Rear end issue
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Rear end issue
Hi again guys, along with my other question, i was changing the rear end oil today Ford 9 3.L50 Gears, if that makes a difference, and i found the plug on the right side, if your looking at the front, is this the fill plug, if so, do i fill it up till it almost overflows, and also where is the drain plug, or how do yall do it, since i cant find a drain plug, i let the bottom 9/16 bolt out, not the nut, but right after the yoke goes in, i let the bolt out, and nothing came out, was something suppose to come out, if its full? thanks again guys, and i need fast re post for my truck is up on jackstands and i need it this afternoon, "go to the junkyard as i posted in my other question, "see below"
Taylor
Taylor
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No drain plug:
-pull axle, pick up truck and tilt to that side. Shake to remove last drops...
-use suction device through fill hole
-loosen nuts holding to housing and crack it loose. Wait days for an incomplete drain, and hope the gasket seals again.
-pull the entire unit and clean it out with suction and rags
On refill, yes, fill till it's at that hole.
-pull axle, pick up truck and tilt to that side. Shake to remove last drops...
-use suction device through fill hole
-loosen nuts holding to housing and crack it loose. Wait days for an incomplete drain, and hope the gasket seals again.
-pull the entire unit and clean it out with suction and rags
On refill, yes, fill till it's at that hole.
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Originally Posted by 85e150six4mtod
No drain plug:
-pull axle, pick up truck and tilt to that side. Shake to remove last drops...
-use suction device through fill hole
-loosen nuts holding to housing and crack it loose. Wait days for an incomplete drain, and hope the gasket seals again.
-pull the entire unit and clean it out with suction and rags
On refill, yes, fill till it's at that hole.
-pull axle, pick up truck and tilt to that side. Shake to remove last drops...
-use suction device through fill hole
-loosen nuts holding to housing and crack it loose. Wait days for an incomplete drain, and hope the gasket seals again.
-pull the entire unit and clean it out with suction and rags
On refill, yes, fill till it's at that hole.
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From: Virginia
It's probably a blind hole and that's why the fluid won't come out.
The fastest way for you to change the oil is to get one of those suction tools at the store and suck it out. You can then clean it up and use it to suck the oil out of the new oil container and use it to put the new oil back in the side hole. On level ground, fill it till it runs out the hole.
The fastest way for you to change the oil is to get one of those suction tools at the store and suck it out. You can then clean it up and use it to suck the oil out of the new oil container and use it to put the new oil back in the side hole. On level ground, fill it till it runs out the hole.
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
It's probably a blind hole and that's why the fluid won't come out.
The fastest way for you to change the oil is to get one of those suction tools at the store and suck it out. You can then clean it up and use it to suck the oil out of the new oil container and use it to put the new oil back in the side hole. On level ground, fill it till it runs out the hole.
The fastest way for you to change the oil is to get one of those suction tools at the store and suck it out. You can then clean it up and use it to suck the oil out of the new oil container and use it to put the new oil back in the side hole. On level ground, fill it till it runs out the hole.
Taylor
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From: Kalispell, MT
I'd only clean it if you find lots of grit in the sump. And then, only if you pull the carrier chunk off so you can actually get to the bottom of the housing and get the solvents back out. You won't be able to do that with a suction gun.
Also, I'd stick with the recommended 80w90 lube AND be sure to include the additive slip-plate for your limited slip clutches. The other lube may interfer with your clutch pack operation. The 9" will handle hay bales easily as it stands. Other components will fail first.
Also, I'd stick with the recommended 80w90 lube AND be sure to include the additive slip-plate for your limited slip clutches. The other lube may interfer with your clutch pack operation. The 9" will handle hay bales easily as it stands. Other components will fail first.
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Originally Posted by mtflat
I'd only clean it if you find lots of grit in the sump. And then, only if you pull the carrier chunk off so you can actually get to the bottom of the housing and get the solvents back out. You won't be able to do that with a suction gun.
Also, I'd stick with the recommended 80w90 lube AND be sure to include the additive slip-plate for your limited slip clutches. The other lube may interfer with your clutch pack operation. The 9" will handle hay bales easily as it stands. Other components will fail first.
Also, I'd stick with the recommended 80w90 lube AND be sure to include the additive slip-plate for your limited slip clutches. The other lube may interfer with your clutch pack operation. The 9" will handle hay bales easily as it stands. Other components will fail first.
Thanks
Taylor
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Brett Foote
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From: Kalispell, MT
Taylor, the 9" rear end is just about bullet-proof. It's the best differential Ford ever made and will handle 1000 lb round bales. (I live in farming/horse country myself) You might have trouble getting enough traction at the wheels, but you won't have differential trouble. I honestly believe you'll break u-joints or burn up your clutch before you hurt the rear end.
(however I have stripped the axle splines and side gears twice on that same rear end, but that had nothing to do with fluid viscosity - my 86 has 315,000 miles on it)
I don't suppose the 85w140 will hurt anything, it just isn't necessary. It would help most with high-speed long distance driving. The additive you need to add to a limited slip diff (9 3L50) is called a "friction modifier" and the Ford part number is C8AZ-19B546-A You should be able to get the equivalent at NAPA. Add 4 ounces in your diff fluid. It allows the disks to slip properly as it engages.
btw, the parking brake problem is probably due to rusted cables. Put new cables on it and you should be back in business.
ltd slip works as an open carrier most of the time until one wheel slips and the clutch pack distributes power to both wheels. You won't see it until you need it - provided your clutch pack isn't worn out. They do need to be replaced from time to time.
