did you open up the old fuel filter to see if there was a problem there?

what type of filter are you using, just the stock one at the carb or another?

 

Sure did...it was clear and free flowing, but I put on a new one anyway just in case. It's a stock filter at the carb.

 

I know you already replaced the ignition module, but I have seen them brand new yet faulty. The next time it happens, try taking a wet rag and putting on the module to cool it down and see if that does anything. Just a guess.

 

Well, here's the latest, and a new problem! (...and I'm running out of hope here, getting desperate)

Since the pick up module in the distributor has been suspect for some time now, I went ahead and replaced my distributor. -Made it a few miles, and @#!%*! I was back on the side of the road...again!!
So, at this point, frustrated and sweating buckets in the middle of Charlotte rush hour traffic, I decide to try danlee's suggestion (Sticky needle valve).
I pop the top of the carb, and I'm shocked to find my float bowl almost completely empty!!!! (wait for the rest of the story to get your hopes up about the solution) I'm thinking it could be fuel pump, filter or a sticky needle valve. I manually move the valve in its seat to see if it's stuck. (It was not! It had smooth movement with no resistance) I then disconnect the fuel line at the filter to see If I have fuel getting to the carb (little pressure, but I did) I know that my filter is brand new. So I think it's the fuel pump at this point.
I leave my truck to get some parts. Several hours later, much cooler outside, I return to my truck and pop the top of the carb again. This time I crank the engine over to see if the pump will get some gas to the float bowl. Sure enough, gas is flowing freely and bowl is filled. Engine starts up. and I'm able to drive it all the way back to my machine shop to replace the fuel pump. I finally finish the repair, and then I take my old needle-valve/seat (that I know to be good) and replace it, just to be sure it's not a sticky needle valve problem. I start it up and attempt to make it back to my house.
Engine sounded great as usual, but I noticed another problem that I'd also been having intermittently(perhaps related), my ahmmeter has been on the "D" side for about 2 weeks now...(only driving the truck around short-range for lunch break daily to keep it from neglect) and now, in the dark of night, I realize that I can barely see my dash lights! I'm on my third alternator in a year and some change. (This one's no more than 4-5 months old) I've suspected the wiring harness to the alternator for some time, since it comes and goes. Not thinking that a problem in the charging system would affect ignition of a running engine, I always thought this was a separate, unrelated problem. "Great, so I've fried another alternator and I'm running off of battery power!" is my thought (but I'm pretty sure I can make it home).
I made it about 7-10 miles and it started to die on me again -the original problem!!!!! (lots of profanity at this point) I take it easier on the gas, because I notice that it wants to die under acceleration. I call up a friend who lives nearby and try to make it to his house. Fortunately, I made it, but with the engine cutting out and back in, over and over (but never actually dies completly this time! -which is new, but I figure it's because it's much cooler at night) When I get there I pop the hood and check the carb...It's completely full of gas! And then, my battery goes completely dead.

...so now my truck's over at my friends house, the battery's on the charger, and my intention is to replace the alternator monday after work, and try to drive it back to the shop, so I can take a sledge hammer and beat the ever-lasting crap out of it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Ignition coil??

AAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

A bad electrical connection will be worse when the temperature is high. Ignition modules need a certain voltage to work properly. Some will quit below 10Volts.

How is your voltage regulator?
Check all the connectons on the voltage regulator, alternator, ignition module, and coil.

 

Voltage regulator, Ignition coil, and alternator were all replaced at the same time.... about 4-5 months ago

 

I'd be real tempted to try an hei set up. bypass the duraspark completely...bu thats 100 bucks or so for a test.

 

And get a one wire alternator and bypass all the wiring!

 

Seriously guys, I'm not going to deviate from the stock setup. My stock setup has worked just fine for 9 years. This truck is my daily driver, and my backup transportation already needs some work. Every extra minute this truck sits, I'm getting screwed. I know it's got to be a simple thing causing my problems.

