed the cam..... all is well.

If the noise took 500 mile to come on I would pull the cam.

 

the engine has 500 miles on it now, the noise is the same as the day I fired it up, it has never changed no matter what rocker or adjustment I've tried..it idles fine, runs fine, gets 20mpg the one time I checked it after a 200 mile road trip and that was running up to 90mph a few times

 

never used them .......... Is there anything special about the High Energy lifters?

I know the Rhoades lifters will take some duration out of the cam at idle to help with low end torque...but never used them myself.

Let me ask you one more ?

when you adjusted them with it running did the rocker shut up for a short time and then start ticking again before you could get to the next one.

If so that is a good sign of bad guides.....Been there done that...got a pic of the guide totaly wasted after 5 minutes of run time.

Had the rocker geometry way off.....

hope I'm not scaring you....these are just things I have run into in the real world, thought I would share them.....

 

Had a little more than 5 minutes, broke in the cam and just running it on the engine stand ...I never drove it...and they were new

 

the guides should be good, the head work was done less than 10,000 miles ago...heres what they say about the lifters..."not all lifters are created equal, the use of high energy lifters give you advantage not found in other lifters..Our lifters have a patented orfice metering valve which precisely measures oil to the rocker..Continuous contact between the metering valve and the precisely coined bottom surface of the pushrod seat is maintained throughout the rpm range, thus eliminating excessive oiling at high speeds...the pushrod seat is made of powdered metal iron alloy and heat treated for strenghth and wear resistance...the lifter has a longer piston made possible by the counterbored pushrod seat position, this longer piston provides greater bearing surface and longer lifter life...High energy lifters have a lightweight check valve disk which aloows for quicker response, this results in increases in engine float speed, this check valve also maintains complete control at all engine speeds and loads..Increases in engine speed can be attributed to this quicker responce check valve"

 

WOW!!!! some more fine Chinese steel?

 

sounds like too much chit could go wrong with them...and you filled them first? That might have done something to them, call CompCams......

 

yes I pumped them up before installing them, the stupid instruction sheet with the lifters didn't say not to, but looking at the info on line later it said not to...that it would screw the valving up or something like that, thats why I was asking if anyone else has had this problem with them

 

Cast iron guides

 

what caused them to wear that quick???

 

My machinest and I came up with the valve train geometery was way off. go back and re-read your post i think we got ahead of one another.


I needed shorter pushrods....

 

Hiball, I'm with Hemi on pulling the cam out and checking it out. I posted a while back about the exact same issue that you are having and Hemi helped me out as well, along with a few others.

My cam was a CompCams extreme energy cam and lifter set. I had the exact same problems with the lifters/valvetrain. The motor ended up eating the cam after 1500 miles. Took the #2 exhaust lobe off and about 1/8 to 3/16" off the bottom of the lifter. I changed the cam out with a custom grind from Cam Research and it only cost me 10$ more than the CompCams cam and lifter set. FYI, CompCams fully reimbursed me for the purchase price of the cam and lifter set ($185). They obviously determined that the set was faulty.

After changing the cam my oil pressure dropped a little bit. Pretty frustrating for a new build. I can only wonder what all of those little metal shavings did to the inside of my motor. Hopefully I'll find out later than sooner.

Anyway, my point is, try to catch the failure before you tear up your bearings or anything else. It could save you money in the long run. It's pretty much too late for me now. Besides I regret not building a stroker anyway. Just cant justify it to the wife at this time.

Good luck!

 

thanks for the input, sorry I didn't reply sooner, I can relate to justifying the cost with the wife(I'm old, retired and on a small income)I wish I could put my old Norris Industries cam back in it, but its to radical for this Mustang, its an Auto trany, so I'm stuck with what I have and will run it till something drastic happens...this is the first CompCam I've used and will be the last, Damn aftermarket crap they make these days

 

Ditto on the very first last thing. This one bad experience was enough to make me shy away also. I'm not in any way saying that all of CompCams stuff is junk but I have since found a better avenue to travel. I have heard alot of good things about them as well which is why I wasn't afraid to use their product. . I must say that I give their customer service a thumbs up because they stood behind their warranty and gave me absolutely no problems at all. That can be hard to find at times.

 

Worth reading, IMO: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ech/index.html


Pete