[updated:LAST EDITED ON 09-Aug-02 AT 11:13 AM (EST)]>I said there were exceptions for everything, why are you
>picking everything I say a part?

Because the Blanket statement "SCs are better"
Isn't the case in this instance...

>When i said they are most
>common on a hopped up foriegn car, i ment people with honda
>civics and those types of cars that people hop up. You look
>under the hood of a mustang and you're not gonna find a
>turbo very often.

Not any more anyway...

>Thats ALL i'm trying to say, obviously
>there are exceptions as some american cars had turbos. The
>exceptions also include diesels as turbos work well on them.
>But isn't it true that turbos have lag time and need RPMs to
>build up the power? A gas is a lot different then a diesel.

Correctly sized turbos have the same lag as a SC, so
a properly engineered kit for a given engine size won't
have "lag"

>>There are exceptions to everything. In
>>my opinion, theres nothing more masculine then a big ol'
>>supercharger on your truck. However, there is neither made
>>for the six. You might be able to get a turbo or
>>supercharger to fit, but it'll take custom work.
>
>Whats wrong with that statement???

Nothing, if thats what you're after, but this thread
was started about turboing an I6, which isn't a high
RPM engine, and correctly sized turbos would help it
enormuosly...

Steve & the Rockette
'63 F100
'68 F100
'72 Capri 2L
'73 Capri 2.6L V6
'73 MG B GT 2.6L V6(Ford)
'98 Contour SVT 2.5L V6 (Mods)
'01 ZX2 (No Mods yet)

 

Get a copy of a turbo compressor map for a Garrett T03 with Super 60 trim. Plot the boost curves for a 300 @ 6 PSI boost and you'll see you're running at peak efficiency from about 1500 RPM to 4000 RPM.

Turbos do not need high revs to make boost if they are properly sized for the application. If they are sized only for max power they will require max revs, but that has nothing to do with putting a turbo on a working truck does it? Belt-driven centrifugals need revs to work, and rob the engine of HP as well. Turbos use a similar type of compressor but drive it very differently. That is the whole point of a turbo. Turbos make boost in response to load. It matters little whether that load is caused by trying to accelerate an empty truck through the 1/4 mile or whether it's trying to haul a loaded trailer up a mountain pass.

The reason that many ricers use turbos (BTW a lot of them use Lysholm and Rootes blowers too) is because of their increased efficiency. With only 2 litres of displacement, thet cannot afford a lot of wasted effort.

 

I was thinking of putting twin turbos on a 460. Maybe a turbo on each head of of an engine with a smaller displacement.

Any ideas.


Brian:-)

 

>Maybe a
>turbo on each head of of an engine with a smaller
>displacement.
>
>Any ideas.

That is the right way to do it, actually, the 300 I6
is about perfect for a twin turbo setup, say from a
2.3L turbo...

Steve & the Rockette
'63 F100
'68 F100
'72 Capri 2L
'73 Capri 2.6L V6
'73 MG B GT 2.6L V6(Ford)
'98 Contour SVT 2.5L V6 (Mods)
'01 ZX2 (No Mods yet)

 

The turbos must make it from load, since more volume is being pushed out of the exhaust when the throttle is pushed down...right.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.

Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Heavyduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Weighs around 7,000lbs w. 65mph top speed, who wants to race me!

 

Some one does make a kit for the 300-6.Ill see if I can find the info.It was in the back of a magazine.The intake manifold was replaced with one to bolt on a B&M(now holley) 144 roots blower.

 

Why is it that the only advice you guys can
give is "put a blower on it"?? GTmoron, how
about you go for a ride with me in one of our
trucks, first without a trailer, then with a
a trailer, I'll put a C-note up that says you
can't hear the turbo spool without a load...

As I said before, you don't know jack about turbos...

Steve & the Rockette
'63 F100
'68 F100
'72 Capri 2L
'73 Capri 2.6L V6
'73 MG B GT 2.6L V6(Ford)
'98 Contour SVT 2.5L V6 (Mods)
'01 ZX2 (No Mods yet)

 

Why are you flipping out? I was just trying to make sure I was right. Man, you need to relax a little, is a vacation in need for you?


