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My excursion has hard water spots on it.. I did buy it used,, One side has way more than the other... I have tried alot of things... Lime-Away.. nothing.. class cleaner...nothing... I even cut a lime in half and rubbed it on the window.. nothing.... I have never seen something such a pain in the butt.... I have come to think whoever had the truck before me,, must have had the truck parked a certain way in the drive every night and the sprinkler must have hit everyday.. I am running out of ideas... I ever tried oven cleaner... nothing... (its a motorcycle trick on chrome).... Truck is from the Ft. Lauderdale area in Florida if that helps.. I have never seen water marks that won't come off with anything I have...
if anyone has some ideas.. it would help me...
No compounds on clear coat.
Use A clay bar system, and then seal the finish with a good quality wax. The clay bar method should be done once in a while. I had a crazy amount of spots after the wife parked next to a sprinkler that was on. Black Excursion in the sun, with a sprinkler on. MAn was I upset, even the glass got messed up.
Clay bar is the safe way to go. Read the directions, and do not let the clay bar lubricant dry. You will be amazed at how well the truck turns out. Super smooth professional results.
I got water spots on my windows really bad when I lived in Florida. I used Barkeeper's Friend (kind of like comet, but not as abrasive) and it took it right off. I'm not sure I would use it on the paint, but if the windows are driving you crazy, you could try it.
You must get pretty agressive with your rubbing compound! Id try a polish first anyway as its easier on the paint, rubbing compund would be a last and final result in my opinion.
If you step up to a clearcoat id suggest looking into this. Specified as clearcoat safe and good for removing water spots. 3M makes some quality products too. Id stay away from using it with a machine though unless you have experience, hand only for this stuff in your case id say.
Use Bonami cleanser... I used to own a 1965 GTO and the factory service manual listed the product to clean windshields. Really... I use it all the time when detailing vehicles (a summer fun job).... Good luck!!
For my windows I used 000 stainless steel wool. I keep a few packages in the garage for all of my chrome and glass needs. It does not, and will not harm glass. Keep it away from painted surfaces though. Keeps the glass super clean, and water actually rolls right off after the window is clean. Works like a champ.
Do not under any circumstances use scotch brite on anything that you want shiney. It will ruin glass. Crazy how scotch brite will ruin glass but steel wool does not.
This is covered like crazy in the appearance forums.
For my windows I used 000 stainless steel wool. I keep a few packages in the garage for all of my chrome and glass needs. It does not, and will not harm glass. Keep it away from painted surfaces though. Keeps the glass super clean, and water actually rolls right off after the window is clean. Works like a champ.
Do not under any circumstances use scotch brite on anything that you want shiney. It will ruin glass. Crazy how scotch brite will ruin glass but steel wool does not.
This is covered like crazy in the appearance forums.
I second that, but I use 0000 steel wool..........it will get anything off of glass that is possible to come off. learned about it when I worked in a body shop in highschool to remove over-spray....been using it ever since. ONLY USE ON GLASS!!! very important!............................
I swear by the buffer and the polishing compounds from griot's garage. Not cheap, but I have been using the buffer for years on my mustangs. It is very easy, and keeps my factory original 1990 and 1992 paint looking great. I had no experience with a buffer before I bought this, and never "burnt through" my paint. It is an orbital buffer, and not only does it spin, but it also has a counterwieght in it that it kind of wobbles as well, so it doesn't give you swirl marks. Well worth the money. Machine polish 3 (the least abrasive polish would probably get rid of the spots, but you could step up to #2, then back down to #3, then use the wax. The following link is a kit that has everything that you need. They also have a glass polish that I have used and it works well with the buffer. Bottom line is, if you hand polish an excursion, your arm will fall off by the time you get one side of the truck polished, much less waxed afterwards, this speeds up the time tremendously.
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