#4 Cylinder Failed CC Test
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: CT
#4 Cylinder Failed CC Test
Well I got the P0272 code, but I can only make it fail when the motor has been idling for a min or more letting EGTs come down to about 300deg. If I look at the rotational velocity for all 8 cylinders they all read 0%, buzz test also checks out fine. The truck runs rough when I let it idle for more then a min, and when I start driving it still runs rough until EGTs come up a little, also it blows blue/white smoke when its running rough under heavy throttle. But to top this all off I have a peice of metal rattling around in my oil pan. I tried to fish it out for hrs with no luck. So my "guess" is that one of the oil cooling jet broke loose,which lead to scoring the cylinder wall giving low compression causing this problem. So whats this sound like to everyone else?
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
UUUUHHHH, not good.
How does it act on the first startup of the day? More exaggerated symptoms?
How's the blowby look if you remove the oil filler cap? A smooth stream or a puff puff puff?
How does it act on the first startup of the day? More exaggerated symptoms?
How's the blowby look if you remove the oil filler cap? A smooth stream or a puff puff puff?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Originally Posted by VQ2Fast4U
The first start is always the best. When I checked blow-by its nice and even, but should I cap the CCV and then check blow-by? Dont know if it would make a difference
What did you use for the CC test? What were the readings? =0???
Edit, never mind, I see the AE in the sig. Readings?
Last edited by Tenn01PSD350; Jun 25, 2007 at 11:38 PM.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: CT
Sorry for the stupid question, but what readings? I did the CC test and I got the P0272 code and an air intake heater code, but that where I have my boost gauge hooked up. I didnt know there was more to it then just a pass or fail.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,497
Likes: 7
From: Central, Al
I think Tenn was referring to the rotational values in live data.
To help fish that piece of metal out take a large magnet and slide it along the bottom of the oil pan till you get to the drain hole. If it is a cooling jet the motor will have to come out and without one of the cooling jet a piston can overheat rather quickly if pushed.
To help fish that piece of metal out take a large magnet and slide it along the bottom of the oil pan till you get to the drain hole. If it is a cooling jet the motor will have to come out and without one of the cooling jet a piston can overheat rather quickly if pushed.
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: CT
Well the rotational values were all 0%. As far as the metal in the pan I think it might be stuck up in the baffles of the oil pan, I tryed the magnet then went to a coat hanger to sweep around in there. Im sure I have overheated the piston because my truck is not running like it use to, and the hotter the motor gets the worse it runs.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
3 Best / Worst Features Of The 2025+ Ford Expedition
Brett Foote
10 Ways Ford is LOSING to the Competition
Joe Kucinski
Top 6 Best Deals Available on New Fords & Lincolns Right Now
Brett Foote
This Hennessey Takes the Expedition Tremor's Off-Roading Capability to the Next Level
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Fords at 2026 Carlisle Ford Nationals
Joe Kucinski
3 Best / 3 Worst Parts of Modern Ford Ownership
Brett Foote
10 Amazing Upgrades That Solve Common Ford Truck Owner Headaches
Pouria Savadkouei
Every 2026 Ford Engine Explained
Brett Foote
10 Ugly Ford Trucks That We Still Kinda Love
Joe Kucinski
Hotshot
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 10,764
Likes: 39
Originally Posted by VQ2Fast4U
Well the rotational values were all 0%. As far as the metal in the pan I think it might be stuck up in the baffles of the oil pan, I tryed the magnet then went to a coat hanger to sweep around in there. Im sure I have overheated the piston because my truck is not running like it use to, and the hotter the motor gets the worse it runs.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Originally Posted by VQ2Fast4U
Well the rotational values were all 0%. As far as the metal in the pan I think it might be stuck up in the baffles of the oil pan, I tryed the magnet then went to a coat hanger to sweep around in there. Im sure I have overheated the piston because my truck is not running like it use to, and the hotter the motor gets the worse it runs.
I wouldn't condemn the piston just yet. If the motor is hotter, there is more heat in the combustion chamber for the fuel to ignite with. With a diesel, a colder engine will run worst than a hotter engine if this were the case. Not the other way around as you are describing here.
Best thing to do is a compression test now.
I'm going to put out a WAG on a failing injector/o-ring and your piston hasn't melted down yet. Again, it's a WAG, only some diagnostics will confirm.
Last edited by Kwikkordead; Jun 26, 2007 at 09:35 AM.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: CT
Yeah I know I really have to do a compression test. I have some VAC time next week, I guess I know what I have to do. But theres still that peice of metal, I wish I could see what it is.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: CT
The oils full and new, I over change my oil if anything. How should I go about doing the compression test? I have a mityvac diesel compression gauge with the glowplug fitting. Should I just pull the fuel pump fuse and turn the motor over with the starter or by hand, and how many time should I turn over the motor for each cylinder? Or if anyone knows if this is outlined in the FSM DVD that would help because I cant seem to find it in there. If the compression looks good im going to switch the #4 and #2 injectors, see if the problem moves.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 25,090
Likes: 1,112
From: Rio Rico, AZ.
Turn the motor over with the starter, you'll never get it going fast enough by hand for an accurate reading.
What you want to disable is the injection, unplug the CPS or pull the IDM relay.
Do all the cylinders so you have a comparison.
What you want to disable is the injection, unplug the CPS or pull the IDM relay.
Do all the cylinders so you have a comparison.
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 487
Likes: 0
From: CT
Well I did the drivers side cylinders and came up with this.
#8-335.0
#6-383.0
#4-362.0
#2-361.5
I couldnt do the passenger side because I screwed up the threads on the glow plug adapter, so...
#8-335.0
#6-383.0
#4-362.0
#2-361.5
I couldnt do the passenger side because I screwed up the threads on the glow plug adapter, so...
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Those are fair #s. I couldn't get anyone to confirm what the Dealer tech told me about holding the pedal to the floor where it supposedly disables the injectors. Hope you can get a new adapter for the passenger side.