Cheap 2" Lift
Posting Guru
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 2,175
Likes: 0
From: Kent WA
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
No blocks on the front axle in several states around here, not sure if it is everywhere or not.
I do know if you go to a lot of serious off road sites, the no blocks on the front axle seems to be an everwhere thing.
I have also never heard anyone say that was a good idea or acceptable anywhere I have been, which is a lot of places.
Adding one leaf to the front springs will make the front spring about flat.
You may find the upper bushing in the front spring front hanger is worn out or missing.
Replacing that hanger (both sides) raised the front of my truck about 1.5".
New ones are in the mid 20 dollar range each at Ford.
Adding an extra leaf will also make the ride much harder hitting the bumps.
The front springs are special the way the leaves are tapered.
Also the length means you need to use front spring leaves.
I have 4 leaves on my front springs, the front drive shaft almost hits the transfer case skid plate, you need to check for clearance when you add leaves.
Yes it rides like a road wagon, but the snow plow don't even drop the front an inch when it is on the truck.
Also there will be some wedges between the spring and the axle, be careful of which one was where and which way they were turned.
The wedges set the pinion angle.
The 4" blocks go between the springs and axle on the back.
That block is one of the big differences between an F250 and an F350.
Last minute thoughts on this, if it were legal and safe to just add blocks between the axle and the springs, why are there so many companies building lift kits and charging such high prices for them?
Several of the lift kits I have seen run taller blocks on the rear axle.
But the front axle is much more complicated, even on the leaf spring trucks.
The front axle is all about geometery, mess the geometery up and you now have a death trap, in our case the death trap weighs almost 4 tons.
I do know if you go to a lot of serious off road sites, the no blocks on the front axle seems to be an everwhere thing.
I have also never heard anyone say that was a good idea or acceptable anywhere I have been, which is a lot of places.
Adding one leaf to the front springs will make the front spring about flat.
You may find the upper bushing in the front spring front hanger is worn out or missing.
Replacing that hanger (both sides) raised the front of my truck about 1.5".
New ones are in the mid 20 dollar range each at Ford.
Adding an extra leaf will also make the ride much harder hitting the bumps.
The front springs are special the way the leaves are tapered.
Also the length means you need to use front spring leaves.
I have 4 leaves on my front springs, the front drive shaft almost hits the transfer case skid plate, you need to check for clearance when you add leaves.
Yes it rides like a road wagon, but the snow plow don't even drop the front an inch when it is on the truck.
Also there will be some wedges between the spring and the axle, be careful of which one was where and which way they were turned.
The wedges set the pinion angle.
The 4" blocks go between the springs and axle on the back.
That block is one of the big differences between an F250 and an F350.
Last minute thoughts on this, if it were legal and safe to just add blocks between the axle and the springs, why are there so many companies building lift kits and charging such high prices for them?
Several of the lift kits I have seen run taller blocks on the rear axle.
But the front axle is much more complicated, even on the leaf spring trucks.
The front axle is all about geometery, mess the geometery up and you now have a death trap, in our case the death trap weighs almost 4 tons.
You are also correct about extra leaves stiffening your springs. Though using just one tapered bottom leaf from a stock pack shouldn't be too bad - less than a 50% spring rate increase since the bottom leaf is thinner than the top one.....
As for why they sell lift kits for such big bucks, I'd think the answer to that one would be pretty obvious - BECAUSE THEY CAN! (same reason they sell things like The Tornado intake inserts!)
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 4
From: missouri
Originally Posted by Dave Sponaugle
No blocks on the front axle in several states around here, not sure if it is everywhere or not.
I do know if you go to a lot of serious off road sites, the no blocks on the front axle seems to be an everwhere thing.
I have also never heard anyone say that was a good idea or acceptable anywhere I have been, which is a lot of places.
Adding one leaf to the front springs will make the front spring about flat.
You may find the upper bushing in the front spring front hanger is worn out or missing.
Replacing that hanger (both sides) raised the front of my truck about 1.5".
New ones are in the mid 20 dollar range each at Ford.
Adding an extra leaf will also make the ride much harder hitting the bumps.
The front springs are special the way the leaves are tapered.
