Need help with shifting transmission
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Posting Guru
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Dexter, MI
Need help with shifting transmission
Hi All,
I need help in solving a transmission shifting problem.
The truck: 91 XLT, 2 wheel drive, 5 sp. manual trans, 4 cyl.
The problem. Sitting at a red light, sometimes I am unable to shift into 1st gear. If I then try to shift into second, I also have difficulty. If I do it while slowing down, no problem. I am able to shift smoothly into all other gears. I thought I could let out the clutch, depress the clutch pedal, and then it would work. No such luck. That, to me, rules out a synchronizer problem.
Could I be having problems with the shift linkage in the transmission? Any help or advice any of you could offer would be a help. Thanks.
I need help in solving a transmission shifting problem.
The truck: 91 XLT, 2 wheel drive, 5 sp. manual trans, 4 cyl.
The problem. Sitting at a red light, sometimes I am unable to shift into 1st gear. If I then try to shift into second, I also have difficulty. If I do it while slowing down, no problem. I am able to shift smoothly into all other gears. I thought I could let out the clutch, depress the clutch pedal, and then it would work. No such luck. That, to me, rules out a synchronizer problem.
Could I be having problems with the shift linkage in the transmission? Any help or advice any of you could offer would be a help. Thanks.
Last edited by michigan66; Jun 30, 2007 at 02:56 PM. Reason: Spelling errors
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
When stopped...sometimes you need to slightly let the vehicle move for it to go into first gear, as if the truck is stopped and the synchro cogs aren't lined up, without movement they cannot engage. A similar effect can be achieved by slightly letting off the clutch pedal while pushing the stick into gear.
Is the clutch fluid full? A leak or a lack of pressure in the system, as well as a fault in the throwout bearing, can all cause coming and going shifting problems.
Next time it does it, attempt to shift into fourth (which should go very easily), then into first.
Is the clutch fluid full? A leak or a lack of pressure in the system, as well as a fault in the throwout bearing, can all cause coming and going shifting problems.
Next time it does it, attempt to shift into fourth (which should go very easily), then into first.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
I just diagnosed this problem on a Miata a friend of mine owns. Does the clutch feel any different? I.e. does it seem to release after only like an inch of travel off the floor? Turned out her slave cylinder was in the process of going out.
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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My personal experience matches Rangerpilot.
The same thing happened to me on a 1994 B2300, 2 wheel drive, 5 sp manual. In 1999, we were visiting my mother at Christmas in MI—very cold. We tow this vehicle behind our bus—the beautiful thing about the 5 sp manual is that it can be towed 4 wheels down with no speed or distance restrictions. I parked the bus, disconnected the truck and found that it would not shift out of neutral. I managed to get it in gear by rapidly pumping the clutch pedal, but it happened again. I looked in the clutch master cylinder and found that the rubber gasket had been drawn into the cylinder (a sign of fluid leakage). I bummed a ride to the parts store for some brake fluid. I filled the cylinder, repositioned the gasket, replaced the cover and pumped the pedal a few times. The clutch then worked normally. I inquired to a number of friends about the problem and I learned that the clutch slave cylinder was prone to leaking. Further, unlike my Blazer, which has the clutch slave cylinder outside the bell housing, the Mazda/Ranger is located around the input shaft of the transmission so the transmission has to be removed to replace it. I did not want to do that in MI because I was on my way to Arizona where it was warm. In fact, it was not convenient for me to replace the slave cylinder for several more years. I ran the vehicle without difficulty by periodically checking to make sure there was sufficient fluid in the clutch master cylinder. As long as I kept it topped off, I never had a problem with shifting. If I became lax in maintenance, I could always tell because the clutch would become sloppy. I always carried 1-½ cans of brake fluid. The half can; pours easily and avoids spills. Make sure you keep the cap tight to avoid moisture getting into a partially filled can
In 2003 the clutch wore out so I replaced the clutch and the slave cylinder at the same time. You can find slave cylinders on-line for much less than local parts stores and a number of them have lifetime warranties. I still tow the truck and the clutch and slave cylinder are still working well.
