Yes. The cylinders, crank journals, and lifters are all machined and honed. The heads are machined. The cam and crank is machined to a precise tolerance. The machine used to do the machining also sprays coolants to keep the machine tool cool, preventing premature wear and possibly going out of tolerance.

They don't. The coolants used in the machining process take most but not all of the shavings away.

Nope. The end of the line someone takes the block off the line and blows it off with an air hose.

 

SirHailstone, thanks for the clarification.

since the cnc cutting heads are sprayed w/ cutting oil/coolant during machining, i suspect that any compressed air shavings removal will have a hard time getting all the shavings in the nooks and crannies as the cutting oil/coolant will slightly "stick" them to the surface.

i think this stickyness would exist rather the oil/coolant was still wet or allowed to first dry as the drying process would leave a "film" that slightly glues the shavings to the block.

i also assume that its not a robot doing the air wash thus subject to inconsistencies.

this is very interesting. i would have thought a rinse immersion. or even a double dip like one washes dishes.

i suppose the less porous nature of CGI will lessen this prob w/ the next gen blocks.

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yes, i cut the filter open also.

saw a few bits of the aforementioned metal pieces on the filter element. Kinda hard to tell how much (if any) sand particles are on the filter element as the filter element is sandy-brown in color.

did not let the element dry out, nor did i spread it out as some have done.

earlier posts in other threads mentioned a grey paste present. I had none of this.

my filter had about 8k on it (put it in the truck when the truck had 2k on it).

based upon what i saw in my filter it could have gone much much longer before getting completely clogged (if ever).

i will change the next filter after an additional 10k and, based upon its condition, will prob let filter #3 go for 20k+ mi. before changing.

seems, besides saving wear on the water pump, a benefit i see would be avoiding oil cooler clogging.. but i am not sure my motor has enough stuff floating around to do this.

as i am not seeing casting sluff in my filter (i think) there must be some variances to how the blocks are cured/cleaned.

i am much more interested in knowing the particulars of manufacture for its effect on the oil side of things rather than the coolant side.
just how much metal/sand byproduct of manufacturing is floating around the oil system prior to (if ever) being caught by the filter?

 

Coolant side... oil side.... it is all important!!!

Filter the coolant side (which you are) and change your oil frequently and you'll be fine. This is why many change their first one or two oil changes very early... some do it at 1,000 miles, I did mine at 3,000 miles (first 2). I now change every 5,000 miles with a Racor oil filter. I also use a by-pass oil filter (made by Racor) as some do... and this is just added piece of mind.

Filter your coolant, change your oil, change your air filter and you'll be fine.

 

After reading all the information about coolant filters on FTE it convinced me to purchase one. It is scheduled to come in today and hopefully I can get it installed tonight. I purchased the one from dieselsite also.

 

you will not be disappointed...and it's easy to install. to make things easy just remove some coolant from the system to avoid spilling when you tap into the lines. <O</O