Also the length means you need to use front spring leaves.
I have 4 leaves on my front springs, the front drive shaft almost hits the transfer case skid plate, you need to check for clearance when you add leaves.
Yes it rides like a road wagon, but the snow plow don't even drop the front an inch when it is on the truck.
Also there will be some wedges between the spring and the axle, be careful of which one was where and which way they were turned.
The wedges set the pinion angle.
The 4" blocks go between the springs and axle on the back.
That block is one of the big differences between an F250 and an F350.
Last minute thoughts on this, if it were legal and safe to just add blocks between the axle and the springs, why are there so many companies building lift kits and charging such high prices for them?
Several of the lift kits I have seen run taller blocks on the rear axle.
But the front axle is much more complicated, even on the leaf spring trucks.
The front axle is all about geometery, mess the geometery up and you now have a death trap, in our case the death trap weighs almost 4 tons.
I do know if you go to a lot of serious off road sites, the no blocks on the front axle seems to be an everwhere thing.
I have also never heard anyone say that was a good idea or acceptable anywhere I have been, which is a lot of places.
Adding one leaf to the front springs will make the front spring about flat.
You may find the upper bushing in the front spring front hanger is worn out or missing.
Replacing that hanger (both sides) raised the front of my truck about 1.5".
New ones are in the mid 20 dollar range each at Ford.
Adding an extra leaf will also make the ride much harder hitting the bumps.
The front springs are special the way the leaves are tapered.
Also the length means you need to use front spring leaves.
I have 4 leaves on my front springs, the front drive shaft almost hits the transfer case skid plate, you need to check for clearance when you add leaves.
Yes it rides like a road wagon, but the snow plow don't even drop the front an inch when it is on the truck.
Also there will be some wedges between the spring and the axle, be careful of which one was where and which way they were turned.
The wedges set the pinion angle.
The 4" blocks go between the springs and axle on the back.
That block is one of the big differences between an F250 and an F350.
Last minute thoughts on this, if it were legal and safe to just add blocks between the axle and the springs, why are there so many companies building lift kits and charging such high prices for them?
Several of the lift kits I have seen run taller blocks on the rear axle.
But the front axle is much more complicated, even on the leaf spring trucks.
The front axle is all about geometery, mess the geometery up and you now have a death trap, in our case the death trap weighs almost 4 tons.
you might check on a f-350 cc 4door 4wd shock and see if there is a diffence in lenght..
of course you can always re weld the shock mounting place (did that on our stock car ) wonder if I could use my racing shocks on my truck
I have 20 or so J/K also back blocks dont know if they fit but a high boy has eyelets on them where the u-bolt run through so they can never kick out
in front shims on my 79 to keep the angle correct I use a wedge from a rear leaf pack over load (had to search through 3 or 4 sets) to find the correct pitch and make sure the I bolt hole is correct size...
If I get a chance thursday I'll take a pic of a NO NO lifted truck I got for free for parts you will die laughing..
now my 79 don't ride no rougher than it did stock same about my dodge (will fit 40's under it) only thing on it is off-roading it gets bumpy
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 549
Likes: 1
From: Mississippi
having had the "interesting" experience of putting blocks on the rear axle of a '70 bronco (4") and finding that hard starts and stops can and will break the alignment pins letting EVERYTHING shift on the axle. it's not a very confidence inspiring event in a bumpy turn. just my thoughts on blocks.
speedrdr
speedrdr
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 4
From: missouri
these are not the best pics but you can see the lift I made drove this truck 2 or 3 years before last motor gave up the ghost no problems with this lift
by friday I'll have my NO NO lift pics for you..
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 4
From: missouri
as promised
NO NO LIFTS PICS
two blocks in the rear
blocks in the fronts and look how the back are leaning out wards
this show how bad of a bind you put the steering arms in when not properly lifted ... just think this
truck was drove daily before it was gave to me for a parts truck
two blocks in the rear
blocks in the fronts and look how the back are leaning out wards
this show how bad of a bind you put the steering arms in when not properly lifted ... just think this
truck was drove daily before it was gave to me for a parts truck
Last edited by 460429_freak; Jul 2, 2007 at 11:42 AM.
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