No EGE position signal
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No EGE position signal
This one is driving me a little nuts. 1990 4.9 EFI 6. Things running like crap in the morning and evening. Motor wants to die every time I drop the gas every time I take my foot off the accelerator. When its the middle of the day and the temperature hits 100+ (Arizona dry heat) it runs great.
Im guessing either the ignition timing isn't advancing/retarding when it should or im having a problem with the throttle position sensor on the throttle body. Ran the code reader on it and got the no EGE position signal code flashing. Im at a loss. Any ideas/suggestions?
Im guessing either the ignition timing isn't advancing/retarding when it should or im having a problem with the throttle position sensor on the throttle body. Ran the code reader on it and got the no EGE position signal code flashing. Im at a loss. Any ideas/suggestions?
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From: Indiana
The book I have with my code reader says the code 35 means one of the following.
EGR valve position sensor or pressure feedback EGR sensor: signal voltage above self test specification limits
Or
Signal voltage too high during normal engine operation.
You need to check out if your egr valve is operating properly. Start your engine and unplug the vacuum line to the egr valve and see if it runs differently. Sounds like from the code you have a voltage problem either coming from the computer or going back to the computer.
Do you have any way to check the voltage supplied to the egr system?
EGR valve position sensor or pressure feedback EGR sensor: signal voltage above self test specification limits
Or
Signal voltage too high during normal engine operation.
You need to check out if your egr valve is operating properly. Start your engine and unplug the vacuum line to the egr valve and see if it runs differently. Sounds like from the code you have a voltage problem either coming from the computer or going back to the computer.
Do you have any way to check the voltage supplied to the egr system?
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Yup. Got ye olde rusty trusty voltmeter in my tool box. Never leave home without it.
Have the other codes. Ran the test with the engine cold. Where the problem is most prevalent. Seems to go away when the engine gets to operating temperature.
21- Cooling temp sensor our of range/ECT out of rang
35- Not going to recap that.
44- Thermactor (why in the heck can't ford call it a smog pump like everyone else?) air system fault (already know about it. it's the diverter valve)
67- Air conditioning compressor switch fault. Another problem I am very well aware of in the arizona summer heat.
Im hoping its not anything assosiated with the EGR valve. Just replaced the valve and sensor about 6 months ago. Ill go test it out though. Thanks.
Have the other codes. Ran the test with the engine cold. Where the problem is most prevalent. Seems to go away when the engine gets to operating temperature.
21- Cooling temp sensor our of range/ECT out of rang
35- Not going to recap that.
44- Thermactor (why in the heck can't ford call it a smog pump like everyone else?) air system fault (already know about it. it's the diverter valve)
67- Air conditioning compressor switch fault. Another problem I am very well aware of in the arizona summer heat.
Im hoping its not anything assosiated with the EGR valve. Just replaced the valve and sensor about 6 months ago. Ill go test it out though. Thanks.
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Weeeeellllllll.
Pulled the vacume line to the EGR valve. No change. Of course the engine is nice and warm now. I would think the EGR would open up during a cold startup due to the nature of piston engines.
Of curious note. Took some spare vacume line and ran it from an open port on the manifold to the EGR valve. It produced a similar erratic "loping" idle.
Pulled the vacume line to the EGR valve. No change. Of course the engine is nice and warm now. I would think the EGR would open up during a cold startup due to the nature of piston engines.
Of curious note. Took some spare vacume line and ran it from an open port on the manifold to the EGR valve. It produced a similar erratic "loping" idle.
Elder User
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From: Indiana
The egr valve should never be open when the motor is cold or at an idle. Should only work when above an idle, motor warmed up, and while driving.
If you go out to start it and it's running rough disconnect the vacuum line to the egr and see if that makes a difference.
You may also want to clear the codes from the computer and then drive it and see what codes show back up.
If you go out to start it and it's running rough disconnect the vacuum line to the egr and see if that makes a difference.
You may also want to clear the codes from the computer and then drive it and see what codes show back up.
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Elder User
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From: Indiana
Sorry just realized you had other codes from the other post. If your having a coolant temp sensor code it could be bad. If it doesn't work the computer could think that the engine is always cold and the motor would run in a over rich state all the time. You should check this 1st.
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Engine isn't running rich. First thing I checked was the ignition. Figured it could use a tune up as the plugs/wire/cap/rotor had 30k+ miles on them. Had a nice healthy coat of white powdery residue on the plugs I pulled out. The O2 sensor probably could use replacing as well come to think of it. Pulled the original factory one out at 143k.
Ran the tester. Cleared the codes before I ran the tester on it again. Reciently replaced the water pump and thermostat. The engine does seem to run cooler than it did before despite me jumping up to a 190deg thermostat. But I always figured the temp gauge was out of whack anyways. I'll check that one later. Also wondering if it could be the fuel pumps/regulator/injectors. 181k is a long ways to go.
Will try the EGR line again. It's been sitting all night and I work graves so I know its nice and cool. Hopefully this is it.
Ran the tester. Cleared the codes before I ran the tester on it again. Reciently replaced the water pump and thermostat. The engine does seem to run cooler than it did before despite me jumping up to a 190deg thermostat. But I always figured the temp gauge was out of whack anyways. I'll check that one later. Also wondering if it could be the fuel pumps/regulator/injectors. 181k is a long ways to go.
Will try the EGR line again. It's been sitting all night and I work graves so I know its nice and cool. Hopefully this is it.
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Pulled the vac line. No change. Did a wiggle test on the sensor. The motor would smooth out then sputter. Pulled the wire off the sensor completely and didn't have a single problem on the way back home. Wonder if I got a bad sensor to start with?
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It's official. Bad sensor.
EGR valve went bad about eight months ago. Check engine light never came on though. Replaced the valve and the sensor, as recommended, at the same time and the check engine light came on immediately. Should have been my first clue.
Anyways. Pulled the old sensor off the old valve (dad was and is a ford guy, learned from him it pays off to keep the old stuff "just in case") and plugged it in. Works like a charm now.
Thanks for your help Ranger.
EGR valve went bad about eight months ago. Check engine light never came on though. Replaced the valve and the sensor, as recommended, at the same time and the check engine light came on immediately. Should have been my first clue.
Anyways. Pulled the old sensor off the old valve (dad was and is a ford guy, learned from him it pays off to keep the old stuff "just in case") and plugged it in. Works like a charm now.
Thanks for your help Ranger.
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