Replacing Head Gaskets 4.0 - Pictures
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Replacing Head Gaskets 4.0 - Pictures
96_4wdr want to see a picture of the area of the leak. Here's the best I could manage. Because the leak is under the exhaust manifold, it was impossible to photograph it from under the van. Here is a shot of the leaking area after the head has been removed. If you look carefully, you will notice the right side coolant passage is completely occluded. Normally, there is a hold about the size of a pencil in the center of that dimpled, triangular looking area. The coolant was evidently forced its way outside about dead center at the top.
There was a brittle, build up of scale, almost like hard water deposits, but only on the head gasket, in the areas where the coolant passes through the gasket. The interior surfaces of the cast iron head did not have this scale build up. The scale was perhaps 2mm thick in some places.
I had added some more pictures, then took them out as I am not sure if posting a lot is permitted these days. I thought I would start the thread and add pictures and a tutorial from the notes I took to assist others who may be contemplating this chore.
There was a brittle, build up of scale, almost like hard water deposits, but only on the head gasket, in the areas where the coolant passes through the gasket. The interior surfaces of the cast iron head did not have this scale build up. The scale was perhaps 2mm thick in some places.
I had added some more pictures, then took them out as I am not sure if posting a lot is permitted these days. I thought I would start the thread and add pictures and a tutorial from the notes I took to assist others who may be contemplating this chore.
Last edited by aerocolorado; Jun 26, 2007 at 08:40 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Washington state
thanks aeroC,
nice picture...really details water jacket flow hole plugging, all visible in photo have noticable plugging
think the localized heating from the water flow restrictions caused the head gasket failure and pinging?
what type of water and coolant used in system?
how you going to get scale deposits out of block, heater cores and radiator? my theory is that scale deposits are dissimilar metal ion attracted to head gaskets and other alloys in cooling system such as radiator and heaters...the crud usually settles out in the back of heads and blocks....steam cleaner or high air pressure?
not much carbon in comb. chamber
lucky you caught it when you did....those 4Ls are tough engines
an aluminum head/block ricer would have melted down or blown up
nice picture...really details water jacket flow hole plugging, all visible in photo have noticable plugging
think the localized heating from the water flow restrictions caused the head gasket failure and pinging?
what type of water and coolant used in system?
how you going to get scale deposits out of block, heater cores and radiator? my theory is that scale deposits are dissimilar metal ion attracted to head gaskets and other alloys in cooling system such as radiator and heaters...the crud usually settles out in the back of heads and blocks....steam cleaner or high air pressure?
not much carbon in comb. chamber
lucky you caught it when you did....those 4Ls are tough engines
an aluminum head/block ricer would have melted down or blown up
Last edited by 96_4wdr; Jun 26, 2007 at 09:40 PM.
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Similar to a movie camera adding 10 lbs to actors, photos add a bunch more grime and goop than in real life. The heads, pistons and gantries were surprisingly clean for such high mileage. I replaced a head gasket on my daughter-in-law's Escort with less than half the mileage and it looked horrible in comparison.
There was so little build up, a good wire brushing was all the heads needed.
Copper and 96_, any advice on how one guy can get those heads back in without destroying the new gaskets? I've already tried several Rube Goldberg contraptions to trolley the heads in and out without much success. There just isn't sufficient head room for even a Lilleputian winch/pulley arrangement.
There was so little build up, a good wire brushing was all the heads needed.
Copper and 96_, any advice on how one guy can get those heads back in without destroying the new gaskets? I've already tried several Rube Goldberg contraptions to trolley the heads in and out without much success. There just isn't sufficient head room for even a Lilleputian winch/pulley arrangement.
Postmaster
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From: Southern California
Hi Dave:
I have never done a head gasket with the engine still in the van, so I can't offer any advice there.
The only advices I have you probably already knew:
1) Keep the old gasket for comparison with the new one. There are several versions of heads for the 4.0L, it gets confusing sometimes.
2) Get new head bolts. This is an absolute necessity. Lube the bolts with engine oil before putting them on, or the torque won't be correct.
3) We have cast iron head on cast iron block, so there is no mismatch in expansion coefficient, and the gaskets should be fine going on dry without any dressing.
4) Remove the valve springs yourself, and take the heads to a shop to have the valves and the seats cut and the head resurfaced. It costs me $40 for each head, but you have to disassemble the heads first.
Good luck and let us know how it comes out.
I have never done a head gasket with the engine still in the van, so I can't offer any advice there.