(however I have stripped the axle splines and side gears twice on that same rear end, but that had nothing to do with fluid viscosity - my 86 has 315,000 miles on it)
I don't suppose the 85w140 will hurt anything, it just isn't necessary. It would help most with high-speed long distance driving. The additive you need to add to a limited slip diff (9 3L50) is called a "friction modifier" and the Ford part number is C8AZ-19B546-A You should be able to get the equivalent at NAPA. Add 4 ounces in your diff fluid. It allows the disks to slip properly as it engages.
btw, the parking brake problem is probably due to rusted cables. Put new cables on it and you should be back in business.
ltd slip works as an open carrier most of the time until one wheel slips and the clutch pack distributes power to both wheels. You won't see it until you need it - provided your clutch pack isn't worn out. They do need to be replaced from time to time.
Last edited by mtflat; Jun 23, 2007 at 06:14 PM.
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Originally Posted by mtflat
Taylor, the 9" rear end is just about bullet-proof. It's the best differential Ford ever made and will handle 1000 lb round bales. (I live in farming/horse country myself) You might have trouble getting enough traction at the wheels, but you won't have differential trouble. I honestly believe you'll break u-joints or burn up your clutch before you hurt the rear end.
(however I have stripped the axle splines and side gears twice on that same rear end, but that had nothing to do with fluid viscosity - my 86 has 315,000 miles on it)
I don't suppose the 85w140 will hurt anything, it just isn't necessary. It would help most with high-speed long distance driving. The additive you need to add to a limited slip diff (9 3L50) is called a "friction modifier" and the Ford part number is C8AZ-19B546-A You should be able to get the equivalent at NAPA. Add 4 ounces in your diff fluid. It allows the disks to slip properly as it engages.
btw, the parking brake problem is probably due to rusted cables. Put new cables on it and you should be back in business.
ltd slip works as an open carrier most of the time until one wheel slips and the clutch pack distributes power to both wheels. You won't see it until you need it - provided your clutch pack isn't worn out. They do need to be replaced from time to time.
(however I have stripped the axle splines and side gears twice on that same rear end, but that had nothing to do with fluid viscosity - my 86 has 315,000 miles on it)
I don't suppose the 85w140 will hurt anything, it just isn't necessary. It would help most with high-speed long distance driving. The additive you need to add to a limited slip diff (9 3L50) is called a "friction modifier" and the Ford part number is C8AZ-19B546-A You should be able to get the equivalent at NAPA. Add 4 ounces in your diff fluid. It allows the disks to slip properly as it engages.
btw, the parking brake problem is probably due to rusted cables. Put new cables on it and you should be back in business.
ltd slip works as an open carrier most of the time until one wheel slips and the clutch pack distributes power to both wheels. You won't see it until you need it - provided your clutch pack isn't worn out. They do need to be replaced from time to time.
Taylor
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Joined: Oct 1999
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From: Kalispell, MT
Ignore what I said about traction - I was thinking about pulling them around a feedlot with the truck. Didn't even think of trailering them - brain dead for a moment - Around here they haul multiples with semi's.
I still think you'll be ok. Make sure to have working trailer brakes on the gooseneck. The half-ton is on the small side for loads like that, but if you take it easy........
I still think you'll be ok. Make sure to have working trailer brakes on the gooseneck. The half-ton is on the small side for loads like that, but if you take it easy........
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From: Virginia
i know the 67 lim slip, you have to engage the park brake slightly, is it neccesary for the 9's,
Sounds like you are applying the parking brake to put drag on the wheel that is spinning, thus sending more torque to the wheel that is not. This has nothing to do with a limited slip rearend.
Put any type of gear oil you want in there, just so it has some. I can't believe sometimes the advertising hype that goes along with some of these oils.
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Originally Posted by mtflat
Ignore what I said about traction - I was thinking about pulling them around a feedlot with the truck. Didn't even think of trailering them - brain dead for a moment - Around here they haul multiples with semi's.
I still think you'll be ok. Make sure to have working trailer brakes on the gooseneck. The half-ton is on the small side for loads like that, but if you take it easy........
I still think you'll be ok. Make sure to have working trailer brakes on the gooseneck. The half-ton is on the small side for loads like that, but if you take it easy........
Thanks guys, and ill keep you posted, going to get the sunction tool at Auterzone tommorow after church, then maybe NAPA
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Originally Posted by Franklin2
I don't know what you are talking about here. The 1967 would have the same 9 inch rear as the one you have now if it was a 1/2 ton pickup, and regardless, I have never heard of any type of limited slip for any type rearend needing the parking brake cable pulled to activate it.
Sounds like you are applying the parking brake to put drag on the wheel that is spinning, thus sending more torque to the wheel that is not. This has nothing to do with a limited slip rearend.
Put any type of gear oil you want in there, just so it has some. I can't believe sometimes the advertising hype that goes along with some of these oils.
Sounds like you are applying the parking brake to put drag on the wheel that is spinning, thus sending more torque to the wheel that is not. This has nothing to do with a limited slip rearend.
Put any type of gear oil you want in there, just so it has some. I can't believe sometimes the advertising hype that goes along with some of these oils.
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ok guys, its been a long time since i said tommorow after church, but i just got into town today, and i picked up the suction tool at AutoZone and they had the Limited Slip/Posi Trac fluid their, so i bought that, "20 Miles to Napa" and didnt want to waste that gas going to the "BIG" Town, so do i put all of it in their, or just some of it, OR How many ounces of it are you suppose to put into it, b/c my :Barn/shop: is a long walk away so i wont be going their til morning, so how much goes in for a 9 inch?