Oil Change time
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,241
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From: Powder Springs, East TN
Oil Change time
Hey guys, I am about to change my oil and I was wondering what everyone runs, and I was thinking about going full syn, how much does it usually run and what brand does everyone run? What about the oil filter, I was also thinking about an oil bypass filter or something along the lines of that to save from the 5000 mile oils change. I have an 01 F-250 with a 110K on the ticker thanks in advance guys!
JD
JD
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,497
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From: Central, Al
The PSD loves FRESH CLEAN oil so all i will run is dino and change it every 5K.
I have always used DELO 400 15W40
Rotella is also a very good brand if you are running dino 15W40 CI-4 or CJ-4 API rated oil is what you want, If you are going synthetic 5W40 is the weight you want.
I have always used DELO 400 15W40
Rotella is also a very good brand if you are running dino 15W40 CI-4 or CJ-4 API rated oil is what you want, If you are going synthetic 5W40 is the weight you want.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
well, about the cheapest and most readily available (at Wally World) is Rotella 5W-40 Full Syn at ~$16/gallon. That's what I've been running. It's ~$50 per oil change with Rotella Dino and ~$75 for Rotella Syn (including Motorcraft FL-1995 filter in both cases). To me, it's a no brainer. And I don't stretch my oil changes much, so once it gets to 5-6k, I change it. To me, the extra hassle of doing OAs at $25-$35 a pop just ain't worth it if I can have fresh in there regularly. Just my humble opinion.....
Joe
Joe
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Joined: Mar 2004
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I run Rotella dino 15W-40 and change it every 5k (filters I get from www.fleetfilter.com).
I'd suggest running a quick search in this section, as well, as there've been a handful of threads in the past where folks have discussed their oil opinions... plenty of reading to do. I can't quite get as passionate about it, myself.
I'd suggest running a quick search in this section, as well, as there've been a handful of threads in the past where folks have discussed their oil opinions... plenty of reading to do. I can't quite get as passionate about it, myself.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2007
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From: Powder Springs, East TN
Well I have been running rotella for the last 15K and I assume that is what has always been run in the truck, I have changed it every 5000 I just thought going to full syn was alot more expensive then that. I heard about Royal purple is good but I was thinking of just sticking with Rotella. Going to Syn is alot better on the moter and the MPGs is it not? Thanks guys!
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
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From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Last time I checked, Royal Purple was pretty expensive (something like $7/QUART!). I've been running syn fluids now for years and will likely stick with them (in my gasser and PSD). I honestly can't say it absolutely helps one thing or another, but I do think they handle heat better and keeps parts from wearing less. Either or both of those are good enough reasons for me to spend 25 extra bucks on Rotella syn. If it helps my mileage a bit, I'll take it. Can't say that I've seen a much of a change after all my mods, but like most everyone else, I can't help but stick my foot into it from time to time eating whatever gains I had. I *CAN* say this though -- with the DP Tuner 80HP econo tune, my mileage has *NOT* gotten worse....
Joe
Joe
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted by Izzy351
Last time I checked, Royal Purple was pretty expensive (something like $7/QUART!).
Joe
Joe
Sold in 5-gallon pails or 1-gallon jugs (4-gallon minimum......Need that for a 7.3L anyway.......)
$19.95/gallon (if sold by the gallon).......$5.00/qt
$18.95/gallon (if sold in a 5-gallon pail)........$4.75/qt
Go to the ordering catalog if interested.....Have tranny fluid and grease also......
http://www.longrider.com/catalog.htm
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Joined: Jun 2007
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From: Eldorado springs,Mo
I have also looked at r/p. I read in Diesel world ? that they changed all fluids, Tranny,Diffs,T case, motor. They said they got 30 hp ( dyno ) and the trany ran much cooler . Just what ive read. hope it helps
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 20,589
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From: Charlotte, NC
That's a damn good question, Iz........Not sure......
Whatever in the heck "Freight will be added F.O.B. shipping point" means.......
I checked it about a year ago........Too late to dig into the site too much tonight......Didn't seem too much........
Whatever in the heck "Freight will be added F.O.B. shipping point" means.......
I checked it about a year ago........Too late to dig into the site too much tonight......Didn't seem too much........
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 20,589
Likes: 2
From: Charlotte, NC
Originally Posted by Izzy351
Oh, and it shows they only have 15W-40. Do they have a 5W-40 or no?
Looks like 15W-40......10W-30......and various SAE weights........
Do you have something against Royal Purple, aside from the cost?.........
Do you think maybe they've run millions of miles in the psd with 15W-40 weight with good results, despite amiller93s suggestion that you run 5W-40 if using synthetic?........
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
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From: Columbia, MO
Personally, I prefer the Shaeffer's 9000; it's a full synthetic. I'm all for the full synthetic, all year round. That's all I have used for the last 3 years, and the truck is pushing 170K now. I've run both Rotella and Mobil synthetics before I switched to the Schaeffers. Since I made the switch, it seems like the truck has been running better overall. I buy sorta bulk in gallong jugs, usually a case of 6 gallons at a time. Price comes out to about $5.75 a quart, shipped to my door.
For oil filters, I currently run an Oil guard for my main engine oil filter. But, their prices went up since I last bought, so I'll go with the Wix/NAPA filter for my next run. You can get them cheaper from www.fleetfilter.com than about anywhere else. Just don't run a Fram.
There are several quality bypass systems out there. I have an Oil Guard (www.oilguard.com) setup on mine (see My Pics link in sig for photos) and am very happy with it. It's a tough, thick metal unit, so it won't sustain any damage from road debris while mounted under the truck. Another popular setup that several members here run is a Motorguard bypass filter. I don't have much info about them though.
For oil filters, I currently run an Oil guard for my main engine oil filter. But, their prices went up since I last bought, so I'll go with the Wix/NAPA filter for my next run. You can get them cheaper from www.fleetfilter.com than about anywhere else. Just don't run a Fram.
There are several quality bypass systems out there. I have an Oil Guard (www.oilguard.com) setup on mine (see My Pics link in sig for photos) and am very happy with it. It's a tough, thick metal unit, so it won't sustain any damage from road debris while mounted under the truck. Another popular setup that several members here run is a Motorguard bypass filter. I don't have much info about them though.