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I am having the same issues with heating as you are, My truck has a Sm Block Olds motor ( Don't ask I purchased it that way ) The P/O had 1 electric fan pulling.it ran 210 plus and had a hard time cooling off after a long hard run. I removed that and installed a 18 inch OEM ford flex fan with a 2 inch spacer to get the fan closer to the radiator, That helped somewhat, I just found a Chrysler fan shroud that will work and plan on installing it over the weekend. I will keep you posted.
Vern, I agree with AX. And, I believe that the 195* thermostat helped you by opening all the way as it should. Perhaps your old one was only opening part way due to age or corrosion, thus restricting flow. Also, some designs of thermostats have bigger openings than others for what ever reason. Jag
Could it have had something to do with keeping the coolant in the radiator longer? Since the 195 opened later more heat was dissipated by the radiator. Does that make sense? I know that if coolant circulates too fast and doesn't stay in the radiator long enough the temperature constantly creeps up. So, the question is, would the 195 thermostat slow down coolant circulation more than a 160 or not?
No, it would just start the process later, A open fully open thermostat is moving the same amount of water, no matter what degree it starts to open. did that add to the confussion ?
Actually that is why a vehicle will run hot with no thermostat, water flows too fast to adequately cool. A thermostat will restrict the flow even when open.
Actually that is why a vehicle will run hot with no thermostat, water flows too fast to adequately cool. A thermostat will restrict the flow even when open.
I wonder if the amount of restriction varies according to the degree of the thermostat? I know there has to be a delicate balance in how long the water stays in the radiator to dissipate heat and how fast it circulates...
I think you are right about the delicate balance Vern. As radiators age their efficiency declines. And eventually, the rads' ability to exchange heat is less than is required for hot weather days. Once this happens, rads boil over and we are forced to replace or rerod them. (The balance is exceeded) A higher temp thermostat will help the engine run at an efficient temp, but once it is fully open we are completely dependant on the rads' ability to cool the engine. My old rad would not bring the temp back down on hot days even driving on the freeway. So, since it was old and ugly, I bought the new US Radiator and all is well. And yes, I agree that we should not be removing the thermostat. I know people do this out of frustration, but it is not the answer. Jag
Thanks guys for all the information and suggestions. I originally bought the 16" puller fan to replace the existing engine fan but when i took the engine fan off there was not enough clearance from the end of the water pump to the rad. I only have abought 2 1/4" to 2 1/2" clear. When that didn't fit thats when i bought the pusher fans and mounted at the front of the rad. So now i am running the two electric fans plus the engine fan. These should work thru the rest of the summer and then i am going to buy a new rad. this winter.
My buddy was frustrated by the constant problem of overheating in his 56 effie. He is running a 460 that runs hot even at freeway speeds. He was running a stock radiator, then a US Radiator. He has just installed a new aluminum radiator from a maker in Phoenix. It works great and he is finally happy. However, he is still paying off the credit card bill. The radiator, fan and shroud combo cost hime $1200.
So far the set-up i have now seems to be working ok. I will decide what i am going to do as a final solution after we get home from the Columbus Goodguys in a couple of weeks. I don't think i am going to spend $1200 dollars. My other half would probably ship me and the truck somewhere else.
I wanted to post with the results of installing a clutch style fan and shroud on my 55. ( Olds small blk. ) I dropped 30 degrees by removing the electric fan installed by the P/O and going back to a clutch fan ( thermal type ) and a fan shroud. I now plan on removing the 160 thermostat and installing a 180 thermostat to get the temp up. no doubt the shroud is what helped the most.
Well, I don't know who to agree or disagree with. My truck came from W. Virginia (cold winters) It ran hottish down here in the Florida summer with the 195 deg t-stat that was in it. The BEST mechanic I know suggested a colder thermostat. I said that would only speed up the warm up time. Open is open. he said "try it". My truck runs runs a full 20 Degrees cooler with the 165 I put in.
I agree with you, Open is open but a motor will never run cooler then the thermostat opening degree. From my experience it will run 10 to 15 degrees above it if the cooling system is in good shape. I am fighting Florida summer heat also.
I agree with you, Open is open but a motor will never run cooler then the thermostat opening degree. From my experience it will run 10 to 15 degrees above it if the cooling system is in good shape. I am fighting Florida summer heat also.
You sir are correct! Raerjim, I suspect a 195* winter thermostat may have a smaller passage in the full open position than a 165* so the engine doesn't go cold again as soon as the thermostat opens in the dead of winter.
Ax, I think you may be right. I have heard numerous stories over the years about this working sometimes, and I think there is more to it than just the temp rating. Thermostats are made by different companies with many different designs. The reason for the different results might be the orifice size or the distance the waffer opens. I have also seen some models that have a mini spring-loaded waffer on the main waffer! I don't know what it does, but I'm sure it can't be pretty. So the moral of the story is: Maybe it's not the temp rating of the thermostate, but the flow characteristics. Jag