77 f150
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77 f150
my neighbor has a 79 f150 4x4 flatbed with a 351 w the only problem with it is it runs for a while then shuts off he said it could be the distributor what do you guys think would it be worth buying for a weekend toy?
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From: MB, Canada
I would buy it! The problem sounds minor, It could be the starter solenoid. My dads old truck would run for a while, then shut down. and after a while you could start it again. I think he replaced it and the truck was fine after that.
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by 300i6
my neighbor has a 79 f150 4x4 flatbed with a 351 w the only problem with it is it runs for a while then shuts off he said it could be the distributor what do you guys think would it be worth buying for a weekend toy?
Look at the module where the wires feed out, there is a plastic colored square there. If it's the dreaded RED module used only in CA, that module was a POS from day one. Replace it and the stator (pickup coil) inside the dizzy with a Motorcraft module/stator ONLY. The other module used on a few CA vehicles has a BLUE plastic square. They are 1000% more reliable than the red POS, but they fail too. Here again, use only the Motorcraft module. The non Motorcraft aftermarket types are made in China.
Last edited by NumberDummy; Jun 19, 2007 at 11:06 PM.
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From: MB, Canada
Originally Posted by khadma
Buy it, these trucks are simple enough to work on and are getting harder to find.
I like the body style on these also.
I like the body style on these also.
Im not much interested in the new trucks...
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Originally Posted by dirtjumper01
I would buy it! The problem sounds minor, It could be the starter solenoid. My dads old truck would run for a while, then shut down. and after a while you could start it again. I think he replaced it and the truck was fine after that.
The starter solenoid is only for starting the engine (Starting system)
Supplies power to crank th starter and supply 12 volts to the coil.
Then the solenoid is removed from the equation as:
The Ignition system takes over the running of the engine after it is started.
The charging system keeps the battery topped up and to supply power to the ignition.
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From: western montana
it's not a 351w unless someone did a lot of swapping around...probably a 351m.
It's a good truck. I've owned several with the duraspark ignition and they all had the problem this one has and they nearly all had different things wrong- ignition module can be checked at napa etc, wiring can be bad...especially at connections etc. It can take a little figuring out or for about $100 you can plug in a 1 wire hei system...downfall is no automatic retard to help start...good side is it bypassess all the stuff that goes wrong and the hei system is a good one though gm designed. Best alternative is to learn the durapsark system and how to troubleshoot unless looking for a more powerfull system for a performance build.
Like you I am a fan of 75-76 f250.only the ...4x4...highboy!!! yea baby. You can put the '77 grill on the '79...I would...they ruined the front end in '78 imo.
It's a good truck. I've owned several with the duraspark ignition and they all had the problem this one has and they nearly all had different things wrong- ignition module can be checked at napa etc, wiring can be bad...especially at connections etc. It can take a little figuring out or for about $100 you can plug in a 1 wire hei system...downfall is no automatic retard to help start...good side is it bypassess all the stuff that goes wrong and the hei system is a good one though gm designed. Best alternative is to learn the durapsark system and how to troubleshoot unless looking for a more powerfull system for a performance build.
Like you I am a fan of 75-76 f250.only the ...4x4...highboy!!! yea baby. You can put the '77 grill on the '79...I would...they ruined the front end in '78 imo.
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Cheap HEI ??
Sounds like a good weekend hotrod truck!
$100 for an HEI?
Please note that our DUI's are:
1) Custom curved on a distributor machine based on your engine specs.
2) Not a cheap overseas import.
3) We have excellent tech support-each Distributor is issued an individual I.D. Number, so that if you change cams, pistons, etc., or want to put the DUI distributor in another motor in the future, you can call us with your ID number, have us pull your file, and then discuss whether or not you need to change your advance curve.
4) You talk to one of our employees-in Memphis, TN-not someone in another country. We are a family business that believes in the performance and racing industry
Same is true with our Durasparks.
www.PerformanceDistributors.com
$100 for an HEI?
Please note that our DUI's are:
1) Custom curved on a distributor machine based on your engine specs.
2) Not a cheap overseas import.
3) We have excellent tech support-each Distributor is issued an individual I.D. Number, so that if you change cams, pistons, etc., or want to put the DUI distributor in another motor in the future, you can call us with your ID number, have us pull your file, and then discuss whether or not you need to change your advance curve.
4) You talk to one of our employees-in Memphis, TN-not someone in another country. We are a family business that believes in the performance and racing industry
Same is true with our Durasparks.
www.PerformanceDistributors.com
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From: Morenci, AZ
Dennis, the solenoid is a possible culprit - My old 77 gave me electrical fits, including dropping the ignition. The auto shop teacher at the high school suggested that the solenoid/relay may have developed an intermittent open circuit in it (apparently a common "well used" Ford truck issue) - needless to say, he was right.
The way it was explained to me was that the alternator alone didn't have enough power at idle to keep the ignition running without a constant storage source (battery) - being a Duraspark, there wasn't an inherent stiffening source (condenser) like a points system. When the poor connection in the solenoid would open, the ignition was being forced to survive on the alternator alone, and it didn't quite cut it.
And if you look at it from a financial perspective, it's $10 or $12 to replace a part that should get replaced on a comprehensive PM anyway - simple place to start.
The way it was explained to me was that the alternator alone didn't have enough power at idle to keep the ignition running without a constant storage source (battery) - being a Duraspark, there wasn't an inherent stiffening source (condenser) like a points system. When the poor connection in the solenoid would open, the ignition was being forced to survive on the alternator alone, and it didn't quite cut it.
And if you look at it from a financial perspective, it's $10 or $12 to replace a part that should get replaced on a comprehensive PM anyway - simple place to start.
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I still don't see how the basic operation of a switch used to crank a starter has to do with the ignition system.
Please explain
The power from the battery/alternator and power to ignition are all connected together on the same lug of the starter relay (solenoid)
Please explain
The power from the battery/alternator and power to ignition are all connected together on the same lug of the starter relay (solenoid)
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From: Collierville
Well - I would always keep a solenoid in the glove box on a truck that old. Not sure why it would make it stop running but sometimes the closed cresent on the solenoid dosen't work especally late at night after a movie so it isn't money wasted. Prob the ignition module though.
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From: Morenci, AZ
On my 77, the coil pulled from the "I" terminal on the solenoid - meaning loss of ignition when the circuit opened.
No clue if it's unique to certain models, but my 77 (Highboy, 460) was wired like that, and my 75 (F100 360) isn't.
I really don't remember if the 77½ (Lowboy, 351M) was like that or not.
No clue if it's unique to certain models, but my 77 (Highboy, 460) was wired like that, and my 75 (F100 360) isn't.
I really don't remember if the 77½ (Lowboy, 351M) was like that or not.
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