BeNt ReArEnD~~~~~

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Jun 19, 2007 | 12:59 AM

jdgreen72

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From: woodward/okmulgee, ok

BeNt ReArEnD~~~~~

anybody ever seen a bent 9"? I wish i could post some pics, it's eatin' tires fast, just on the inside, and you can see the tires leaning in. no bearing noise, clean fluid, no leaks, (a slight pinion seep, but that's it) it's startin to feel dangerous too. (hydroplanes, no matter what tire condition) no vibe tho. I can't put any money in it for about a month though, gotta finish college.

Jun 19, 2007 | 02:27 AM

lucky no. 7

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From: conway arkansas

yea in the past years when we'd narrow up a rearend for somebody sometimes the heat from the weldin on the ends will warp em, really not all that noticeable until you try to put the axles in it, the damn things dont want to go for nothin, but that was only bent less than 1/8th inch, plus that was tryin to do it with a jig from alston's chassis works that only works with a narrower than a truck rearend so it didnt do alot of good,

Jun 19, 2007 | 09:56 AM

Freightrain

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Joined: Jan 2003

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From: Ohio

Ya, my '69 has a tweak to it. Eats up the inside of tires a bit faster and the axles are hard to get in/out. The problem was 18 yrs ago I had ladderbars welded on by a shop and they didnt have anything to do it right(Neither did I then). Some day I'll get ambitious and straighten it out. It only sees maybe 500 miles a year so tires last a long time.

Jun 19, 2007 | 11:17 AM

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

Remove, place on a stand then gut the 3rd member, can be done with just axles removed but better for flushing if pumpkin is removed.
With two straight edges each at least 3' long placed across
the end flanges locate the long side, heat that area of the tube between the hump and flange with a rosebud torch and let cool, it will shrink up.
This is a heat and check affair for how much shrinkage you gain then correct
your amount of heat applied.
I had 5/16" toe in on a used 9" from a wrecked car that had the motor/trans pushed back bending the housing.
Brush out the inside then solvent flush, paint and assemble, it's not rocket
science.
You'll be surprised how easy it is to correct, this is how shops straighted 'em.

Jun 19, 2007 | 11:22 AM

jdgreen72

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From: woodward/okmulgee, ok

sounds like you guys really know what you're talkin' about. most guys say replace it, and one even said to drive it up on a large I beam and chain it down, then jack up in the middle until it's straight. make sense? I like beemernuts idea best. hey, does alston's chassis works got a website?

Jun 19, 2007 | 02:50 PM

"Beemer Nut"

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From: "Islander"

Jack it in the middle and possibly distort the pumkin housing, not a good idea, well maybe a fast cheap fix done by a insurance paid repair.
Heat and shrink can be done with the member still in the vehicle.

Jun 20, 2007 | 07:49 AM

TigerDan

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From: The hills of No. Calif.

I knew a guy who relocated the sping perches on his 9" and when he turned the axles he feel more resistance from the binding as the axle tubes had warped from the welding. He simply ran a couple of beads of weld on the opposite sides of the axle tubes to try to pull them back into line, running a bead and then turning the axle after it had cooled to feel the resistance in the axle. It worked for him, though probably not the most elegant or precise solution. I like Carl's method much better. Cleaner, more precise and no messy extra welds. The point being that it can indeed be fixed, no need to replace the hole rearend.