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Is it possible for me to flat tow my B2? It has the push button transfer case so there is no neutral option, but it has a standard transmission. Do I just take it out of gear and go, or is this not an option on my model B2. If not what can I do to change it to be able? Thanks in advance.
straight up, honest, easiest, headache free way is to pull the front and rear drive shafts. Then there is no questions to which is the right way and wrong way. I've seen this question asked before and everyone has a different idea. PULL THE DRIVESHAFTS and be done!
I have to agree with Jeff on this one, mainly because your only option for putting the t-case in neutral is to pull the shift motor. It'd be easier to just pull at least the rear driveshaft, but if you have automatic hubs, it's best to pull both. Mine is all manual, so I usually leave the hubs unlocked and put everything in neutral.
mine is an '86 EB, auto/od, it is set up with a drive shaft slip yoke, pull a choke cable thingy under driver's seat and it disconnects the drive shaft, about $1500 installed. it has been towed thousands of miles this way. the alternative, would be to convert the transfer case to a manual shift. the elec.shift is same transfer case as man.shift, just need to change the shift method.
ya i would try to tow bar it or anything like that if theres no neutral position becasue my dad acidentally left his in gear and burned up the t case and tranny but it might work if you leave it in 2h but not sure
Looks like I'm stuck with a trailer queen if I want to take it anywhere to go offroading. I cant afford to make any serious mods to it, and it's just to easy to pull it on the trailer as opposed to pulling shafts. Thanks for the info guys.
That's what mine is..stays on the trailer when not on the trails. With 4 inch suspension and 3 inch body and 35.12.50x15 inch tires it drives ok under 40mph..but after that probably cuz it's been steadily wheeled every weekend for 3yrs.
My b2 has front locking hubs and when I use a tow bar to tow mine I unlock my front hubs and just take the bolts out of the differencial 4 bolts and then I just tie the driveshaft up out of the way.
Hey I'm glad I took a look at this thread, because I'm moving to North Carolina from Alabama and I was thinking about towing my B2 with a tow dolly, but now I'm certain I will use the car hauler. Thankd for being there everyone!
The BorgWarner 1350 transfer case doesn't have a rear pump. Drag it very far and the bearings will seize - turning your BII into an anchor. My retired boss tried it behind his motor home on a snowbird trip from Montana to Arizona.
I beg to differ, 5.0: http://therangerstation.com/tech_lib...sferCases.html. Not to mention I flat towed my '87 BII at an average of 55-60 mph over the course of several days from Seattle-area, Washington to Virginia Beach, Virginia (That's like 3000-3500 miles). I think your boss' BII's transfer case probably had bad bearings and/or a bad pump and that is why it seized. The 1350 and 1354 cases are almost identical, and I believe the main difference between the two is the front output yokes... but I could be wrong. *shrug*
Update- Kernel is absolutely correct. Just finished perusing my shop manual. the B/W 1350 has an oiling pump run by the rear output shaft. anchor it in neutral and tow to your heart's content!
The only problem with this method isthat it takes up more space and costs a bit more, but I prefer having a trailer to save wear and tear on the tow vehicle. Trailer parts are much cheaper to replace in general, why should i put wear on the wheel bearings and differentials when I'm not even driving it. In most states you must also put an emergency brake on your towalong, but a trailer can be equipped with brakes for a lot cheaper.