So, here we go again....I've replaced the following:

Fuel filter
Fuel pump
(fuel lines seem to be clear)
Rebuilt the carb (and double checked the needle valve)
Ignition module
Distributor

...and the following were new 4-5 months ago:

Alternator
Ignition Coil
Regulator

...but, my alternator has just gone bad again(could be crappy autozone reman though)!
Engine runs great and has a lot of life left in it, but I'm getting desperate here(and tired of sitting on the side of the road...) Really don't want to get rid of it!!

 

Assuming the new parts you put in are good I would have to start wondering about the wiring harness. When it dies and won't run maybe check the power and ground to the coil and the ignition module and maybe the sense lines from the distributer to the module. Just a thought.

 

Agreed, that is the reason that I suggested a one wire alternator. That old harness could be a source of shorts and/or bad connections.

Have the old alternator tested before replacing it. Are the diodes shorted or open? These fail for a reason.

 

ditto the wire harness. you've narrowed it down. this is what i've done in the past the numerous times it happened to me. Once, new to me truck, i had the tank switch to aux and the aux tank was taken out....the fuel flow when dead found that prob...apparently it will pull just enough through the valve to run a while then go out then work then...never thought to check the switch...derrr


have a circuit tester with you when you die on the road.

to make sure it isn't fuel, disconnect the fuel line when it dies and check for flow or put an inline fuel pressure guage. Only way to really check for fuel problems is when it's dead. Push compressed air back through the fuel line in case it clogs at tank.

Check the wires at junctions my current set up has been spliced to bypass a bad connection.

I didn't mean to implode on your wish to remain stock...there are definite advantages to that to include the auto retard when starting.

 

Here's the latest. (please dont move me to another forum) Just got the new alternator, ignition coil and regulator (just in case), installed them. Fired it up. -no charge. jiggled my connections around, Fired it up and....Full charge!
Now, this is a problem I've been having for a few months now. (no charge, jiggle harness, charge!) Obviously, I have a break in the Alt. harness somewhere. BUT, I now seriously think that this is an unrelated problem to my current engine dying prob -Because my engine only started dying recently. (I'll pursue it later in the electrical forums, unless y'all think a broken wire in the charging circuit can spontaneously kill a running engine, which is why i've even mentioned it)

But what about the dry float bowl I found the other day??? That points to fuel. That was the first time I actually got to check something while the engine was dead. and I have no doubt that's what made it die that particular time. Hence, the fuel pump replacement.
But....As I drove back from the shop that night, she started dying again (but not completely) When luckily, I made it to where I was going, I popped the carb, and had a full float bowl! (Well, it didn't die, and it was cool out...)

So, back to the present...I successfully made it back to the shop today with the truck (new dizzy's pinging under very heavy load...*sigh* ...time to screw with the vac advance) but aside from that -no dying. But, it was too cool outside, and a 15 min drive aint a long enough time for it to act up.

Here's a new thought:
I have a short (3-4 in) piece of rubber fuel line that connects the metal fuel line to the fuel filter. There is a sharp turn in it that looks like a kink. It has always been this way since I bought the truck 9 years ago. I've never had a problem with it.

Is it possible that the rubber has gone soft over the years, and has deteriorated so much, that it actually closes off fuel flow in intense heat?
That, combined with a weak fuel pump (now replaced with new) could have caused it?


It's not particularly a desire to stay truly stock or anything. I just want to find the problem and fix it, rather than deviate from a stock setup that's been running great for 30 years. I have no problems whatsoever with some of the awesome aftermarket setups on the market...but anyhoo

I'm totally with you on the circuit tester (got one in my truck at the ready)

 

BTW, definitely not clogged at the tank

 

Have you used any fuel system cleaner? Some of these may be harmful to rubber parts, especially if they contain alcohol. Also have you started using gasohol recently?

Is that hose approved fuel line? If not it should be replaced with fuel line that will stand up to alcohol.