With the proper custom touch, reclearanced internally the 435 can be speed shifted plus a joy to drive in daily use. Granted a stupid wide ratio 3 speed, compound 1st is useless. Aluminum top sucks vs T-18/19's iron top.

For a keeper truck look into a TKO 5 speed with 5th as OD in two different ratios plus rated at 500 and 600 ft/lbs torque.

Weight and money not an issue go for a Clark 5 speed, not in my truck. The Stooge NV 4500 can be "Afro Engineered" to make fit, they had failure problems even new from Stooge. Yeah just what I want to run, not.

 

Yeah it's always looked like a sore spot to me. :/
My pin and it's locating groove are in top shape so far. :)

To improve the "feel" of my T18 I've added washer-like parts to compress the spring farther and keep it centered and to isolate the spring's ends from rubbing on anything. Also i cut a groove around the gear shift lever to accept a retainer ring to help with all that.

That might not have anything to do with the feel you're talking about tho? :)

Seems like I added a spring inside the original spring too, one that "coils" the opposite direction of course. :)

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When working in the machine shop back in the late 70's I made myself a gear shift lever extension and re-bent the gear shift lever (using a cutting torch as a rosebud) so there is just enough room for my hand and **** to clear the steering wheel while shifting into 1st. Also the **** is just forward enough so my elbow almost touches the seat back when shifting into 2nd.

http://www.panix.com/~alvinj/file12/gearshift.jpg
(shown in 1st gear)

You can see where the two come together at the bottom edge of the picture because the lever's edge was chamfered and so is the extension to match.

The gear shift lever has a angled shoulder around the threaded part and I copied that -in reverse- inside the extension. :)

I'm a weird one... much shorter people than me, put the seat farther back ...usually all the way back. :/
i don't like "reaching" for the steering wheel is all. YMMV

Having set up a few dune buggies "for feel" has made me notice that ergonomic crap? ;)

Alvin in AZ

 

Looks like it's a T18. Alvin makes a good point about using a taller gear in the rear to achieve the same goal as an od. Does anyone have the gear ratios for the T18, did they all have the granny 1st? Seems 1st would have to be changed out to something more useful, this is just a street truck, no towing or crawling, that way 4th could be the direct 1:1 and if you droped the rear to a highway friendly 2.73is you'd be all set.

 

Yea! :) I finally said something worth-while on the internet? :)

Granny-type 1st, yes.
1st and reverse varied and so did the 2nd and 3rd looks like... at least according my research on the subject.
Ford does that you know. ;)

2.73 with what tire size tho? :/
3.25 is plenty with 235/85-16's.

If you don't go crazy you can easily skip 1st gear and make an "easy on you" 3 speed.

Sounds like you'd be better off with a T19 they have taller ist and reverse.

Alvin in AZ

 

Yeah, gonna have to kick this around a little, thanks to all for the replies.

 

I have had a 76 2WD F150 that came with the T-18 which worked smooth and flawless for 170,000+ miles (the tranny is still good, sitting my garage), a 1978 Bronco with an NP435 (never a problem), and currently running a 1976 F150 4X4 with an NP435.
The 76 4X4 tranny is in the shop for repair. Too much vibration and metal filings on the magnetic plug, so I took it out. This tranny was run by various agencies unknown to me before I got the truck, so I can't say what abuse it endured. But I did have the aforementioned Bronco for 15 years, and that NP435 never gave me any trouble.

 

I agree that the np435's are great, I've had 2, each in bronco's that worked great, never a problem speed shifted like they were made for it, now I'm just looking for something more street friendly, thanks, matt.

 

How do you modify the NP435 so it shifts smoother, and quicker, so you can slam gears better. That's definetely not a tranny you can shift fast and expect it to work. It would be awesome if it was though. So I would love to try this out...I got a couple layin' around

 

leadhead; first off if you'll look into my past posts about 435's you may find what I have found what works for me. A.D.D. it's been that long ago.

