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1) it's a 351W unless someone did some swapping on ya
2) to remove the bolts, soak them with PB Blaster (like WD40, but better). Get the engine warm, spray the snot out of 'em (it'll smoke and smell like ***. be warned), and let it sit. repeat over the course of, well, i'm not sure. i did this everyday for a week before i did the job and everything came out like butter. probably a bit of overkill. oh, and replace the hardware while you're at it.
3) a more descriptive title on your threads will yield better results. just some friednly advice for the future.
yeah starts right up good comp. just a bit louder than i like took it to shop this morning to get prices on exhaust found out from them exhaust manifold gaskets are shot and they wont touch them (dont want to pay for something they break i guess) so ill do it myself saves me a couple hundred anyway
Use anti-seize on the bolts, this will make the job easier next time (if there is a next time.) If you have a marine hardware place nearby or a good hardware store bring the old bolts in and have them sell you new ones in stainless steel, then the heads won't corrode small and strip when you go to remove them.
If instead of bolts you have studs and nuts use brass manifold nuts. The brass nuts won't corrode and you can burn them off with a torch if they get stuck without destroying anything.
thanks was thinking of doing studs any way hopefully there wont be a next time, as i have a habbit of keeping up on the maintanance unlike the po, but just in case, one never knows, hope to keep her around for a few years
just FYI, 351s are known to have problems with cracked manifolds. it MAY NOT be the gasket. if this is the case, new manifolds can be found relatively cheap online, or you could go whole hog and put in some headers.
Mike
PS - the reason the shop doesn't wanna touch it is that the hardware is prone to round off or snap off during the removal, at which point they have to pull the head and everyone gets in a big pissing match as to who should pay for it. while my hardware came out super-easy, mine's a CA (aka rust-free) truck that looks better than a lot of 5 yr old trucks i see running around. your results may vary. i HAVE heard of some real horror stories on doing this job. trying to remember if i used air tools on this or not. don't think so... well, maybe on the collector bolts.
anywho, just go slow and use LOTS of PB Blaster. that stuff works wonders and can be found at any Autozone
Last edited by whiteyfordzx5; Jul 2, 2007 at 02:51 PM.
if they turn out to be cracked a can allways take the ones off of my 84 right? both look the same (wife wont understand putting headers on) although i personally would prefer headers and dual out under the bumber, dont have to worry about cats because it dont have none(from the factory!)
edit: just did some more research and found out that both engines are windsors
I don't think any 84's came with the 351M, either. The 351M was done by, what, 1981? Not even sure it went that far. So, I would say that your 87 and your 84 match because they are both Windsors.
I personally have had very little success with PB Blaster. I found that 3M brand penetrating spray works much better, but it is harder to find.
not sure on the interchangeability of manifolds from your 84. when i bought my 89, i had to replace the driver side (thank God, bc the passenger side is a biotch!).
I thought that the vans and Mustangs had a Cleveland option through the 80s?...
Mike
Clevlands were finished about 1972.
The 351M & 400 heads will fit a Clevland. We used them on our Dirt Race Car.
They are the same as the 2 barrel Clevland heads.
The heads on a Clevland in the corner top, just outside the valve cover have a 2 for 2 barrel or a 4 for 4 barrel. The 351M has a M in that spot. The 400's are blank. Nothing there.
Yeah man your right 351M where done for they only went till about 1980 then the 351W came in so its gotta be a Windsor unless he swapped it the 351W went till about 1996 so your 1984 should be windsor
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