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.

Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Heavyduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Weighs around 7,000lbs w. 65mph top speed, who wants to race me!

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 19-Aug-02 AT 07:01 PM (EST)]both turbos and superchargers need a load to boost the engine. if i rev my truck to 4000 in park i will see no boost. because there is no load.

 

I happen to know a lot about turbos, and they are not just for ricers. In fact, most ricers can't afford turbos, which is why they are in hondas to start with!

I will point out the Audi 2.2L 5 cylinder, that makes 260ftlbs at 1950 rpm. No #####.

To turbo an inline 6 is really easy. You don't need twin turbos, they're mostly for twin bank engines like a V6 or a V8, so you don't have to merge the collectors and run a single exhaust system.

You can use your factory header, just get a muffler shop to fabricate an adapter to adapt the header to the turbocharger. You'll need to hook up oil lines to the turbo, that can be done with a trick little adapter that goes between the block and the oil filter. I would advise getting an oil cooler, even if you already have one.

Get a water cooled turbo, they are more reliable and last longer. I would also advise an intercooler, because the cooler the air is, the less likely it'll ping. You should probably do a mild rebuild, and be sure to get manifold, exhaust and head studs, ARP are good quality.
A good investment is a turbo timer, it just circulates coolant through the turbo after you shut the engine off, and keeps the oil in the turbo from cooking/coking.

A turbocharger does a few things, for one, it temporarily raises the engine compression, boost=power. It also changes your engine from a vaccuum system to a pressure system, which makes it a lot harder to stall.

 

I agree with the advice of 'SOBCspeed'. I too have a good deal of experience with turbo's and would definately choose them over the sc.
There is another advantage to using a turbo and that is 'Intercooling'
Do as mentioned by SOBCspeed regarding the exhaust manifold. There is another car that has the perfect sized turbo for you. It comes on the 1985-87 Nissan 300ZX (turbo of course?)These units are a T3 and have a water cooled center section. The 1985 had no water cooling provision. These units flow enough air to supply 270-290 hp at the upper limits of there rpm (153,000). The intercooler can be scavenged from the 90 plus Toyota. Lots of owners upgrade and sell there OEM units. Another is the Mitsu Starion/Conquest. These are a little smaller but will also suffice. The tubing can be easily fabed from common exhaust J or U bends. I would recommend using 2.25" dia.
I assume this motor has the stock compression ratio ? Thus this is where the intercooler will greatly help by keeping temps lower than without and allow to use a bit more boost pressure.
Anyhow hope that fans the fire a bit for you, good luck.

 

I was kidding when i said they were for ricers...sorry for the misunderstanding....


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.

Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Heavyduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Weighs around 7,000lbs w. 65mph top speed, who wants to race me!

 

It's a really good idea to rebuild the short block, go to really high quality fastener, like ARP studs, and lower the compression. Good to have forged pistons too.

Something thats pretty new too, good boost controllers. All the ricers go crazy about them, but they really are good.

The problem with high boost is the same problem as building high compression motors, detonation. However, with modern boost controllers, you can run high static compression(8.5-9.5), and 15 lbs of boost on top of that. A good controller is the Saab APC boost controller, you can get it off of any Saab after the mid eighties, for about $100-$150 from a wrecker. It has a manifold absolute pressure sensor, and a knock sensor. It runs completely seperately from an engine computer, and can retard/advance ignition. It works best with an ignition amp/controller anyways. Happy roddin

 

Hey, you get a lot more backpressure from running a turbo don't you? Which means loss of power? So is it just that more power is lost through running the supercharger, vs the backpressure of a turbo?


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

That's it for mods now, saving for a Stang. Check out my Gallery for a look-see.

 

The loss from backpressure thru the turbo is minor compared to the drive losses in the belt. The turbo losses can be largely offset by the fact that the turbo does a credible job of muffling things so a much less restrictive muffler is required giving a lot less in the way of downstream losses