I’m telling you of this experience because the majority of the experts recommended that I replace the slave cylinder immediately. I saved myself a lot of work by not having to remove the transmission twice or not replacing the clutch prematurely. As a matter of fact, it was only a slight inconvenience until the clutch wore out.
I am curious if anybody has ever had a catastrophic leak that would not respond to refilling the clutch master cylinder. I suppose if that is a possibility, one might elect to replace the slave cylinder right away. Nonetheless, I would still probably do the same thing if it happened again.
The same thing happened to me on a 1994 B2300, 2 wheel drive, 5 sp manual. In 1999, we were visiting my mother at Christmas in MI—very cold. We tow this vehicle behind our bus—the beautiful thing about the 5 sp manual is that it can be towed 4 wheels down with no speed or distance restrictions. I parked the bus, disconnected the truck and found that it would not shift out of neutral. I managed to get it in gear by rapidly pumping the clutch pedal, but it happened again. I looked in the clutch master cylinder and found that the rubber gasket had been drawn into the cylinder (a sign of fluid leakage). I bummed a ride to the parts store for some brake fluid. I filled the cylinder, repositioned the gasket, replaced the cover and pumped the pedal a few times. The clutch then worked normally. I inquired to a number of friends about the problem and I learned that the clutch slave cylinder was prone to leaking. Further, unlike my Blazer, which has the clutch slave cylinder outside the bell housing, the Mazda/Ranger is located around the input shaft of the transmission so the transmission has to be removed to replace it. I did not want to do that in MI because I was on my way to Arizona where it was warm. In fact, it was not convenient for me to replace the slave cylinder for several more years. I ran the vehicle without difficulty by periodically checking to make sure there was sufficient fluid in the clutch master cylinder. As long as I kept it topped off, I never had a problem with shifting. If I became lax in maintenance, I could always tell because the clutch would become sloppy. I always carried 1-½ cans of brake fluid. The half can; pours easily and avoids spills. Make sure you keep the cap tight to avoid moisture getting into a partially filled can
In 2003 the clutch wore out so I replaced the clutch and the slave cylinder at the same time. You can find slave cylinders on-line for much less than local parts stores and a number of them have lifetime warranties. I still tow the truck and the clutch and slave cylinder are still working well.
I’m telling you of this experience because the majority of the experts recommended that I replace the slave cylinder immediately. I saved myself a lot of work by not having to remove the transmission twice or not replacing the clutch prematurely. As a matter of fact, it was only a slight inconvenience until the clutch wore out.
I am curious if anybody has ever had a catastrophic leak that would not respond to refilling the clutch master cylinder. I suppose if that is a possibility, one might elect to replace the slave cylinder right away. Nonetheless, I would still probably do the same thing if it happened again.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 8,462
Likes: 4
From: Durant, OK (SOSU)
They're typically won't be.
Best thing to do is check the master cylinder on the firewall, assuming the fluid level is correct (up to the ledge), check for leaks on both sides of the firewall around the master cylinder. If there are none, look at the area in which the clutch line goes into the bellhousing. If there are no leaks there, to fix it, the transmission has to come out one way or another.
Best thing to do is check the master cylinder on the firewall, assuming the fluid level is correct (up to the ledge), check for leaks on both sides of the firewall around the master cylinder. If there are none, look at the area in which the clutch line goes into the bellhousing. If there are no leaks there, to fix it, the transmission has to come out one way or another.
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Mountain Pass
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 138
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As posted before, usually rolling a bit will allow the shift to move in freely.
Worst case scenario (as it was with my 1994 some time ago), it was a sign of the clutch failing...
Worst case scenario (as it was with my 1994 some time ago), it was a sign of the clutch failing...
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