Separating the front drum from hub?
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Separating the front drum from hub?
I am trying to replace a front brake drum on my '63 f100 and am not sure about a few things. After looking at the drum and hub it appears to me that the wheel studs hold the drum to the hub using a mechanical fastener and the stud threads are distorted (mushroomed slightly?) to prevent the stud from backing out.
I need to remove the 5 studs and am wanting to know what is the best method of doing this? Also, it is not clear to me how the outer hub is removed (where the outer bearing, nut and dust cap are mounted). Does this come off once the studs are removed? Thanks in advance!
I need to remove the 5 studs and am wanting to know what is the best method of doing this? Also, it is not clear to me how the outer hub is removed (where the outer bearing, nut and dust cap are mounted). Does this come off once the studs are removed? Thanks in advance!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Why are you replacing the drum? wear or to put new linings In. or possibly wheel cylenders.
The wheel studs are swaged mechanically to retain the drum An arbor press will be needed or a hydraulic press to "Press" out the studs from the entire assembly.
The spindle nut is accessed by removal of the dust cap on the end of the hub and removal of the cotter key. spindle nut retainer and then the nut itself. everything then comes off of the spindle shaft.
Now is a good time to replace the inner seal and the inner and outer wheel bearings and races.
If you have a leaking wheel cylender be aware thet No One carries the single push type that for some god forsaken reason ford installed on 1963 trucks.
Sounds like a good time to do a disc brake upgrade.
Garbz
PS A factory shop manual describes the hub removal procedure in detail...
The wheel studs are swaged mechanically to retain the drum An arbor press will be needed or a hydraulic press to "Press" out the studs from the entire assembly.
The spindle nut is accessed by removal of the dust cap on the end of the hub and removal of the cotter key. spindle nut retainer and then the nut itself. everything then comes off of the spindle shaft.
Now is a good time to replace the inner seal and the inner and outer wheel bearings and races.
If you have a leaking wheel cylender be aware thet No One carries the single push type that for some god forsaken reason ford installed on 1963 trucks.
Sounds like a good time to do a disc brake upgrade.
Garbz
PS A factory shop manual describes the hub removal procedure in detail...
Last edited by IB Tim; Jul 2, 2007 at 09:00 AM.
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Hi Garb! Thank you for the reply! I should have set up my situation better before asking questions.
The hub/drum assembly is currently off of the truck and the drum replacement is due to a large crack along the inside edge.
I did a brake job on this truck a few years ago and upgraded the wheel cylinders and grease seals then. I have wondered what Ford's reasoning was for going with the half cylinder.
A disc brake upgrade is in this truck's near future. I need to gather up everything needed for that so I can do the job relatively quick. The old parts will stay with the truck for a possible restore.
As for the problem at hand, I believe you answered my question about the studs. I need to have the old studs removed and new studs pressed on, is that correct? The outer hub is still attached to the drum and is not apparent to me how it comes off or held on for that matter. It appears to be pressed on as well. I appreciate your help, Garb!
Terry
The hub/drum assembly is currently off of the truck and the drum replacement is due to a large crack along the inside edge.
I did a brake job on this truck a few years ago and upgraded the wheel cylinders and grease seals then. I have wondered what Ford's reasoning was for going with the half cylinder.
A disc brake upgrade is in this truck's near future. I need to gather up everything needed for that so I can do the job relatively quick. The old parts will stay with the truck for a possible restore.
As for the problem at hand, I believe you answered my question about the studs. I need to have the old studs removed and new studs pressed on, is that correct? The outer hub is still attached to the drum and is not apparent to me how it comes off or held on for that matter. It appears to be pressed on as well. I appreciate your help, Garb!
Terry
Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
If you are a good shot then you could use a 5 lb. small sledge and whack each stud in a circle. That will separate the drum from the hub. Did just that on my '65 which had the same pressed on deal. Asked a machinist/ex-seabee friend who took the hub from me and promptly gave it a few good whacks. Oh, so that is how you do it...
Then a few more whacks using a large vise as a platform and out popped the studs. Some more whacks from the other side and in went the studs.
Then a few more whacks using a large vise as a platform and out popped the studs. Some more whacks from the other side and in went the studs.
Elder User
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 581
Likes: 1
From: Montana
4WIW- i have run into this same problem a few times in the past and it's not fun removing the hubs from the spindal. first try and back off the brake adjuster in the hub.may not be possible if it's rusted bad enough, sometimes they dont wanna turn very well. the reason you do this is if the drum has worn enough over the years the brake shoes will have to be pried over the lip to get it apart. makes it twice as hard to get apart. when you get it apart either replace them or do a thougho cleaning on them, i use two large screwdrivers or pry bars and wedge them from the back side into the hub and back plate. appling pressure to both and smack the hub with a hammer and also the drum around the center hole.the fit is very tight around the center and over the years they like to rust together. once you get it off the first time they will come on and off a lot easier. hope i did't confuse you more. Dutch
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