The only advices I have you probably already knew:
1) Keep the old gasket for comparison with the new one. There are several versions of heads for the 4.0L, it gets confusing sometimes.
2) Get new head bolts. This is an absolute necessity. Lube the bolts with engine oil before putting them on, or the torque won't be correct.
3) We have cast iron head on cast iron block, so there is no mismatch in expansion coefficient, and the gaskets should be fine going on dry without any dressing.
4) Remove the valve springs yourself, and take the heads to a shop to have the valves and the seats cut and the head resurfaced. It costs me $40 for each head, but you have to disassemble the heads first.
Good luck and let us know how it comes out.
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2003
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From: SoCal
Each time I had to replace a water pump, I've always found calcium build-ups in their water passages, even though I've always used reverse-osmosed or distilled water to fill them. In one case, it was a car that I've owned since new. So I'm wondering if they get purified water from the factory.
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Post Fiend
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From: Washington state
pull the tranny back
loosen motor mounts
jack the block up and forward
lots of extra work but less than removing engine
or 2 guys with four hands...one outside and one from doghouse....slide head back on top of crank valley...slip on headgasket...believe there is only one dowl pin in block surface...both lift head over and position on block with 2 head bolts in head holes already for align
could be worse...friend just had head gaskets and bolts replaced on his E350 6L diesel...Ford shop had to lift body off frame....
total bill $4800 and 3 weeks down time
loosen motor mounts
jack the block up and forward
lots of extra work but less than removing engine
or 2 guys with four hands...one outside and one from doghouse....slide head back on top of crank valley...slip on headgasket...believe there is only one dowl pin in block surface...both lift head over and position on block with 2 head bolts in head holes already for align
could be worse...friend just had head gaskets and bolts replaced on his E350 6L diesel...Ford shop had to lift body off frame....
total bill $4800 and 3 weeks down time
Last edited by 96_4wdr; Jun 27, 2007 at 07:04 AM.
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Each time I had to replace a water pump, I've always found calcium build-ups in their water passages, even though I've always used reverse-osmosed or distilled water to fill them. In one case, it was a car that I've owned since new. So I'm wondering if they get purified water from the factory.
I understand distilling can concentrate some metals / minerals. Distilling concentrates alcohol! That may explain you finding deposits always on your cars. I assume some deposits are inevitable. I change and flush my car cooling systems every 5 years. Never seen one clean after all those years. Coolant itself breaks down. I use simple faucet mount water filters.
Posting Guru
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From: Orland USA
Aerocolorado:
What you might try is get a couple of wedges and put one at the front and one at the rear after you put the gasket on the block. Set the head in and lift the back enough to get the wedge out and set the head where it needs to be, then lift the front just enough to get the other wedge out. Give the head a little wiggle to seat it down good. Install the bolts.
JaY
What you might try is get a couple of wedges and put one at the front and one at the rear after you put the gasket on the block. Set the head in and lift the back enough to get the wedge out and set the head where it needs to be, then lift the front just enough to get the other wedge out. Give the head a little wiggle to seat it down good. Install the bolts.
JaY
Post Fiend
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From: Washington state
block and head castings both in iron and aluminum contain quantities of contaminants including calcium which leach out of the metal as it heats and cools and with corrosion
most pre HOAT antifreeze are made with silicate and other minerals/chemicals which can settle out over time and build up scale as the dispersants and suspendants wear out.
most pre HOAT antifreeze are made with silicate and other minerals/chemicals which can settle out over time and build up scale as the dispersants and suspendants wear out.
I understand distilling can concentrate some metals / minerals. Distilling concentrates alcohol! That may explain you finding deposits always on your cars. I assume some deposits are inevitable. I change and flush my car cooling systems every 5 years. Never seen one clean after all those years. Coolant itself breaks down. I use simple faucet mount water filters.
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Aerocolorado:
What you might try is get a couple of wedges and put one at the front and one at the rear after you put the gasket on the block. Set the head in and lift the back enough to get the wedge out and set the head where it needs to be, then lift the front just enough to get the other wedge out. Give the head a little wiggle to seat it down good. Install the bolts.
JaY
What you might try is get a couple of wedges and put one at the front and one at the rear after you put the gasket on the block. Set the head in and lift the back enough to get the wedge out and set the head where it needs to be, then lift the front just enough to get the other wedge out. Give the head a little wiggle to seat it down good. Install the bolts.
JaY
Last edited by aerocolorado; May 8, 2008 at 03:18 PM. Reason: add a emoticon
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