Where's the thread for modifing the fog lights to be on with the high beams for an 02 F250?

 

Instructions are in this thread. Be careful. I smoked my headlight switch doing this.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...ith+high+beams

 

Hey Scott, you beat me to it. I was going to tell him about the same thread that I had started. I finally got the "BRITE BOX" and was done with it. You can check out this thread but it didn't work for my truck. I also did a search on Ebay and there was a guy that sold a couple of relays all pre assembled that worked fine too. I did that one first and it worked like a charm. It basically uses the high beam wire to trigger a relay to send battery voltage to the foglights AND the low beams. Essentially you have fogs, high and low beams when you switch to high beams. I had the relay setup and it worked fine, but when you hit the high beams with the fog light switch on, it would power up the instrument lights with the key off. This was a factor of how the remote start was wired up. Something about getting a power wire for the remote start through the lights and ignition system...not sure exactly since I didn't do it....anyway, I got the BRITE BOX and it did exactly the same thing, so I just live with it.....and it is an enclosed setup that electrically does the exact same thing the relay and harness does. Basically taps into the wireing of the headlights, uses the high beam to trigger a relay to send current back to the low beam and fogs....Here is the link to the instructions on the thread in case it doesn't work there.... Take care and have fun.....Dave

http://www.ssdiv.com/fogfix.html

 

Hey Dave. I remember when you and I both were trying to do this.

I ended up going with the Brite Box with the fog light control and it works great.

 

Here is the link for the ebay auction and like I said they are about the same thing and this mrheadlight thing is about the same thing as the bright box but I got the brite box and it worked fine for me too....Either one works and it is just a matter of how much wiring you want to do. I got the Brite Box and when it comes to the exhaust brake, I will probably do the expensive SP diesel box which is plug and play and uses the cruise switches to activate and disable the exhaust back pressure valve for braking....(not to hijack the thread) but I shy away from cutting, splicing and messing with wires..however cutting the wire on the passenger kick panel to keep my lie-o-meter bright with the headlights on was a snip I tried and it worked!! Here is the link to the Ebay listing for $15 and the link for the brite box is below that one...either choice is good...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/05-08...spagenameZWDVW

Here for the brite box... http://www.thebritebox.com/