6.0 Coolant
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Southeastern CT
6.0 Coolant
Hey all... I know the 6.0's puke coolant from the bad designed overflow tank when pulling a haevy load and when the tank is filled to much. But I am wondering.. what is actually the correct level of coolant then? I run my tank to where there is just a small amount of coolant showing, but it still seems to puke when towing hard. I really notice it when pulling my 39' 5th wheel toy hauler which is 17K loaded.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
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From: Las Vegas
You may have another issue if it does it all the time, although I'll let more experienced guys on here tackle that issue.
The minimuml level on the de gas bottle is now the maximum level.
Hope this helps.
The minimuml level on the de gas bottle is now the maximum level.
Hope this helps.
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Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 341
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From: Statesvegas, NC
You may have a simple overflow problem but you should have the truck checked for some other more severe and yet fairly common issues. 1st is a ruptured or failing EGR cooler. Hot exhaust gasses created by yor towing can super-heat the coolant in the EGR causing it to vaporize. Repeating this process over time will lead to failure of the silver solder inside the EGR and this will lead to coolant entering combustion. 2nd is the whole warped head/compression leak issue caused by improper coolant flow design inherent to the 6.0 and subsequent high temps caused by heavy towing or modifications that advanced timing, added excessive fuel or other mods that increase cylinder pressure. Also, you can have an oil cooler failure which can lead to high coolant temps and subsequent overflow. Hope this helps.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Southeastern CT
Thanks... I already have the EGR disconnected. I removed the EGR and cleaned it, then re-installed it. I think I have a head stud problem again. I think this time I will do the install of good aftermarket head studs myself. The dealer installed I think the original stock ones again last year. Does not look like a bad job to do. Pulling the engine does not look too bad. I have the needed garage and shop to do this in at my house. Be a good late summer or fall project..
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Statesvegas, NC
If its a repeat problem you may have a set of warped heads. FMC tolerance is 2 or 3 1,000ths (I forget the exact #) and my heads were at 6/1,000. Some were off from the manufacturer and others have gotten warped over time. Unfortunately, many times warranty will replace the gaskets and bolts and not remedy the real warpage issue.
Yep, do the studs which can/are torqued to 3X (or more) than stock bolts. You'll be very happy w/ them and good luck if you choose to DIY, or even if someone else does it. Its a great feeling to be real happy once again w/ my 6.0
Yep, do the studs which can/are torqued to 3X (or more) than stock bolts. You'll be very happy w/ them and good luck if you choose to DIY, or even if someone else does it. Its a great feeling to be real happy once again w/ my 6.0
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Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 4,196
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From: Arizona
Originally Posted by electrified_cc
Thanks... I already have the EGR disconnected. I removed the EGR and cleaned it, then re-installed it. I think I have a head stud problem again. I think this time I will do the install of good aftermarket head studs myself. The dealer installed I think the original stock ones again last year. Does not look like a bad job to do. Pulling the engine does not look too bad. I have the needed garage and shop to do this in at my house. Be a good late summer or fall project..
Also disconnecting the EGR valve will have no effect on EGR cooler failure and therefore will not stop puking do to and EGR cooler failure. EGR cooler failure is much more common on a stock engine than head gasket failure.
What year is your truck, how many miles, and what mods do you have?
Good luck
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Southeastern CT
Blackhat.. I do not have alot of mods. Only have the tow mode of a superchips tuner installed, 4" freeflow open exhaust and a K&N air induction ( yes I know go back to the stock air induction, been looking on e-bay for one), gauge package. Truck does pulls great. Love how the trans shifts. Any info will help. If anyone thinks it may be the EGR cooler, how do you bypass it?
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Postmaster
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Arizona
electrified_cc,
Without properly pressure testing everything, it is hard to determine if it is headgaskets, EGR cooler leaking or a bad oil cooler. Tech is going to need to run diagnostics to determine the exact problem. Once it is fixed, is just a matter of installing and EGR cooler exhaust up-pipe delete and capping off the back of the EGR cooler and closing the EGR valve. The other way to do it is when the engine is torn down you can install a bypass pipe in place of the EGR cooler but they are a little spendy, but can be purchased from Matt at LIPD.
www.lidiesel.com
Without properly pressure testing everything, it is hard to determine if it is headgaskets, EGR cooler leaking or a bad oil cooler. Tech is going to need to run diagnostics to determine the exact problem. Once it is fixed, is just a matter of installing and EGR cooler exhaust up-pipe delete and capping off the back of the EGR cooler and closing the EGR valve. The other way to do it is when the engine is torn down you can install a bypass pipe in place of the EGR cooler but they are a little spendy, but can be purchased from Matt at LIPD.
www.lidiesel.com
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Southeastern CT
Black.. do you test the cooling system like you test any other gasser cooling system? Aslo I am considering switching to synthetic oil, a 7.3 I had 2 trucks ago, (a 2000 F-450) had some issues and was told by International do not use synthetic oil till after 100K miles cause of the copper based head gaskets. It caused the oil to foam. Ford bought the truck back at 32K miles.
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Joined: Dec 2003
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From: Arizona
Originally Posted by electrified_cc
Black.. do you test the cooling system like you test any other gasser cooling system? Aslo I am considering switching to synthetic oil, a 7.3 I had 2 trucks ago, (a 2000 F-450) had some issues and was told by International do not use synthetic oil till after 100K miles cause of the copper based head gaskets. It caused the oil to foam. Ford bought the truck back at 32K miles.
You are good to go with synthetic oil in the 6.0 at anytime you choose. The old foaming oil problem in the early 7.3 is long a thing of the past.
Look in the 6.0 Tech folder at the top of the 6.0 forum and you can download the 6.0 Bible, which shows the components and locations etc of everything on the engine.
Good luck