a/c problem on 99 F250
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a/c problem on 99 F250
I need a wiring diagram for the a/c system on a 99 F250.
I can't get the compressor to come on even when I jumper across the low pressure cycling switch even though I have voltage to it.
I can run voltage to the clutch coil & the clutch works.
I have also tried disconnecting the switch on the high pressure line, which I think is the high pressure cutout, but I can't get voltage to the clutch.
Thanks for any help provided.
I can't get the compressor to come on even when I jumper across the low pressure cycling switch even though I have voltage to it.
I can run voltage to the clutch coil & the clutch works.
I have also tried disconnecting the switch on the high pressure line, which I think is the high pressure cutout, but I can't get voltage to the clutch.
Thanks for any help provided.
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Joined: Feb 2004
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From: Orlando, FL
Although I do not have an answer for your problem, I have the same problem with my 99 F250 SuperDuty 5.4L. Clutch will come on with direct voltage applied to clutch directly, but not by jumping at the switch. I've even wondered if it a wiring problem from the panel on back. A wiring diagram or a heads up would be greatly appreciated.
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I had the clutch working at one time but then later it kicked out & wouldn't kick back in, even though I bypassed the cycling switch. The reason it originally kicked out I think was because it was low on freon. Then it's quite likely that it wouldn't kick back in due to air gap. It's on my son in law's truck & I havn't had a chance to check that out yet. Will do so soon & let everybody know.
Thanks
Thanks
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I'm kind of new to this a/c compressor stuff, so this might be a dumb question. Could the a/c work fine for years and then something change with the air gap and cause the a/c not to work anymore? How can you tell if you have a wide air gap and what would cause this to happen?
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Blairsville,Ga
ther sould be a 020 to 022 gap between plate and clutch easiest way I found to check it is to turn air on if clutch does not engage smack it with a pieceof wood bout size of broom handle,if it then engages then remove some shims
yes it does come on as system ages
yes it does come on as system ages
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Hey everybody, I got it fixed!! Sure 'nuff it was the air gap in the clutch assy. Gap was 'bout .050/.060 & it would ittermittenly kick in but more often than not it would not after it once cycled. Took one spacer out & that left it 'bout right.(.025). FWIW you can test this with just the key & A/C on/off without running engine.
Thanks again everybody--This is a great FORUM & this is my first time to use it & it paid off.
Thanks again everybody--This is a great FORUM & this is my first time to use it & it paid off.
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There was only one on mine . It is about the size of a #10 flat washer. It's real easy to lose it as you remove the front plate. Mine was stuck on the shaft ,but it could be back in the c'bore of the removed clutch front plate.
It's just big enough for the hold down bolt to go through it.
It's just big enough for the hold down bolt to go through it.
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On second thought, I guess if you used an 8mm bolt to push the plate off with, the washer(shim) could not be stuck up in the c'bore, but would have to be stuck on the end of the shaft or fell off as you took the plate off.
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The reason I asked is because when I was cleaning the plate that comes off (it was kinda rusty) I noticed this washer looking thing on the floor as I was spraying the plate with brake parts cleaner and wasn't sure if that was it or not. I thought it would be something bigger but I guess it makes sense. I put it back together without the shim, and wamo! A/C is working like a champ.
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Everytime the magnetic clutch engages there is a little wear involved & as a matter of time & number of cycles involved the air gap gets slightly bigger & bigger 'til it finally gets too big a gap & magnet just "ain't" strong enuff to pull it in.
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