Off the top of my head as i'm into C-6 tranny trucks the last 8 years what I did to 435 boxes for 30 years is below.

First off the aluminum cover is a POS which wears and becomes a sloppy mystery shifter over time and mileage with loose side pins, replace with new then later seal top and retainer from dirt wear and water. Best to tap and installed allen bolts for pins with ends machined down with lock nuts, allen pins are hard as hell.
Shifter top, check and replace the interlock plungers if needed between the interlock ***** as factory are too short allowing 2nd to R engagement at the same time hence "locked up box". This can be corrected if on the road by removing shifter then relocating shifter gates to neutral position, reinstall shifter and go. Done many times until pissed off and corrected.
The newer shift lever has the shift ball suspended around "O" rings to allow for less cab noise and shifter vibration but allows for less synchro feel and action, again a "new" POS idea that sucks.(JMO).
Remove "O" rings, clean and epoxy the ball extension to the shift lever after it has been centered plus reinstall factory roll pin.
On a box with high mileage (500K plus) even with the replacement thrust washers the cluster gear has end clearance, make bronze spaceres to the correct end clearance.
If saving old internal parts like synchro rings spend app 4 hours with a Dremel and dress every tooth maintaining factory angle but smoothing worn and chipped areas, smooth and polish only.
Sand drums with 220 paper, aluminum synchros last so replacement isn't needed nor cheap I have found even on a high mileage box.
Take the #308L bearing with 7 ***** and chit can it, replace with a 11 ball this will help handle the axial thrust better from the input bearing, bad bearing combo of taper pushing against ball.
Set input shaft to just a detectable end clearance, too tight and the internal parts will expand more than the case hence hard shifting, thrust bearing preload and failure due to heat, too loose then ya got a "milk truck" sloppy box. The taper bearing will lift from the cup causing vibration and noise problems.
With this set check with feller gauges, note two one on each side and check your synchro clearance. I recall it was .055" don't quote me on this. Lower the mininum spec by again 10%, this allows for a sooner applied synchro action and wear before drive dog engagement hence smooth crunch free speed shifting.
All the above with a new clutch and pressure plate with no reman crap.
If a long arm check the arm travel for loose linkage and equal, better if custom reamed and repinned plus adding interchangeable weights.
Even with this rework applied on a 4.10 geared 414 motored F250 it would eat 435 boxes if driven aggressively within 500 miles.
Good box yes but not a great bullet proof box, hell it's only rated 327 ft/lbs,
speed shifting is way above that rating.
I ran 80/90wt gear oil adding 30-40% Honda Motorcycle Racing transmission oil which is a high shear gearbox oil which is app 25wt.
This will thin down 80/90wt gear oil without the loss of oil shear strength plus the added protection reducing gear face galling.
This combo must be working as old truck passed 922K two years ago with new owner and still working hard.
All the above are what has worked for me, your on your own on what you do and use.

 

hey, I think I can make something outa that tho!....thanxs for little pointers

 

I have a 76 4x4 f150 with the NP435 and the huge gaps between gears drive me crazy. Would the t-19 work well in my truck? Would it bolt in the same way? Would it handle torque and towing well?

 

A T-19 would work great depending on which 1st gear ratio you used, axle ratio, tire diameter, weight of trailer towed, motor build and on the flat or in the mountains.

Your NP435 I would guess would have 6.69:1 first.

You can have a T-19 with 4.02, 2.4, 1.4, 1.0 or 5.1, 3.0, 1.8, 1.0
or with a 6.32:1 1st as used in 460 4x4's for a few years.

 

I never had a problem with my NP435 that was behind my Solid roller cam 428. 3.50 gears and 35" tall tires with a posi. I beat that thing to hell and back. I still shifted like the day it was new. I'm not trying to argue. I'm just telling my experience with the one I had.
And if you think I'm kidding, well here you go~

http://www.geocities.com/spookytruck/trucks.html