When to replace the belts?
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 5,720
Likes: 5
From: Washington state
serpentine belt change on later 4L A/C Aeros is easy....1 spring loaded tensioner to force back....belt off....tensioner released.....thread belt out over fan blade and between radiator
new belt=reverse process
new belt=reverse process
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 718
Likes: 0
From: North Jersey, New Jersey
Yep same on my 3.0 I didn't time myself but I can do in about 10 mins now.
I don't understand why forcing tensioner back is made out to be such a chore you don't need any special tools. I use a standard 3/8 socket wrench with a standard socket on the tensioner bolt and push down on it to release the tensioner.
I use one trick when installing the belt on the 3.0 route the belt properly through all the pulleys accept when you come to the top idler don't run it under run it over.
This allows slack on the belt so its easier later to tension it you may have to compress the tensioner a bit on a new belt that hasn't stretched yet to get it over one of the other pulleys but not on an old or broken in one.
Now once you've checked that that belt is sitting properly on all the pulleys press on the tensioner and at the same time with your other hand press the belt down under the idler and release the tensioner done
.
Personally I use the Goodyear Gatorbacks they're really nice belts.
I don't understand why forcing tensioner back is made out to be such a chore you don't need any special tools. I use a standard 3/8 socket wrench with a standard socket on the tensioner bolt and push down on it to release the tensioner.
I use one trick when installing the belt on the 3.0 route the belt properly through all the pulleys accept when you come to the top idler don't run it under run it over.
This allows slack on the belt so its easier later to tension it you may have to compress the tensioner a bit on a new belt that hasn't stretched yet to get it over one of the other pulleys but not on an old or broken in one.
Now once you've checked that that belt is sitting properly on all the pulleys press on the tensioner and at the same time with your other hand press the belt down under the idler and release the tensioner done
.Personally I use the Goodyear Gatorbacks they're really nice belts.
Last edited by krankshaft; Jul 8, 2007 at 12:30 PM.
Junior User
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 96
Likes: 0
From: south of France
I've said about Loctite, this one of my bigger blunders with my van; with a friend (an installed mechanics) we had to use an open wrench with a long tube and a special tool around the water pulley, this tool is normally used to remove spherics elements on Citroen oleopneumatics suspensions and has big teeth; after a full bucket of sweat the thread decided to loose. After that I had to restore the thread with a small triangular file. Now I am more prudent when doing mechanics, kicking away bothering peoples, specialy my brother-in-law, and all these kind of man who reinvent the wheel every day (" why the telephones have not a handle to produce electricity? this is a good idea, don't you think?)
Junior User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Did mine (4l, V6, 2wd) a while back. My tensioner has a 3/8 square drive in the center. Stick a 3/8 breaker bar in it and move it back pretty easily. Slipped the belt between the shroud and the fan. Accessed the tensioner from underneath the van.
My reading up on belts is that cracks across the ribs on the bottom of the belt are normal. Bound to happen with that much bending. Any cracks that run longitudinal, in the direction of the belt, loose, or hanging pieces of rubber, fraying along the edges is bad, hard glazing from heat or slippage is bad. The belt strength is in the cording in the main body of the belt.
I still get kind of nervous when I see too many cracks, too close together on the ribbing, though.
My reading up on belts is that cracks across the ribs on the bottom of the belt are normal. Bound to happen with that much bending. Any cracks that run longitudinal, in the direction of the belt, loose, or hanging pieces of rubber, fraying along the edges is bad, hard glazing from heat or slippage is bad. The belt strength is in the cording in the main body of the belt.
I still get kind of nervous when I see too many cracks, too close together on the ribbing, though.
